Thanks for the info. I never had this problem last year but it could be just getting older. The model is CSF22EYB. I can't find the exact model on the website but find models within 1 letter.

I guess a true test would be to bring this unit inside for a few days and see how it functions inside.

It seems to still be working now but the temp is maybe alittle warmer in the garage due to the temp outside.

It might be awhile it has been outside for awhile now and I need to really clean it up before I bring it inside. Good news is it is supposed to be warmer this week so if it stays working all week it might be this.

Hello, I have a the bottom freezer, built in Monogram model ZICS360NRAR and have had issues with the freezer coils frost build up. The fridge does not get cold and by reading several posts, I figured out that it's likely due to the frost covering the airway into the fridge.

I removed the back panel of the freezer and let the coil defrost; I tested the heater and got a 38ohm reading. I also tested the defrost thermometer after cooling it down in another freezer and that read 0.4ohm.

This is all new to me but I assume the above readings mean the parts are functioning properly. Now, Unfortunately i'm stuck. I don't believe my refrigerator has a defrost timer as I did not see it anywhere on the parts diagram. How can I tell what exactly needs to be replaced? (FYI we've defrosted the freezer coils manually a couple of times by removing everythin and turning the power off. However, that only lasted maybe 3-4 weeks, where the frost started building up again and causing the fridge temp to rise)

thank you...

so our fridge went from too warm....spent 400 to get the baffle control repaired...now too cold.
have a Kenmore Elite, electronic controls...had some probs getting too cold but went on vacation and everything froze SOLID while we were gone. water line apparently froze too b/c the water dispensor didn't work. turned it off for several hours then back on and it seems to be not as cold but still colder than it should be.
We've had problems with this fridge for a while and keep a thermometer in it to monitor.
we had a repair guy tell us the electronic control panel needs to be replaced (for another $365)
If this is really the problem, I would like to know if this is a reasonable solution and if I could fix it myself

You could have an intermittent defrost thermostat, or a bad evaporator thermistor. You can just replace the thermostat and check the thermistor at the J 1 connector on the motherboard.
Search the sticky "GE refrigerator (GS & PS..)" for instructions and a thermistor temp vs resistance table at the end. There is also a manual defrost test I put in there to verify defrost circuit is good.