Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER4634EQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER4634EQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.comHave you flipped the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually ripping the breaker. The heater requires the full 240 volts while the motor and timer will run on only half the line.
Better yet measure it with a meter. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts.
Could be the thermal heater's thermal fuse is blown.
This is the one on the heater Item 6 in Section 3.
If it is blown check to ensure you have good air flow out of the unit and the interior seals are good. Also clean/check your vent system.
You are actually pulling air over the heating coils, through the drum and then pushing it out the vent. The operating (cycling) thermostat is on the blower so if you are sucking in room air in the heater path to blower, it sees a cooler temperature and runs the heater hot.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
