Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

20 Pages<1234>»
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
tom_mn  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, August 19, 2009 5:45:47 AM(UTC)
tom_mn

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/18/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

It's a Whirlpool LGR5634AWO
Gene  
#12 Posted : Wednesday, August 19, 2009 10:58:14 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
The first thing I would do is check the gas valve coils as described in one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros...er-runs-but-no-heat.html

- The coil kit Part number: AP3094251
tom_mn  
#13 Posted : Saturday, August 22, 2009 9:09:12 AM(UTC)
tom_mn

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/18/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

Gene:

I located the coils with some difficulty and they tested this way:

2 prong: 1100
3 prong: 1050 and 1600

I don't really trust the analog ohmmeter even though I zeroed it out.

I tested the thermal fuse and it is shot, so I will order one of those, along with a thromostat.
Gene  
#14 Posted : Saturday, August 22, 2009 8:01:44 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Keep us posted.

Gene.
tom_mn  
#15 Posted : Sunday, August 23, 2009 5:24:24 PM(UTC)
tom_mn

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/18/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

I replaced the thermal fuse and everything seems to run fine. I cleaned about a full paper grocery bag full of lint out of the exhaust system (about 14 ft long). Now when the dryer runs the outside flue flap pops all the way open. Before it only opened about half way when the dryer ran.

Hope that is the end of the problem. We don't really use the dryer much except in the winter so it won't be till then when it gets a lot of use that I know for sure the trouble is over.
clayn  
#16 Posted : Sunday, November 1, 2009 9:00:16 AM(UTC)
clayn

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Gene,

I have the same problem with a GE gas dryer 1 yr old model# DSXH43GF1WW. The parts diagragms don't show where the Thermal fuse is located or what it looks like. They also don't show what the flame sensor looks like. I can do all of the continuity checks, but I want to know what to take apart first and what to look for. Any Advise or part numbers would be appreciated. Thanks
Gene  
#17 Posted : Sunday, November 1, 2009 9:11:43 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: clayn Go to Quoted Post
Gene,

I have the same problem with a GE gas dryer 1 yr old model# DSXH43GF1WW. The parts diagrams don't show where the Thermal fuse is located or what it looks like. They also don't show what the flame sensor looks like. I can do all of the continuity checks, but I want to know what to take apart first and what to look for. Any Advise or part numbers would be appreciated. Thanks


The thermal fuse (aka a safety thermostat) is shown as #1233 on the diagram #2. The flame sensor is shown as #1379 on the diagram #1.

- The safety thermostat Part number: AP3418852
c22jrc  
#18 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 4:07:34 PM(UTC)
c22jrc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/10/2009(UTC)
Posts: 7

Glad to find this site!
I'm having the same problem. I've checked the coils, safety fuse both thermostats and all appear good. I measured resistance on the flame sensor at 680 ohms and the igniter at 94 ohms. I checked the voltage at the igniter and it only measured 28 volts. Tracing the wire it came from the motor. Wish I had a schematic!!! As someone else mentioned the timer does not move. The dryer had been running for at least 30 min. we I found there was no heat and the timer had not moved???
Any help greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks
Jeff
Gene  
#19 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:17:36 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Quote:
...measured resistance on the flame sensor at 680 ohms...


Jeff,

If you did it the right way (removed at least one wire from the sensor) then the flame sensor is the culprit. Normal reading should be close to 0 Ohms.

- The flame sensor Part number: AP2910747
Part number: AP2910747



Here is the Wiring sheet for the dryer.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LGR7646EQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
c22jrc  
#20 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:51:55 PM(UTC)
c22jrc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/10/2009(UTC)
Posts: 7

Gene,
WOW such service!! Thanks for the schematic!
Is it safe to jumper around the flame sensor to be sure its bad?

Thanks Agian :) !!!!

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Jeff,

If you did it the right way (removed at least one wire from the sensor) then the flame sensor is the culprit. Normal reading should be close to 0 Ohms.

- The flame sensor Part number: AP2910747
Part number: AP2910747



Here is the Wiring sheet for the dryer.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LGR7646EQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
Users browsing this topic
Guest (17)
20 Pages<1234>»
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.