FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement

Washer Repair
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41

""It seems like a poor design but mine lasted over 6 years so maybe that’d be ok if they made it easier to fix and not tell you to junk it and buy a new washer.””

Yep that is how I see it.

You will find that most folks won’t take this on. I ordered a new machine around the 3.5 yr mark when I started taking DC/UC errors in Spin Cycle. On the Way home from HD I started asking myself what the heck was going on here. I found a post on a site where an owner had an extended warranty with Sears and the Sears RT came on site and changed out the whole outer tub for DC/UC errors in Spin Cycle! Guess that’s how they do it when $ in no object.

Did a little more digging and found a few references to the Clutch Pulley. Then the technician/troubleshooter in me kicked in and I started turning over rocks on the issue.

I canceled the HD order for the new machine and the rest is history. My wife who bought/ordered the machine back in 05 while on a trip to Fla to see her brother is a little dismayed when I tell her that the machine will last to 2020 and beyond with an occasional tear down for an Outer Tub re-build :slight_smile:

You will find the machine with the exception of the drain pump/pressure switch location is fairly easy to work on/repair and replace parts.

When you get it back together use the onboard diag’s. Take a peek of the recorded diag code blocks then clear the list. Record your machines Cycle Count. Turn on the functions i.e. water inlet valves/dispenser valves, lid locks and watch those pressure switch transitions as the machine fills/e[COLOR=black]mpties (NF&ND error code troubleshooting) [/COLOR]etc.

Do the thru the lid checks of the TDS range of motion check (I have pic’s of the D.C. voltage readings range of motion signaling to the Control Board). These are good base line machine health checks and just becoming familiar with using onboard functional testing/diags.

The Motor Controller and Drive Motor seem to be engineered/matched fairly well. I have seen owners replace the Control Board for no Spin, the Motor Controller for no spin/agitation but the drive motor/tranny seems to be a tank. I’m sure that’s why it they have a 10 yr. warranty.

I have seen owners post with occasional over fill/flood conditions that were related to Stuck Open Water Inlet Valve and Stuck Pressure Switch but that’s not chronic and I feel no worse then other machine models.

I have tried to make sure the family goes easy with the hE detergent and the bleach dispenser location is hard on the Left Hand Lid Lock and TDS (corrosion issues).

Andy let us know how the Spinner Support scoring works out.

You gent’s are deep into the bowels of the machine and doing great…GIT-R-DONE!

Dick

42

Hi Guys,

I’ve been thinking about this. All the washers have what we call a “rotating feedthrough” in the vacuum industry. This washer has a compound version, with one drive shaft inside the other. That tub seal is probably as good as any of them get, but I think Mike’s vaseline idea is a real good one. I have an inert colorless oil (TorrLube) I’ll use to condition the o-ring. Most grease that breaks loose will float and coat the outer tub, so I doubt we’ll be looking at clothes with grease stains.

My brothers work in the marine industry. I’m going to ask them what the propeller shaft seals look like. I’m sure they leak, too.

I’ll work the surface over with fine emery cloth and use Vaseline on it. BTW, on the rusty parts, once they are wire-brushed clean, you can drive any dampness off with Heet (methanol engine starter) then rub some protective grease on them when they’re dry.

This is actually a lot of fun. The machine is a complex piece of mechanical engineering, and it’s unique. It’s very cool to see how the engineers worked through the issues and made this thing work.

I also own a Kenmore Series 90, on which I’ve replaced the Driver Coupler and the Timer. Parts for that are available all the time on ********. That thing is a tank, but its tub is starting to have rust spots where the enamel is worn off. What’s really cool about the Series 90 is that the whole cover slips off, leaving you total access all around the machine.

I should have my new clutch by Friday. If I have time, I’ll work on cleaning parts until then. You guys have a great week.

Best,

Andy

43

HI guys I checked the left lid lock location and removed the lock and unplugged the wiring and I dont see any signs of corrosion yet unless I’m in the wrong place I think it’s good so far. I got everything pretty clean now so just waiting for parts. I suppose there will be a lot of people with these problems soon since the seals seem to go bad in the 4 to 7 year range. I’m working on my spa pump also for a seal between the motor and the wet end because it was dripping and they recommend replacing the seal every year. If not then corrosion builds up and locks the shaft to impeller. Maybe the wash tub seal would have been better on the bottom or made to be able to replace without a complete tear down. (btw the spa seal is the same age as the tub seal because I built my house and installed them at the same time. As I did with all my appliances and I seem to have several needing some repair lately so maybe that’s in the design for a product cycle?)

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On a side note maybe they should have recommended a service plan with preventative maintenance like cleaning and lube parts like the clutch bearings and corrosion control. They could probably make good money with volume and provide some jobs while they’re at it.

45

Going to send you a interesting read/link from another forum.

You guys are aware that you have to replace the Outer Tub to replace the Outer Tub bearings in the FAV6800A/FAV9800A…right:eek:

e-mail to follow with link…Dick

46

HA ha that’s funny. Just think if we were service men and knew exactly what to do to fix these machines. I would fix them on the side and “clean up” pun intended.lol. I would just come up with a flat price, order all parts, (tub seal, o-ring, clutch, and 4 bearings)and when I had the parts I would show up and do all work necessary and salvage the good parts for a future repair. After a couple of times I think you could do it pretty fast. Not to mention all the other work you would pick up.

47

Hi Guys,

Well, it would be hard to justify changing out the whole tub, knowing what we know now. Thanks to Dick. There’s a guy o ******** trying to get $350 for one of these that needs a clutch and a spinner support. :eek: Ouch.

I have noticed something worth looking at: the seat on the Spinner Support where the o-ring sits - it seals the transmission to the Spinner Support - make sure it’s smooth and clean. The rusty crud I found caked around the top bearing in the Spinner Support was undoubtedly due to water leaking through this seal.

Andy

48

““There’s a guy o ******** trying to get $350 for one of these that needs a clutch and a spinner support.””

That machine will be on the block forever. Whats wrong with the spinner support of the above machine? Is it missing?

““I have noticed something worth looking at: the seat on the Spinner Support where the o-ring sits - it seals the transmission to the Spinner Support - make sure it’s smooth and clean.””

Yep a good clean up is key. Andy, how does the caged needle bearing look in the Spinner Support Clutch Pulley end?

49

Dick,

I ordered new bearings for the Spinner Support. I have to give that thing a little TLC. The old ones looked shaky.

I don’t know why the guy on you-know-where thinks he needs a spinner support. Maybe the repairman told him. It’s a pain to clean up - but new ones are $240.

I just finished a big project for a client, so I’m going to get going on the washer again.

Best,

Andy

50

Well guys great news. I got all the parts last night about 2:00pm and had it back together by 5:00pm. Every thing works and no leak so far. I left the front panel off so I can watch it for a bit. I ran the spin test and it hit 850rpm so we ran one quick wash with hot water and bleach just to clean any grease or vaseline off. I ran another with whites and it is working great. I’m glad I replaced all the bearings because it is so quiet now. We didn’t realize it had gotten louder. I lubed the new clutch with slick 50 one lube and it locked up like it was suppose to. When I first tried to spin it you had to spin hard but now it locks immediately. I put vaseline on the o-ring and the tub seal. I can’t thank you enough Dick and Andy. I have been off work with a broken hand and had my wife helping me. Right now I have more time than money so it was nice to be able to get it back running without buying a new one. Thanks again.
Mike

51

Good deal Mike great job and nice working with you!

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Wow! Success! Good job, Mike.

I just got my last parts today, punched out the Spinner Support inner bearings, cleaned it up and installed the new ones. The caged needle bearings were a little tough to knock out until I inserted a 3/8" drive extension and smacked it through with an old Phillips head screwdriver.

Tomorrow I re-assemble and test. It’s too cold in the garage for that right now.

I am so glad I found this thread, and you, Dick. You’re a lifesaver. Anyway, more tomorrow. Out,

Andy

53

Andy, I think that is what I used, see the pic of my bearing removal tools…..I then tapped in the caged bearing with a brass bushing that was slightly larger OD as that SCE-910 bearing.

“”I am so glad I found this thread, and you, Dick. You’re a lifesaver.“” No way…..you and Mike did all the hard work, I was just sitting back having a cup of coffee.

You are almost done… great job Andy!

54

Dick,

I finished the job today and tested it on Normal, Hot/Cold, Maximum Extract, and it seemed to work fine. It had 4 dirty towels in it. Nice and quiet, towels got clean, and they were quite dry, too.

I made a couple of mistakes today:

  1. I tightened the bolt for the Pulley Clutch too much and sheared it off. Had to buy a bolt extractor to get it out and a 1/4-20 by 1/2" bolt to replace it. The bolt needed a new washer, since the stock washer was apparently collared on, and has a small hole.

  2. I bolted down the Spinner Basket w/o checking how it aligned with the tranny. When I put the tranny in, it did not align with the Lifters. Had to undo the six bolts and re-align. For those doing this the first time: set the Spinner Support so that the Tranny mount hole with the arrow pointing to it is at about 7 o’clock as you face the machine, then set the Spinner Tub in with the “R” on the right and find the closest bolt holes for the six bolts.

  3. Don’t leave the tranny laying around with its hole facing down - it will lose oil.

In total, I paid $50 for the inoperative washer, about $175 for parts and misc, and now I have a nice rebuilt $1000 machine. I am happy. Also, it was a fun project.

Dick, you are way better than the Appliance Samurai, or whatever he call himself. Thanks again for all the help. If I’m ever in Pennsylvania, I will try to buy you a beer.

Best regards,

Andy:)

55

Hey Andy,

I’m glad it worked out for you. Yep the 3/8” pulley bolt is torque down to 8 foot pounds/96 inch pounds. I just tighten snug. When I sheared off one of my Spinner Bolts on tear down that was no joy.

Very solid points on reassembly, I wish I would have taken more pics on reassembly.

The person in the other DIY forum was just putting out bad info on the repair you and Mike just completed. “”Need to replace the Outer Tub to get new bearings”” Yea right ….you and Mike shot a big hole thru that statement.

That kind of info might cause an owner to put the machine out at the curb for bulk trash pickup before attempting to even consider a DIY repair. It’s a very good forum but I prefer helping FAV6800A/FAV9800A owners here on this forum.

You and Mike are more then qualified to work any issue this machine can throw at you. Good job and great working with you on the project.

If our paths should ever cross a cold one sounds real good………..Dick

56

Dick,

Am enjoying reading your post on the tub bearing and seal replacement. Do you have a parts list that you could post?
Seal
O-ring
Tub Bearings

Thanks,

Kyle

57

Kyle,
Do you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service manual? If not Google this “”16022808 Revision 0 December 2003”” and you will find.

What are the first two digits of your Serial Number of your FAV6800A or FAV9800A?

Maytag redesigned the Outer Tub I believe starting with Series 12 and above machines. If your machine is a Series 10 or11 you will use standard off the shelf 6207-2RS Bearings. If your machine is a Series 12 or above you can still use 6207-2RS bearings but you will need to shim out I believe the lower Outer Tub bearing on reassembly.

You can get the Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring from thru this site and verify parts from the exploded parts view of your machine at this site.

P/N below from the front end of this thread.

Qty 1 Tub Seal AP4035323
Qty 1 O-ring seal AP4034167

If you need to replace the Outer Tub Bearings;
Qty 2 6207-2RS Bearing 35x72x17 Sealed (note can be used for Series 12 thru 17 but requires some mod).

If needed the Clutch Pulley I would use for all FAV6800A/FAV9800A series 25001169 it’s much cheaper.

A couple of forum members just went thru the Outer Tub rebuild with success. This included replacing the bearings in the Spinner Support assembly which is recommended. I hope we can help you with your machines issues, just shout out…Dick

58

Dick,

Found the manual online and printed out the necessary pages, thanks for the information.

Went ahead and ordered the seal and the o-ring. Had noticed that although the tub spins freely, the noise the machine puts out had been increasing over the last few months. Based in this, will order and replace the two outer tub bearings.
Model: FAV6800A
Serial: 10886157EA (How do I tell what series I have from this?)

Last question, the spinner bearing, is there just one of these? Is it the INA SCE-910 caged needle bearing as shown in the post?

Thanks,

Kyle

59

Hey Kyle,

“”Found the manual online and printed out the necessary pages, thanks for the information.””

Good deal it’s a reference if you go through this post we hope to fill in some of the blanks.

See my clutch post Maytag Neptune load unbalance. for removal of the clutch and give it good inspection/cleaning and re-lube per that post.

“”Went ahead and ordered the seal replaced and the o-ring. Had noticed that although the tub spins freely, the noise the machine puts out had been increasing over the last few months. Based in this, will order and replace the two outer tub bearings.””

I feel that is worth doing you will breathe another 5 years of life into the machine. Once you remove the Spinner Support on tear down to the bearings you will have a good feel for wash water penetration as Mike showed on his Outer Tub re-build. The two forum members elected to also replace the Spinner Support bearings as I did. That will be the upper bearing 6002DU, replace with a 6002-2RS. The Splined end of the agitator shaft rides in that sealed bearing. And the lower end caged INA SCE-910 caged needle bearing on the square end side/Clutch Pulley side of the agitator shaft.

“Model: FAV6800A
Serial: 10886157EA (How do I tell what series I have from this?)”

1st two digits of your S/N is the series you have a Series 10 Machine. It will use standard 6207-2RS outer tub bearings. I found them for around $15 delivered to the house 18 months ago. Look for best price on the bearings.

“”Last question, the spinner bearing, is there just one of these? Is it the INA SCE-910 caged needle bearing as shown in the post?””

Yep it’s the caged needle bearing on the right and on the left is the 6002-2RS. They are not too hard to press/drive in just take your time.

Please shout out with any questions or concerns. If I don’t respond right away I’m sure two of our most recent forum members will give you a hand…Dick

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Dick,
Thx for your reply a couple of weeks ago about repairing my Neptune TL washer. Due to health/job reasons, we just activated the American Home Shield warranty and they paid to replace it, rather than repair. We ended up getting a Speed Queen. Thanks for all your expert, thorough, and patient guidance and care. You guys rock!