Forgot to say: I hear no noise, but a few clicks I interpret as attempts at motion.
Thank you Andy no comp required. I’m just an owner trying to help other owners. If you can’t rotate the wash basket CCW then it sounds like the Outer Tub bearings are seized. The wash basket should rotate CCW with ease in the CCW/spin direction. Do you hear any drive belt screech if you put the machine in Spin Only cycle?
My next step would be to remove the front cover and see if you can rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW the Spin direction. It will take a few turns of the Clutch Pulley to compress the Large Wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley. Once under tension the Wash Basket should begin to rotate CCW.
I would then rotate the Clutch Pulley CW the Wash/Agitate direction. You will be on the floor but you can have someone watch the tumblers with the washer lid up and they will see the tumblers rotate.
Let me know if you decide troubleshoot further. If the Outer Tub bearings are seized they can be bought for around $12 to $16 for a pair. Other parts, Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring around $30 range. It’s a job and could be complicated by seized Spinner Support bolts. I’m an average DIY person with no special mechanical skill sets but I have replaced the Outer Tub bearing on my Series 10 machine (you have a series 11 machine which is the first two digits of your s/n). I have worked with several forum members on other DIY forums to rebuild the Outer Tub…………Dick
Thanks Dick. I hear no screech in spin only - it just doesn’t spin up. There are a couple of clicks, and the display shows ascending numbers to “48” then back to “00”. I will try your suggestions and report back.
The clutch pulley rotates with resistaance and groaning, and the tumblers rotate in both directions (CCW and CW) but the tub does not. There seems to be a slight “give” in the clutch pulley about once a rotation in the CCW direction.
To be clear: the clutch rotates CW (as seen from above) with resistance but no noise except for a “pop” about once each full turn. The clutch pulley rotates with lots of groaning in the CCW direction. The tumblers rotate in both cases but the tub does not.
Thanks Dick,
Andy
Andy,
Just some quick feedback I’m at work right now so I have to keep it short.
It sounds like the Outer bearings if not seized are draging big time. I feel its time to drop the clutch pulley out and inspect. I believe you will find much rust a sign of a Tub Seal leak.
You have another machine up and running and if you want to go forward I feel it’s time start a tear down to remove the outer tub.
You have the front cover off so remove the drive belt, just walk it off the Clutch Pulley. Once off the Wash Basket should rotate in both directions. I want to get a feel if the wash basket rotational resistance with the drive belt removed.
If its necessary to replace the Outer Tub bearings, (at this point of troubleshooting I believe you will) Tub Seal and Tranny O-ring the cost should be under $60. The Outer tub bearings are 6207-2RS you would need two. Google for best price. You can get the Tub Seal Tranny o-ring thru this site. I just want you to get a feel for cost. I can help you with part numbers.
Quick Google and I found the 6207-2RS bearings for under $6 each no shipping cost info…Dick
Dick,
I took the pulley off this morning, but there is no difference in the wash tub state. It won’t rotate, and the clutch pulley is still groaning.
Yes, I do have another washer working. I’d like to do a good overhaul of the machine. Do you have or know where I can find a list of the parts and part numbers?
Thanks,
Andy
Parts;
Qty 1 Tub Seal AP4035323
Qty 1 O-ring seal AP4034167
Qty 2 6207-2RS Bearing 35x72x17 Sealed
There is a Maytag specialty (Locking Ring and Spanner wrench) to remove the 1.75” spinner nut. I impacted mine off. I have a ½” air impact tool and a quick run to Tractor Supply for a cheap 1.75” socket. I did use the Locking Nut/Spanner for reassembly but I feel you can lock down the Spinner Support and just use a 1.75” socket to torque down. I used no Torque Wrench just snug the hardware down.
You will need the impact tool to remove the Spinner Support bolts page 45 of the SM. I recommend when you get to that step you soak them good with PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst. Even with that and Liquid Wrench for two days I sheared off one of the six Spinner Bolts. I ended up taking the Spinner Support to a local machine shop and had SS Heli-Coil inserts put in all six bolt holes.
Do you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual? There are some omissions (holes) in the manual like on Tumbler removal. The SM doesn’t call out the Torx driver size required to remove the retaining screw which is a Number 20 Torx driver.
As you start the tear down I’ll try to answer any questions with my limited experience and we have the knowledge of AR techs on this board. I have only done this once……That’s my disclaimer…..
Can you give me a quick e-mail. My e-mail is in my Vcard under my profile. I have some additional doc’s for you.
Going to the real job now. I work Tue thru Sat 1600 to 0030 East Coast. I will follow up with you. I think we should start a new post for this so we aren’t sending out post updates from this thread. Maybe call it FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement.
Dick
dh1200s or anyone else please.
I am new here & I need help with my washer.
It started about 9 months ago, it would get to the final spin cycle and never balance out. Then by its self, it was working again. Now, it will not spin up to speed and get all the water out of the load. The pump does work (no staning water in the bottom) it goes through all the wash cycles no problem. When it gets to the final spin, no matter what it can never balace out.
Info on the washer;
Maytag Neptune (front loader)
model # MAH4000AWW
serial # 63724671ZB
style (Y) Y7909201
It has had all the factory upgrades and fixes done back in 2007. I was wondering if it is a sensor (I think there is 3 total, 2 push switches and 1 inertia type???) that is bad, or maybe the top springs and/or bottom struts are getting loose, or if the water balance ring is bad (it was replace too in 2007)??
I am mechanically inclined & can work on this with some instruction. I am on a near $0.00 budget to fix this. I can not afford to call someone out.
Thank you in advance,
Jay M.
Jay,
I’m an owner of the FAV6800A TL so I can’t help on your machine.
Start a new post with all your machine info and failure info and I’m sure someone will jump in to help you.
[quote=dh1200s;425029]Jay,
I’m an owner of the FAV6800A TL so I can’t help on your machine.
Start a new post with all your machine info and failure info and I’m sure someone will jump in to help you.[/quote]
Thanks & I will do that!
Dick:
Putting back together the spinner support - did an outer tub bearing replacement, tub seal, etc. Can you tell me how snug the spinner bolt on the spinner assembly should be? Shoud the spinner support rotate? Thanks. Bob
[quote=bobdicks;430116]Dick:
Putting back together the spinner support - did an outer tub bearing replacement, tub seal, etc. Can you tell me how snug the spinner bolt on the spinner assembly should be? Shoud the spinner support rotate? Thanks. Bob[/quote]
Hey Bob,
The SM on page 19 top left states 64 to 80 ft lbs. I used no torque wrench just snugged it down. Yes the Spinner support should rotate. Do you have any binding? The Spinner Support is riding in the Outer Tub bearings you replaced.
Did you follow this post for your work? FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
Did you remove the old Tub Seal aleeve see on post three of that thread?
Did you replace the Spinner Support bearings with your rebuild?
Sorry for the late response I just go in from work (Tue - Sat 4pm to 0030am East Cost).
Shout back if I can help with any issues/concerns…Dick
Dick:
I snugged it down, tight enough but still allow the assembly to spin. Just finished the second load of towels - so far so good!
FYI - per your post/instructions, I changed the clutch a couple of times over the past few years. The rust the last time was real bad, so I opted for the bearing and tub seal replacement. Either that or shell out $2000 for a new set. I purchased this set in 2004, and checked the paperwork. To my surprise, the outer tub was under warranty for 10 years. I called Maytag, asked them to send a replacement as I was going to fix it myself. It arrived today w/ bearings and tub seal pre-installed. I tore down the machine and reassembled w/ the new tub. However, the bottom of the new tub that accepts to the flanges on the clutch was redesigned and the clutch didn’t set right. Fortuneately, I had purchased bearings, tub seal and tranny seal just in case the new tub didn’t work. I ended up rebuilding the old tub. So far so good.
Thanks for your help. I have 4 kids and a lot of laundry - really appreciate the great advice.
Bob
Bob,
Great job on your rebuild.
I have never heard of Whirlpool/Maytag doing anything like that. Three years ago I got them to send me a Control Board but it was a real pain.
I know the Outer Tub, Motor and tranny per my warranty is for 10 yrs.
I will point other owners to your post and give that a try.
The new Outer Tub redesign incorporates the One-Way Upper bearing ring One-Way bearing as part of the Lower Outer Tub Bearing assembly. You would not use the Upper Bearing ring on your replacement Clutch Pulley with that new Outer Tub with no notches.
I got to give this a try and see If i can get them to send me one. That’s a $400+ part retail you got from them. 
Good Luck…Dick
Dick:
Do you happen to know the part number of the clutch for the redesigned tub? I will probably need it in the future if my “old” tub bearings fail.
Also, when I called Maytag for the replacement, I only told them that the old outer tub failed and was leaking. I did not speak specifically to the tub seal leak or bearings. Good luck.
Thanks. Bob
I use this Clutch Pulley p/n [COLOR=#000000]25001169 used for all FAV6800A/FAV9800A original Outer Tub and your new redisgined Outer Tub. I find it for under $80 + shipping. For you new Outer Tub you don’t use the Upper Bearing ring above the Clutch Pulley. That’s the only difference. That Upper Bearing ring functionality is now a combined bearing assembly in the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly. Here is what it looks like;[/COLOR]
0207_2RS pic 1.JPG (15.0 KB)
0207_2RS pic 2.JPG (12.7 KB)
0207_2RS pic 3.JPG (15.4 KB)
0207_2RS pic 4.JPG (21.7 KB)
[quote=gowest4552;162863]Back to dh1200s from gowest4552
Dick, I followed your tread and advice and instructions to the “T” and every thing worked perfectly - just as you said.
NO STRUTS NEEDED
I FIXED IT FOR EXACTLY FREE Thanks to you.
Let me run through this.
I copied all mine, and your, treads/correspondance & pasted in " MY DOCUMENTS". Then I down loaded the PDF to “MY DOCUMENTS” from ‘Maytag’ (clicked on where you said) in the thread.
I printed out the sheets of YOUR reply’s.
I printed out page 46 and page 47 from Maytag PDF.
I read your advice over and over, then started to Disasemble the Washer at 8:00pm. Had it going on wash cycle at 10:05 pm. Plus showed my wife how 1’way rollers worked & goofed a bit in between.
I turned the COUPLER – CW Then CCW and it would rotate both directions (bad).
Then I gave slipped out the coupler and gave a quick shot of WD40 on the dried out bearing. Slipped back in the coupling a quik twist and it only went in one direction (good).
Got a paper towel cleaned off all WD40 from bearing and surrounding stuff.
Worked some high quality Red Wheel Bearing grease into the bearing. Reinserted the coupler --twist, twist --still worked 1 direction (good).
Gave a lite coat grease to other slightly rusted surfaces. Reinstalled as per you instructions. ALL WORKS GREAT AS OF NOW.
COST = $0.00 I’ve had the red grease since 2-12-2003 (I datemark everything) and I already had the WD40.
What a great Christmas present.
Thanx from Texas, as they say, You Da Man
Kenneth:D[/quote]
NOT SURE I AM DOING THIS RIGHT BUT, HOW DO YOU GET THE BELT BACK ON?
VICKY:confused:
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Hi Vicky,[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]You walk the belt back on Clutch Pulley. You can loosen the Drive Motor Bolt (page 46 of the Service Manual) to give you a bit less belt tension but it’s not very much. I put the Drive Belt on the Drive motor pulley and walk the belt on the Clutch Pulley in a CCW direction. Sort like walking a chain back on the sprocket of a bicycle if you have ever done that. It’s a lil tricky, watch you don’t pinch your fingers in the process. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]Maybe one of the repair techs can explain it better………..Dick [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
I also just stumbled onto this web site looking for advice. I tried the self diagnosis road and bought the struts and installed them without any improvement. Because of the clear posts and great pics, I had the tub out, the clutch “rebuilt” and the unit back together in under an hour. Thanks to you all that posted. I am also on a fixed income and my time is plentiful, not to mention the feeling of actually fixing something in this disposible society. Dave
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri]Good deal Dave I’m glad it worked out for you. If you had a lot of rust on the One-Way bearings in the Clutch Pulley and the Upper bearing ring if your series has the old Outer Tub design then a Tub Seal/Outer Tub rebuild may be upcoming. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Most DIY folks with some basic mechanical skill sets can get thru this ,see this link; [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][COLOR=#333333]FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]Don’t feel bad about the strut replacement. [/COLOR]Maybe the struts can be returned. [COLOR=#333333]Most owners get steered in that direction if you don’t have a good feel for the the root cause of unbalance errors with the machine. Shout if you have other issues with the machine and I will try to help………..Dick [/COLOR]