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mtnbiker3000  
#31 Posted : Thursday, October 18, 2012 3:16:22 PM(UTC)
mtnbiker3000

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Bump... These are great questions I am really interested in the answers...
Nitro itch  
#32 Posted : Wednesday, March 6, 2013 5:15:26 AM(UTC)
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Regardless of which motor and transmission I swap into this machine ( 2 different good used transmissions and 3 different good used motors ) this 10yr WP will draw 12 ton13 amps when agitating with large load. Tub and basket clean and nothing jamming them, basket tube to shaft clean and lubed, and waterpump clear.
During spin cycle motor draws 8 to 9 amps with same load of clothes.
Also, if these motors are thermally protected, at what temp should it trip?
Each of these motors get too hot to touch, yet still keep running at 12 amps. There is no smell of electrical motor failure. And this process has been done outside with cabinet removed and ambient temp is 65 degrees.
Do these motors have a "service factor" amp draw? If so its not stated on motor along with their rating.
Perhaps I'm not getting a good connection to motor during agitation?? If so I m thinking of bypassing timer and wire harnest to motor switch,,,,but which wire combinations should I send a direct power source to for not hi and lo agitations?
Any help or thoughts is appreciated.
fairbank56  
#33 Posted : Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:13:50 AM(UTC)
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2-speed or 3-speed motor?
Nitro itch  
#34 Posted : Wednesday, March 6, 2013 12:03:06 PM(UTC)
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2speed.....it draws only 8 to 9amps when in low agitation.
fairbank56  
#35 Posted : Wednesday, March 6, 2013 2:11:11 PM(UTC)
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For high speed on a 2-speed motor connect hot to motor blue wire and yellow wire. Connect neutral to motor white and capacitor. Remove red wire coming from timer from capacitor and connect there (to the capacitor). For low speed, hot to motor orange and yellow.

I don't know the trip temp rating for the thermal overload but the motor is rated for max ambient surrounding air temp of 40°C (104°F) and winding insulation rating of 130°C (266°F). The thermal switch is mounted on the frame right next to the motor switch.

Eric
unlandano  
#36 Posted : Friday, July 5, 2013 9:06:21 PM(UTC)
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unlandano  
#37 Posted : Monday, July 8, 2013 3:02:29 AM(UTC)
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unlandano  
#38 Posted : Friday, July 12, 2013 8:38:39 AM(UTC)
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georgecoat  
#39 Posted : Saturday, August 29, 2015 1:20:53 PM(UTC)
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Dear richappy and other washer pros,
I have Kenmore Elite 11026922502 (about 10 years old), has been running ok, until about a year sometime cloths are quite wet after what looks like normal spin. Then I set it for additional spin and it is OK, sometime even one additional spin is needed. This problem became more frequent recently. I checked the coupler, it looked ok. I checked also clutch (it is 6 pad clutch) and after removing from washer I could move it with the finger, it moves but it does not feel loose. There was also a lot of little dark pieces inside of the clutch coming most likely from the brake shoe pads as they has been wearing off by time. The brake pads does not look thin though and I could also turn plastic cam till the brake release and rotate counter-clockwise without any problem.
My question is what should I replace if washer spins and randomly (but recently more often) cloths remain quite wet after normally looking spin.
1. Replace clutch (if yes should I install 6 pad or 3 pad, original is 6 pad).
2. Replace brake shoes? Or just grease shoe cam rollers?
3. Replace also tub suspension pads (after 10 years of use)?
Thank you for your suggestions!
Tech72  
#40 Posted : Wednesday, October 7, 2015 9:26:12 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: IvelDesigns Go to Quoted Post
maybe it's just me, but this seems pretty complicated for a person who has never worked on a washing machine before. would you agree?

if i were to call a repairman, what kind of charge should i expect to pay?

**edit**
sorry, forgot to say that i am having an issue with spin only. agitate works, drains fine, but won't spin even with one wet towel in it. there is a burning smell if we leave it, however, if you help start it by hand, it will spin up to speed on it's own.

this is in a kenmore 90 series



If it spins empty, and not with a full load, its your clutch. All thats required to repair is a few tools. If your not comfortable enough to repair it yourself, the repair usually costs around $180 to $220. All depending on the repair company used. I replace these all day long, and this is one of the most common issues with the 80 and 90 series washers.
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