All of a sudden, my washer will not spin because the load unbalance keeps making it reset. Small load or large about the same.
Will spin & unload water if no clothes are in it.
Any help out there?
Remove the front panel under the door and look for busted shocks.
Hey richappy,
Thank you for your quick response. I will now try find/order the parts.
Sounds like that would be the exact answer.
I’ll let you know how it turns out if that’s ok.
Thanks again,
gowest455
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The failing in Spin Cycle of the wash cycle (or a Spin Only cycle) with a dC or uC error LED display for the of the FAV6800A my machine type or an unbalance statement to the LCD display of your FAV9800A is caused by a very common Clutch Malfunction. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Do you hear/see the wash tub banging around at the start of a spin cycle? If so you have a classic clutch malfunction with the FAV9800A or FAV6800A the LED version of the machine which is my machine. Your TDS sensor is working as designed or the machine would shake itself apart if that failed with this Clutch Malfunction.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I’m an owner like you not a repair person but I know the FAV6800A/FAV9800A series very well. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Do you want to DIY the repair? You need basic mechanical skill sets to perform Clutch Maintenance or replacement. I would estimate you will drop $300 plus if you call in a repair service that is knowledgeable on the machine series and understand what is causing the unbalance error condition. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]A repair service will not clean up and re-lube the One-Way clutches/bearings in the Clutch Pulley assembly it’s just not cost effective for a repair service… but it is for the DIY’er. Also can you let us know what the first two digits of your serial number i.e. 10,11,12,13,…up to 17. That is your series number of your machine and may tell me if your machine series will use the upper One-Way roller clutches bearing ring. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If you are the least bit handy you can fix the issue it’s just a tight work area. I have a full Clutch maintenance/Clutch replacement process write up. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I can post that process on this site. Let me know what direction you wnat to go. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]This is an easy low cost fix if the One-Way Roller Clutches can be cleaned up. If they can’t I recommend a replacement clutch from this site [COLOR=#0000ff]AP4310552[/COLOR]. I know so many of the FAV9800A/FAV6800A ($1K) machines end up trashed for a very easy cost effective repair. You will need the Service Manual fo the machine it’s on the web.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Forum Mod is OK to post link to the Service Manual for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A on this board?[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[COLOR=#000000][SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Dick[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR]
Trust me it’s not the front struts.
Hello Dick,
Yes, tub bangs at start.
The first 2 digits of Serial # is 15 (whole SN is 15657132ga)
Do you know how to check the shocks to see if they are up to par? I know on car shocks you can tell good from bad very easily.
I did go to sevice manual and downloaded it. "Thanks.
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri][COLOR=#000000]And this quote from you:[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri][COLOR=#000000]"If you are the least bit handy you can fix the issue it’s just a tight work area. I have a full Clutch maintenance/Clutch replacement process write up. I can post that process on this site. Let me know what direction you wnat to go. "[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
Yes that would be great to have the Clutch maintenance process writeup.
I am totally knew to this webb site stuff, but it seems great if I can master it.
I am 70 years old but used to do a lot of this sort of cars/appliance tinkering - although my profession was Construction electrician.
Lastly, I am keeping some of my grandkids thru Christmas/New Years school break so am slow to respond and getting to work on it.
Thank You so much for the help.
Kenneth gowest4552
[quote=dh1200s;162282][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The failing in Spin Cycle of the wash cycle (or a Spin Only cycle) with a dC or uC error LED display for the of the FAV6800A my machine type or an unbalance statement to the LCD display of your FAV9800A is caused by a very common Clutch Malfunction. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Do you hear/see the wash tub banging around at the start of a spin cycle? If so you have a classic clutch malfunction with the FAV9800A or FAV6800A the LED version of the machine which is my machine. Your TDS sensor is working as designed or the machine would shake itself apart if that failed with this Clutch Malfunction.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I’m an owner like you not a repair person but I know the FAV6800A/FAV9800A series very well. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Do you want to DIY the repair? You need basic mechanical skill sets to perform Clutch Maintenance or replacement. I would estimate you will drop $300 plus if you call in a repair service that is knowledgeable on the machine series and understand what is causing the unbalance error condition. A repair service will not clean up and re-lube the One-Way clutches/bearings in the Clutch Pulley assembly it not cost effective but it is for the DIY’er. Also can you let us know what the first two digits of your serial number i.e. 10,11,12,13,…up to 17. That is your series number of your machine and may tell me if your machine series will use the upper One-Way roller clutches bearing ring. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If you are the least bit handy you can fix the issue it’s just a tight work area. I have a full Clutch maintenance/Clutch replacement process write up. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I can post that process on this site. Let me know what direction you wnat to go. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]This is an easy low cost fix if the One-Way Roller Clutches can be cleaned up. If they can’t I recommend a replacement clutch from this site [COLOR=#0000ff]AP4310552[/COLOR]. I know so many of the FAV9800A/FAV6800A (1$K) machines end up trashed for a very easy cost effective repair. You will need the Service Manual fo the machine it’s on the web.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Forum Mod is OK to post link to the Service Manual for the FAV6800A/FAV9800A on this board?[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[COLOR=#000000][SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]Dick[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/quote]
Kenneth,
You series 15 struts will look just like mine. That machine was an internet buy for $.99 plus $25 for gas an tolls. Failing in Spin Cycle like yours. Clean up of the One-Way Roller Clutches with WD-40 and re-lube with Slick 50 One Lube and it was back in service. Total cost to repair maybe $10. I hope you can get away with a Clutch maintenance clean up. I think you will. Your series 15 machine may not use the upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring. You will see some pics below.
As I said it’s a tight work area but you do not need to remove the wash tub to remove the clutch. You can inspect the front struts when you pull the front cover off. With the front cover off you can press them down and they should and I feel will return to level position.
Tell ya what don’t remove the cover just yet. Walk over to your FAV9800A open the lid and press the left front tub down by the bleach dispenser as far as you can and release. Did the wash tub return to level setting? Do the same for right front side? Did the wash tub return to level setting? If so your struts are OK but you can do the compression checks of the struts with the front cover off and see that they return to level non sagging set point.
I feel the best way to work on the machine is lay it down on it’s back with a 4X4 (if ya don’t have a bike lift) just below where the drain line exits the machine. Have some bath towels around for any water that main drain out. With your clutch malfunction I read where you ran a Quick Spin cycle with no clothes and the cycle completed.
That’s because the slipping One-Way roller clutches that allowed the tumblers to rotate while spinning up had no clothes in the wash basket to shift off balance and the spin cycle completed… no dC or uC error code. If you think you have excess water in the machine go to page 16 of the SM and enter Service Mode then go into Board Output Test and turn on the Drain Pump until you feel the wash tub is as empty as it will get.
Here ya go;
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
With a 5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the Service Manual remove the front panel.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel.
-
Lean the washer back and blocked up in that position against a wall for a better reach angle or on the floor as discribed above. Remove the 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt. That bolt is standard thread. Or lay the machine down on the back panel as described above.
-
Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
-
Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. If either clutch spring retaining end is broken off then the clutch must be replaced. Inspect Roller Clutch bearings and clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with Slick 50 One Lube. Some machine series use an Upper Roller Clutch bearing and always a lower clutch pulley Roller Clutch bearing. My series 16 machine doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch one way bearing. These bearings are one way rotation bearings in the Clockwise direction. Make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW direction in both Roller Clutch bearings. If the Roller Clutch bearings or Spinner Shaft Coupler will not clean up with WD-40 I recommend a clutch replacement.
-
Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in the clutch hub.
-
Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
-
Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
-
Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
-
Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
I’m new to the board and not sure how to comment out my pics so 1st pic is of the Clutch Pulley exploded view (crude).
Next pics are of Clutch Pulley opend up before clean up.
I hope you have success post back with any questions. Take your time you can do this…Rich
FAV6800AWW Clutch Maint. 2.jpg (74.1 KB)
Clutch Basket showing spring.JPG (77.2 KB)
Clutch Roller Bearings.JPG (40.9 KB)
3. FAV6800AW clutch.JPG (45.0 KB)
One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.
Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate. Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.
The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction. Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.
Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.
The Control Board sees the TDS D.C. voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. In your case I guess the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. “unbalance condition?”. Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day as my most recent purchase demonstrates.
Here are the pic’s wish I knew how to comment out the pics without individual postings. Can anybody help me with that? I’m a rookie.
Dick
Spinner Shaft Coupler.JPG (43.0 KB)
One way Roller clutch Bearing plate.JPG (41.4 KB)
Back to dh1200s from gowest4552
Dick, I followed your tread and advice and instructions to the “T” and every thing worked perfectly - just as you said.
NO STRUTS NEEDED
I FIXED IT FOR EXACTLY FREE Thanks to you.
Let me run through this.
I copied all mine, and your, treads/correspondance & pasted in " MY DOCUMENTS". Then I down loaded the PDF to “MY DOCUMENTS” from ‘Maytag’ (clicked on where you said) in the thread.
I printed out the sheets of YOUR reply’s.
I printed out page 46 and page 47 from Maytag PDF.
I read your advice over and over, then started to Disasemble the Washer at 8:00pm. Had it going on wash cycle at 10:05 pm. Plus showed my wife how 1’way rollers worked & goofed a bit in between.
I turned the COUPLER – CW Then CCW and it would rotate both directions (bad).
Then I gave slipped out the coupler and gave a quick shot of WD40 on the dried out bearing. Slipped back in the coupling a quik twist and it only went in one direction (good).
Got a paper towel cleaned off all WD40 from bearing and surrounding stuff.
Worked some high quality Red Wheel Bearing grease into the bearing. Reinserted the coupler --twist, twist --still worked 1 direction (good).
Gave a lite coat grease to other slightly rusted surfaces. Reinstalled as per you instructions. ALL WORKS GREAT AS OF NOW.
COST = $0.00 I’ve had the red grease since 2-12-2003 (I datemark everything) and I already had the WD40.
What a great Christmas present.
Thanx from Texas, as they say, You Da Man
Kenneth:D
[quote=dh1200s;162489]One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.
Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate. Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.
The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction. Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.
Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.
The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. In your case I guess the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. “unbalance condition?”. Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day as my most recent purchase demonstrates.
Here are the pic’s wish I knew how to comment out the pics without individual postings. Can anybody help me with that? I’m a rookie.
Dick[/quote]
[quote=gowest4552;162276]Hey richappy,
Thank you for your quick response. I will now try find/order the parts.
Sounds like that would be the exact answer.
I’ll let you know how it turns out if that’s ok.
Thanks again,
gowest455[/quote]
Hey Again richappy,
I got a response from Member dh1200s, and Dick suggested,
IT IS NOT THE STRUTS
FIX THE 1-WAY ROLLER BEARING CLUTCH.
Since I could try the roller bearing without waiting for ordered parts, that’s what I did.
Cleaned up dried bearing grease with WD40 and regreased bearing per his instructions and the washer works perfectly.
Tear down to up & running a clothes load = 2HRs & 5 min.
The struts were standing up just fine.
Thanks anyway for advice.
gowest4552
Hi Kenneth….. Dick from Honey Brook, Pa. Nooooooooo you the man. Working with an owner like you with skill set’s makes this enjoyable and a rewarding experience.
I’m just passing along hands on info that I have gained over the past year since my FAV6800A started with the unbalance dc/uC errors.
The machine has some other issues related to the Left Hand Lid Lock. I have that well documented watch out for OD, OP,FL and maybe a FO errors down the road I’m going to paste in some pic of the Left Hand Lid Lock for future info.
I have seen a few Control Board failures, Motor Controller Failures, TDS issue with corrosion issues at the 3 pin connector, a stuck pressure switch Low/Mid contacts not releasing with an empty wash tub. I troubleshoot at Control Board level and feel very relaxed on popping the hood on the machine. I have changed out the outer tub bearings, Tub Seal and trany O-ring on a Series 10 machine. The Series 12 and above that don’t use the Upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing ring are a bit different. I haven’t done a Series 12 or above but worked with a owner on another forum and feel it is very doable.
I recommend to protect your Control Board/LCD with good surge protector as with any high value microprocessor controlled device.
I have three FAV6800A’s here. My original series 16 in the basement, A series 10 ($40) in the basement and the $.99 most recent internet purchase a series 17 machine which is now my everyday machine. That machine looked like it was just delivered from HD. No mold in the tub, no rust around the washer top and the One-Way Roller clutches were pristine. The Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) rotated/slipped CCW and U know what that will do….big time dC/uC errors. Did what you did and back in service. I have many parts I got cheap all that work in my test bed FAV6800A.
If your LCD console ever fails I feel we could convert it to a LED flavor with no issues. I have not been able to acquire a used LCD console. I base that on the wiring diagrams for both flavors of the machine.
I have the schematic’s in in PDF format for the series, .PNG files are out on the WWW just hard to find. Let me know if you want them.
I’m an Electronics Technician by training with years of craft skills gained in the Telecom Ind. The machine is a hobby….. I know I got to get a life.
Have a good one…..Dick
I tried to attach some Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issue pics. The process stalls I will try later. Take care.
Hello again Dick,
Good news & not so good news-that ends well. (So far)
My Maytag mde9800ayw Electric Dryer developed a loud clank clank. (not so good news) One of the TUMBLER BAFFLES had the screws loosening up and it sounded like you were drying a load of bricks.
The good news is, I used your Maytag lead to find a PDF for a dryer.
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023110.pdf
I could not figure out how in the world to loosen up the top. On page 5-1 & 5-2 of the manual there’s the answer.
I never would have figured out how to get it apart if not for this site, and you and Maytags info.
No telling how much I would be paying someone to tighten up two screws.
If I can figure out how to edit my profile & get my email address on there, I want to be able to email / contact you and maybe others. This is great.
Thanks a million again,
Kenneth
gowest4552
[quote=dh1200s;162917]Hi Kenneth….. Dick from Honey Brook, Pa. Nooooooooo you the man. Working with an owner like you with skill set’s makes this enjoyable and rewarding experience.
I’m just passing along hands on info that I have gained over the past year since my FAV6800A started with the unbalance dc/uC errors.
The machine has some other issues related to the Left Hand Lid Lock. I have that well documented watch out for OD, OP,FL and maybe a FO errors down the road I’m going to paste in some pic of the Left Hand Lid Lock for future info.
I have seen a few Control Board failures, Motor Controller Failures, TDS issue with corrosion issues at the 3 pin connector, a stuck pressure switch Low/Mid contacts not releasing with an empty wash tub. I troubleshoot at Control Board level and feel very relaxed on popping the hood on the machine. I haven’t changed out the outer tub bearings but feel I can handle that.
I recommend to protect your Control Board/LCD with good surge protector as with any high value microprocessor controlled device.
I have three FAV6800A’s here. My original series 16 in the basement, A series 10 ($40) in the basement and the $.99 most recent internet purchase a series 17 machine which is now my everyday machine. That machine looked like it was just delivered from HD. No mold in the tub, no rust around the washer top and the One-Way Roller clutches were pristine. The Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) rotated/slipped CCW and U know what that will do….big time dC/uC errors. Did what you did and back in service. I have many parts I got cheap all that work in my test bed FAV6800A.
If your LCD console ever fails I feel we could convert it to a LED flavor with no issues. I have not been able to acquire a used LCD console. I base that on the wiring diagrams for both flavors of the machine.
I have the schematic’s in in PDF format for the series, the are out on the WWW just hard to find. Let me know if you want them.
I’m an Electronics Technician by training with years of craft skills gained in the Telecom Ind. The machine is a hobby….. I know I got to get a life.
Have a good one…..Dick
I tried to attach some Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issue pics. The process stalls I will try later. Take care.[/quote]
[COLOR=#333333]Hello Kenneth,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]I helped an owner with that dryer different forum a while back same issue. Having some basic skill sets and the right attitude goes a long way if you want to save a $ and you have both. I’m no expert I feel I’m in the same profile as you. And I can’t stop fixing the machine if it aint broke. I specialize in trouble shooting from the Control Board in and out sensing and control.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]The FAV6800A/FAV9800A takes a pretty bad rap by repair techs and owners. It definitely has design issues but what machine out there doesn’t? [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]I feel it comes down to some basic hands on some troubleshooting skill sets coupled with diag code block and error code info will get ya to a fix every time. My weak area is replacing outer tub bearings. I have never done that but I think both you and I can do it without the Tony Tool type of bearing puller.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]There are times when having spare parts is a real advantage/must have to confirm the fail point such as Control Board, Motor Controller, TDS, Left Hand Lid Lock (I just clean the corrosion up on that bad boy). And I have not seen a Motor failure with our machine model in all the many hundreds of post I have worked on. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]My e-mail is [COLOR=#0033cc]dh1200s@yahoo.com[/COLOR]. I’ll respond back to ya.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]Take care and have a good Maytag day :)…..Dick [/COLOR]
My wife’s Maytag FAV6800AWW was doing the load unbalance thing. So, I found this site 
and your thread on how to fix the problem ! All I can say is “DITTOS” to gowest4552 Thank you.
George
Glad it worked out for you…Dick
[SIZE=3]After reading many Maytag Neptune postings, I’m convinced my washer has the same clutch problem. I get the constant unbalanced load errors/shutdown, but it runs ok empty.
I would greatly appreciate any guidance on how to fix it. I’m relatively handy, have done lots of auto mechanics but not much appliance repair. Still, a $10 home fix sounds way better than a $300 tech visit that could be done with some effort and minimal know-how.
The photos are helpful, but are there schematics in PDF so I know what I’m getting into? I want to know if this is something that’s doable before I get the washer disassembled in the garage and get the wife mad at me!
Thanks so much! You can also email me at jdgavin@sbcglobal.net
[/SIZE]
[quote=jdgavin;295838][SIZE=3]After reading many Maytag Neptune postings, I’m convinced my washer has the same clutch problem. I get the constant unbalanced load errors/shutdown, but it runs ok empty.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]I would greatly appreciate any guidance on how to fix it. I’m relatively handy, have done lots of auto mechanics but not much appliance repair. Still, a $10 home fix sounds way better than a $300 tech visit that could be done with some effort and minimal know-how.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The photos are helpful, but are there schematics in PDF so I know what I’m getting into? I want to know if this is something that’s doable before I get the washer disassembled in the garage and get the wife mad at me![/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Thanks so much! You can also email me at jdgavin@sbcglobal.net[/SIZE]
[/quote]
Jason,
I see that you have e-mailed me and I’m going to respond to you shortly.
Dick
Thanks so much, Dick. Your previous postings have helped immensely.
Yes, the clutch lube or replace is fairly straightforward. But now that I think I have the leak, the tub seal and O-ring replace are a bit more dicey. (I want to stop the leak and protect my investment in the $75 new clutch). I ordered the Tub Seal and O-ring (I think $16 and $3).
I guess I’ll have to also order the special wrench and fitting, which as you said are oddly cheaper separately than when paired together as the “kit”.
I think the tub bearings in mine are okay, it spins by hand pretty freely and easily without much noise. I would like to plug the leak before it messes up the tub bearings, which I imagine would happen eventually.
I also finally found the service manual online, after much searching. It’s relatively helpful, but yeah, it does make assumptions that the reader has read and retained all of it. (For example, it will say, “Step 1: Remove tub” rather than “Step 1: Remove tub [see page X for the 12 things involved in doing so]”. Could be clearer and less threadbare, but it does help some, at least.
Still, I couldn’t find much in there for replacing the Tub Seal / O-ring.
My Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AWW is a Series 12, by the way. I know there is an engineering difference between Series 10-11 and Series 12-17.
[COLOR=#333333]Yep the SM is a reference for those that have some hands on experience with the machine. I would hold off on the purchase of the Maytag Spinner Nut removal tool. [/COLOR]
You can use a 1.75" socket and impact wrench to remove the Spinner Nut.
[COLOR=#333333]I believe you will find with the FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines Series 12 and above will not have the Upper One-Way Roller bearing ring above the clutch pulley. And I believe those Outer tubs will not have the notches for the Spinner Nut Locking ring as seen on page 47 of the SM. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]I will attach a pic of my Series 10 machine which has the tub notches.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]1st pic before Spinner Assembly is removed.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]2nd Pic of the 1.75 Spinner Nut and Spinner Assembly removed and a clear pic of the factory 6207-DU lower Outer Tub bearing.[/COLOR]
3rd Pic is the sleeve that came out of the tub seal and needs to be removed. I have the drill bit pointing to that Tub Seal sleeve that will more than likely remain on the shaft of the Spinner Support assembly. When you pick up your Tub Seal replacement you will see this sleeve.
[COLOR=#333333]You can impact off the 1.75" Spinner Nut and on reassembly with a helper. Try to lock the Spinner Assembly as shown page 45 of the SM when you install the Spinner Support assembly to tighten down the Spinner Nut. I used no torque wrench just snug down the Spinner Nut.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]Let’s start a new post maybe a subject like “FAV6800A Tub Seal replacement” and we can share info. and have input from other forum members.[/COLOR]
I have only done this on once on my Series 10 machine so I’m no expert.
I feel you will have no issues just take it slow. And as I mentioned in my e-mail response when comes time to remove the six spinner bolts to remove the wash basket/inner tub soak those bolt heads with penetrating fluid (PB Blaster) before you try to remove by hand or with an impact tool…Dick
1.75 Spinner Nut 2.JPG (45.3 KB)
2 Lower Bearing seated.JPG (46.1 KB)
1 Drill bit pointing to sleve.JPG (50.9 KB)
