This double door cabinet depth refrigerator has ice and water in the door.

I noticed the ice maker was leaking a little water and building a stalagmite of ice on the shelf below. This stalagmite grew to 4 or 5 inches in a few days. the ice maker made ice just fine....but the stalagmite of ice on the shelf below was disturbing.

I removed the ice maker and found a layer of ice on the surface of the bottom of the ice maker, under the cube tray. I allowed the ice to thaw, and the ice maker to dry thoroughly. I reinstalled the ice maker, ensuring that the connector was seated properly. Overnight, the ice make did not fill, and therefore made no ice.

I noticed the red light glowing when the freezer door is open. It blinks twice, waits a second or so, and then blinks twice again. I found that this indicates the cube bin sensor is blocked. I then depressed the sensor flap on the left side of the freezer. The red light then turned on a steady glow. I closed the freezer...still no ice the next day.

I opened the freezer door and noted the red light blinking. I depressed the sensor flap on the left side of the freezer and the red light stayed on with a steady glow. I depressed the light switch on the top of the freezer compartment, simulating the door being closed. The red light turned off...no blinking.

Since the ice maker worked fine before I uninstalled it and then reinstalled it, I figure I must have installed it incorrectly, or there is a "reboot" routine that I must activate. I unplugged the refrigerator for a half hour or so. I plugged the unit back in, the compressor started, the lights came on, but the red light for the freezer still operated the same as stated above. Is there another procedure I must do? Is the ice maker out of its "start" position? Help!!! There has to be an easy solution to this malady.

Yes, I verified that the plug for the ice maker is attached properly, and the connector contacts are all in place.

Yes, the slide switch is in the ON position.

The water inlet tube is clear.

Water dispenser in door works properly.

I downloaded the manual and went through the diagnostics. The red LED does not glow when the freezer door is opened. If I depress the freezer light switch, the one that closes when the door is closed, the red LED blinks at about a one second rate. The book says this indicates that the ice maker is in the middle of an ejection cycle. The ejection tongs are at about 10 o'clock looking at them from the refrigerator side. That is "park" I believer. But, if the ice maker is in mid cycle, how do I get it back to "start"?

Gordon

Gordon,

Pull the ice maker out far enough to remove the head cover. Do not unplug the harness.

Remove the head cover and check the voltage across the test points "L" & "N". Make sure the probes go inside at least 1/2". If the reading is about 120 VAC, short the test points "T" & "H" using an insulated piece of 14 ga wire. If the motor runs, leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Post the results.

Gene.

Gordon,

You do can watch it if you'll tape in the door switch and the flapper door.

You can determine overfilling by the size of the ice cubes.



Very possible the ice maker itself is leaking. One of possibilities is the mold heater connection to the ice maker head.

Leaking ice maker is not repairable in most cases and has to be replaced.

- The ice maker Part number: AP3182733

You are welcome Gordon.

You are absolutely right. Unfortunately a lot of people do not realize it ending up their own repairs with their hands full of unneeded parts bought by the guessing.

I'm not sure if this way will work, but there is nothing to loose and you can try.

I believe the time intervals between water feels are more or less persistent and you can do this test, counting this time first.

Gene.
P.S. If the new ice maker would not fix this problem and you purchased it from Appliance Parts Pros, then you can simply return it even if it was installed.