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The dryer wont turn on. I unpluged and pluged it back on, control panel lights up, and made sure door closed and press start/pause button, nothing happens. Help
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Joined: 3/31/2008(UTC) Posts: 322
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Originally Posted by: makrani12 ![Go to Quoted Post Go to Quoted Post](/Themes/yafvision/icon_latest_reply.gif) The dryer wont turn on. I unpluged and pluged it back on, control panel lights up, and made sure door closed and press start/pause button, nothing happens. Help This is assuming that the voltage at your outlet is ok. Something I would want to check are the thermal fuses. There is one on the where the heating element is located and one in the blower housing area. Now keep in mind if this is the culprit there is a "reason why" one of them failed. The one by the element usually fails because either the heat element coil is shorted to its metal case or the high limit thermostat is not cycling out properly. The one in the blower housing can go out because of an airflow issue maybe even due to a striped blower wheel. Although an airflow issue can cause either one of then to go out. You also need to closely examine the vent especially before putting the dryer back in service after its been repaired. (With the dryer unplugged) These fuses would have to be checked using an ohmmeter. If these both check ok then other electrical testing on the dryer will have to be done.
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Here are your parts Motor drive replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE5500AYQ | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a service manual http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16023110.pdfIf you have the correct voltage 240 volts from L1 to L2 and 120 volts from L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral then odds are high that one of the thermal fuses has blown. Item 11 in the Heater section and Item 10 in the Motor section. Best to unplug the unit and check them with a meter. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. If a thermal fuse is blown be sure to give the interior a good cleaning including the blower wheel. Also clean and check your vent system. |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/14/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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Thanks for replying back. I havent tried anything yet but i really appreciate. I also noticed that sometimes the dryer console showed 18 for no reason. So i unplugged it and plug it back and would go away for couple of days. So is that a code or just a coincedence. Please let me know.
Tony
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