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grenstreet  
#1 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 7:54:00 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/2/2010(UTC)
Posts: 23

Hi Everybody
I am new here but I have a real problem with my fridge. the water wont dispense from the door and the freezer is getting warm and also the fridge. we emptied the freezer and fridge and I took the back cover off the evap to expose the coils and they were frozen with some frost. I let the unit defrost overnight and in the morning I was getting water again so I started the unit up and observed. the compressor came on immediately along with the cond fan after a few min the evap fan came on and ran at high speed. after around 30 min the coils were all frosted with a light coating the color of snow and the fan slowed but continued to run for another 30 min but then stopped completely and remained stopped for about an hour while the compressor kept running and cond fan. i shut the unit down for about two hours to let the coils defrost and then restarted and repeat of the last performance. I have replaced the defrost thermostat and the adc board and still got the same results. I traced the wire from the evap fan, one goes to the defrost them and the other two go back to the fridge therm. could the fridge therm be bad and causing the evap fan to cut out or maybe something else?
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magician59  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 8:56:41 AM(UTC)
magician59

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273

If you are watching all this with the freezer door open, you are getting erroneous results. It sounds like you have a bad evaporator fan. Also, if you don't do this fairly regularly, clean the dust and lint off the condenser coil. You can lose as much as 10%-15% efficiency due to the insulation that dirt will supply to the coil.
grenstreet  
#3 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 9:18:22 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/2/2010(UTC)
Posts: 23

just confirmed that fan is bad. checked voltage at fan when it had stopped and 120 volts are present. BAD FAN, ordered new one will be here sat. thanks for help
magician59  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 9:23:29 AM(UTC)
magician59

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273

Tell us when your repair is successful.
grenstreet  
#5 Posted : Sunday, December 5, 2010 7:47:21 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/2/2010(UTC)
Posts: 23

ok ....I put the new fan in today but had to make a few adjustments because the replacement fan bracket did not mount to the old mounting holes. I used the old bracket and just replaced the motor and fan blade itself. fan is working now but seems to run slower than the old fan did when it first started up. checked the voltage and i have 120 volts with the therm closed. the old fan was rated at 3000 rpms. I cant find the rating on the new one. its woking but i am kinda dissapointed. any suggestions?
grenstreet  
#6 Posted : Sunday, December 5, 2010 12:33:49 PM(UTC)
grenstreet

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/2/2010(UTC)
Posts: 23

ok .....here is what I found after hours of playing with this thing. With the fan disconnected the volts at the yellow wire is 121v, brown wire 0v. now ,when I connect the fan and check volts while the fan is running the yellow has 100v and brown has 22v. if I hook up house current directly to the fan, it runs really fast. can anybody explain this to me. I also disconnected the therm just to eliminate it from the equation but that did not help. right now I ran a wire through the freezer wall with house current and hooked up the fan directly. at least this will get me going until I can find an answer. Also I checked all the wires that lead to the fan and they all check out for continuity and switched out the adc board but no help.
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