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Maytag LDG7500AAW Gas dryer runs but won't heat at all. Igniter lights , timer switch doesn't run down. Is this the flame sensor ? Thanks for your help.
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Originally Posted by: scolmery  Maytag LDG7500AAW Gas dryer runs but won't heat at all. Igniter lights , timer switch doesn't run down. Is this the flame sensor ? Thanks for your help.
Scolmery, If the igniter goes out and cycles back on, No, it won't be the flame sensor. It's most likely a bad set of gas valve solenoids(coils). Part number: AP3094251
You are sure, that gas is supplied to the dryer gas valve ? :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Scolmery, If the igniter goes out and cycles back on, No, it won't be the flame sensor. It's most likely a bad set of gas valve solenoids(coils). Part number: AP3094251
You are sure, that gas is supplied to the dryer gas valve ? :cool: :cool: :cool: The igniter does re-cycle back on. Gas supply and shut off valves have not been altered. Dryer stopped heating suddenly. Still think gas valve solenoids(coils) are likely problem ? Thank you for your help
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Scolmery, I have the same dryer and same problem as yours! Read my two posts from today. I have not gotten any replies, but from all my reading/research it is almost certainly the gas valve coils (like you were told) that need to be replaced. However, seems nobody has really explained why it couldn't be the radiant sensor or how to test it for sure. I'm sure these guys know what they are doing from experience, but I believe that a bad radiant sensor would cause the same symptom (no gas fire). I'm just waiting for someone to conclusively show/explain how or why the sensor is not the problem or how to test it? You will read in my posts that I tested it for continuity and voltage, but don't know what the voltage range should be, or if it should be tested for a certain range of amps? I do believe that it is the radiant sensor that recognizes that the igniter is on and then tells the coils to turn on the gas valve.....so it is certainly a link between the ignitor and gas firing. Waiting for someone to confirm or explain why I am wrong...it wouldn't be the first time!
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Originally Posted by: LesterS Scolmery, I have the same dryer and same problem as yours! Read my two posts from today. I have not gotten any replies, but from all my reading/research it is almost certainly the gas valve coils (like you were told) that need to be replaced. However, seems nobody has really explained why it couldn't be the radiant sensor or how to test it for sure. I'm sure these guys know what they are doing from experience, but I believe that a bad radiant sensor would cause the same symptom (no gas fire). I'm just waiting for someone to conclusively show/explain how or why the sensor is not the problem or how to test it? You will read in my posts that I tested it for continuity and voltage, but don't know what the voltage range should be, or if it should be tested for a certain range of amps? I do believe that it is the radiant sensor that recognizes that the igniter is on and then tells the coils to turn on the gas valve.....so it is certainly a link between the ignitor and gas firing. Waiting for someone to confirm or explain why I am wrong...it wouldn't be the first time! Lester, Scolmery, Lester is almost on the money. The radiant sensor(flame switch, flame sensor) is a basic switch, has an open or closed circuit. and usually works or doesn't work 99% of the time. I think, I may have replaced one or two for a malfunction, in all the years I've been doing this. When you start the dryer, voltage is supplied to the complete circuit, and the sensor circuit is closed, As the glow bar igniter inceases in intensity and produces 2000 to 2500 degrees, the radiant sensor opens, allows a path to ground(shortest / quickest path) and the coils on the gas valve open and gas is released, the gas hits the hot igniter and ignites. If the radiant sensor was bad you would have, either no glow from the igniter, or the sensor would not turn off and release the gas. The fact that the glow bar continues to cycle off and on, tells me the radiant sensor is working proper, and the coils are bad, wont release the gas. I hope this helps to understand the operation. :) :) :)
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awesome explanation Joe!! thanks so much!! Yep, I get it now!! It should show continuity until the igniter glows, then open (no continuity or infinity on the scale).....simple switch! That clarifies its operation! Wondering if you've ever seen an igniter light up, but not hot enough to open the radiant sensor....that would create some head scratching troubleshooting!
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Originally Posted by: LesterS awesome explanation Joe!! thanks so much!! Yep, I get it now!! It should show continuity until the igniter glows, then open (no continuity or infinity on the scale).....simple switch! That clarifies its operation! Wondering if you've ever seen an igniter light up, but not hot enough to open the radiant sensor....that would create some head scratching troubleshooting! Lester, It does happen, I've seen it. Usually after a new install or a move, the dryer get's bounced around and has a hairline crack in the igniter, it works a couple of times fine, as the expansion from the glow bar cycling increases, the ignition becomes more intermittent, you have to look for a white spot on the igniter coil(black part). ;) ;) ;)
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Thanks both of you , much appreciated. scolmery
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Originally Posted by: scolmery Thanks both of you , much appreciated. scolmery You're quite welcome, Let us know how you made out. :) :) :)
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I have the same problem everything works ignitor glows hot no gas if I just put the two leads together off the flame sensor and by pass the switch with same result I know that semnsor is good. Correct?
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