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I recently replaced our ice maker because it stopped dumping ice. I assumed the problem was a bad motor, 6 yrs old and no problems until now. Now with the new ice maker in place for almost 20 hrs, there is still no water in the ice maker. I have good water to the door dispenser. Could it be a bad supply valve or solonoid and if so where is it located? Thanks for any help.:confused:
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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Just for giggles, make sure the wire connector is securely snapped in place. Then, pull the face cap off the icemaker. take a short piece of wire (#10 solid copper is perfect) and short between the holes marked "T" and "H". The large gear on the front should begin to turn slowly. Keep the jumper in place for at lease 1/3 of a complete rotation, then remove. You may have to depress the door switch for this to work. Let us know what happens. [COLOR="Red"]Make sure the part of the wire you touch is well insulated. There'll be 120VAC going through it.[/COLOR]
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Rank: Member
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Okay, I did the jumper wire between "T" and "H" and nothing happened. I also tried the old ice maker just for grins and got the same response--nothin. Any other ideas, sure would be appreciated. By the way, thanks for such a quick reply. I do appreciate it. Eddie
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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It sounds like you're not getting power to the icemaker connection. If you have a meter, you can check by placing the probes in the holes marked "L" and "N". you're looking for 120VAC.
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Rank: Member
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Guess I have a voltage problem, not readidng any voltage. When I go back to the plug I oly get around 50vac on the black and white wire that feeds the motor. Thanks again, Eddie
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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This is probably a control board issue.
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Rank: Member
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I also checked the voltage at the solonoid valve that supplies water to the ice maker and it too has low voltage.:confused: This is starting to sound bad...... Eddie
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Rank: Member
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Does that mean a service tech?
Update: I talked to a tech over the phone and he convinced me it was probably the infra-red circuit board in the freezer, which shuts the ice maker off when the bin gets full or the freezer door is open. I installed new circuit boards yesterday 3/08/10 and have a working ice maker now. Thanks for all the help, I only wish I would have found your web sight before I bought the new ice maker. Guess I have a spare ice maker now. Thanks again, Eddie
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: eclynn  Does that mean a service tech?
Update: I talked to a tech over the phone and he convinced me it was probably the infra-red circuit board in the freezer, which shuts the ice maker off when the bin gets full or the freezer door is open. I installed new circuit boards yesterday 3/08/10 and have a working ice maker now. Thanks for all the help, I only wish I would have found your web sight before I bought the new ice maker. Guess I have a spare ice maker now. Thanks again, Eddie I have the same problem, where is the infra-red circuit board in the freezer? Thanks, AEdwards
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: aedwards I have the same problem, where is the infra-red circuit board in the freezer?
Thanks,
AEdwards The infra-red circuit board for mine was located behind the sliding switch on the right side to turn the ice maker off/ on. The other side of the freezer is where the other board is, the receiving side of the infra-red. Both boards are inside the freezer. The boards came as a set when I ordered them. Good Luck.
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