My dryer runs but won’t heat.
I discovered a video (here?) that explained troubleshooting, but now I can’t find it again.
How to get the cabinet open?
What to check? (I have a volt-ohm meter)
Hi.
Please provide the complete model number. Also you listed it as the gas dryer, check that too.
Thank you.
Simon.
[quote=Simon / APP Team;739861]Hi.
Please provide the complete model number. Also you listed it as the gas dryer, check that too.
Thank you.
Simon.[/quote]
Well, I have the book that came with it, and it has a photo of the control panel that exactly matches what I have, and it’s identified as “Heavy Duty LDE9900 Computer Touch Control”. I was hoping to get some preliminary information before I have to disconnect the gas pipe and pull it out into the room, as it will block the door to the room : ( It is an LP gas dryer.
Hi.
Open the little cover at the bottom right corner and start the dryer. If the ignitor glows then most likely the control coils are bad. If not - check the ignitor’s continuity.
Unplug the dryer.
Remove two screws at the bottom of the front panel and pull it up and out to one side.
Now you have access to the ignitor, control coils, thermal fuse. First check the ignitor then the fuse(located on the blower wheel housing).
When checking the thermal fuse pull off one wire.
If all this checks OK move to the control panel, locate the heater relay(second from the left) and check the coil’s continuity.Then turn the dryer on and check if there is voltage across coil contact.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Maytag LDG9900 DRYER- GAS | AppliancePartsPros.com
Good luck. Post the results.
Simon.
The ignitor has continuity. I’m guessing the thermal fuse is the leftmost gizmo of the three things mounted on the blower duct (see attached photo) . . . it looks like it contains a little flat thing that will pull out for replacement. If I pull one wire off, the gizmo shows continuity. What are the other two things? The rightmost one looks like a disc thermostat.
Is the control panel up at the top on the back of the dryer? Do you get to it by removing the back, or does the top lift up somehow?
Found this advice on a nearby post: "
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]Using the multimeter check continuity of the hi - limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, ignitor, flame sensor (remove one wire off when testing). You should read less then 1 Ohm (except the ignitor)." Is the flame sensor that small box mounted to look through a hole in the sheet metal flame duct? I see another thing that looks like a disc thermostat mounted on the flame duct, too. Please explain where all the parts are for these tests. And what they look like. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]The two things that I guess are disc thermostats have continuity. The thing that I think is the flame sensor does not indicate continuity. Does it close or open when there is flame there?[/COLOR][/LEFT]
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/479188-gas-dryer-runs-but-has-no-heat.html#ixzz1wYeWenEn [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]http://forum.appliancepartspros.com [/COLOR][/LEFT]
[quote=Simon / APP Team;740121]Hi.
Open the little cover at the bottom right corner and start the dryer. If the ignitor glows then most likely the control coils are bad. If not - check the ignitor’s continuity.
Unplug the dryer.
Remove two screws at the bottom of the front panel and pull it up and out to one side.
Now you have access to the ignitor, control coils, thermal fuse. First check the ignitor then the fuse(located on the blower wheel housing).
When checking the thermal fuse pull off one wire.
If all this checks OK move to the control panel, locate the heater relay(second from the left) and check the coil’s continuity.Then turn the dryer on and check if there is voltage across coil contact.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Maytag LDG9900 DRYER- GAS | AppliancePartsPros.com
Good luck. Post the results.
Simon.[/quote]
Dryer gizmos.jpg (49.5 KB)
Hi.
The three things on the picture are thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat. At the top of the burner is hi - limit thermostat and flame sensor.You should reed <1ohm. Thermistor at room t*- 10Kohms (approx).
Refer to the link in my previous post for the diagrams and parts for pictures and locations.
Thank you.
Simon.
[quote=Simon / APP Team;740482]Hi.
The three things on the picture are thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat. At the top of the burner is hi - limit thermostat and flame sensor.You should reed <1ohm. Thermistor at room t*- 10Kohms (approx).
Refer to the link in my previous post for the diagrams and parts for pictures and locations.
Thank you.
Simon.[/quote]
OK, here’s what I’m getting –
thermal fuse – 0 ohms (continuity)
thermistor – 20,000 ohms
cycling thermostat – 0 ohms
hi-limit thermostat – 0 ohms
flame sensor – no conductivity – is that the part that’s defective? Or is that the normal situation when the dryer is not running?
At room t* the flame sensor should be closed. It’s opens at 1500*F.
If you sure in your measurements then it’s your bad part.
You can test it by installing jumper on the sensor and turn the dryer on a for few seconds.
If the ignitor starts glowing - replace the flame sensor.
The flame sensor AP6008294
Good luck. Post the results.
Simon.
The flame sensor came and I put it in. Seems to be working; flame lights. I will need to have a batch of wet stuff to see if it finishes the drying cycle.
Good job!
Simon.
Well, back to the forum. When I left off, the new flame sensor allowed the burner to light, but the flame looked feeble and didn’t make the roaring noise it used to have. I put in a full load of wet laundry and turned it on, and it ran and ran (I could feel a little heat inside, but it was not as hot as normal). Eventually it shut off with clothes still wet, and “F2” displayed on the control panel. What to do next?
Hi.
The F2 code directing to the thermistor. Please check the resistance at room t* 10 Kohm.
Thank you.
Simon.
Well, it was raining today and I couldn’t hang my laundry out on the line, so I took the front off the drier to check the thermistor. One of the wires was unplugged from the thermistor. When I plugged it back on, the dryer was able to start. I hope that fixed the problem!
[quote=Simon / APP Team;752188]Hi.
The F2 code directing to the thermistor. Please check the resistance at room t* 10 Kohm.
Thank you.
Simon.[/quote]
The Almighty is on your side.
Simon.
It’s still not working completely right. It takes much longer to dry and doesn’t get as hot as it used to. The thermistor registers 18,000 ohms at about 67 F, about 20,000 ohms at about 85 F. I zeroed my ohm meter before testing. The igniter heats up red hot. The flame comes on and runs for about 17 seconds, then it shuts off for about 60 seconds, then the cycle repeats. The flame reaches about to the back of the cylindrical burner enclosure, but doesn’t really get sucked up into that vertical plenum beyond it. However, running for such short duration on each cycle, it doesn’t produce enough heat to heat up the wet laundry like it used to. What’s the next thing to test or replace?
HI.
Two things: - check the air flow through the dryer and vent outside, see if the blower wheel is up the speed.
- replace the thermistor.
Simon.
[quote=Simon / APP Team;774143]HI.
Two things: - check the air flow through the dryer and vent outside, see if the blower wheel is up the speed.
- replace the thermistor.
Simon.[/quote]
Airflow from vent is great, what’s the part number for the thermistor? Dryer model is given in the top part of this thread. Could it be the high burner temperature limit switch on the burner duct cone? However, the thermistor is certainly reading high ohms at room temperature. Would that mean it would be falsely reading high temperature in operation?
The thermistor AP4038074
Simon.
Put the new part in, ohms on new thermistor are about the same as on old thermistor, so the old one was likely OK. Ran the dryer with a load of wet laundry. Problem remains, same as described above. Flame comes on, shuts off less than 20 seconds later, stays off about a minute, repeats cycle. Lots of air coming out the exhaust. Exhaust temp is not as warm as it used to be (now it’s barely warm at all). Contents of dryer never get hot like they used to. The flame is just not staying on long enough to provide the normal amount of heat. What’s going on?
Put the new part in, ohms on new thermistor are about the same as on old thermistor, so the old one was likely OK. Ran the dryer with a load of wet laundry. Problem remains, same as described above. Flame comes on, shuts off less than 20 seconds later, stays off about a minute, repeats cycle. Lots of air coming out the exhaust. Exhaust temp is not as warm as it used to be (now it’s barely warm at all). Contents of dryer never get hot like they used to. The flame is just not staying on long enough to provide the normal amount of heat. What’s going on?