[COLOR=#333333]Mike,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]While you are waiting for parts you may want to look at that Left Hand Lid Lock as a PM measure see this post. FAV6800A/FAV9800A Left Hand Lid Lock issues [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]Mike,[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#333333]While you are waiting for parts you may want to look at that Left Hand Lid Lock as a PM measure see this post. FAV6800A/FAV9800A Left Hand Lid Lock issues [/COLOR]
Dick,
I am finally disassembling and have hit a couple of possible issues. First, I cannot rotate the Spinner so the arrow points toward the back (12 o’clock). It just won’t rotate. So, I’ve taken the tumblersand tumbler bearings out while the arrow points to about 7 o’clock.
Next issue is only the “L” tumbler had a toothed Jounal - the part shown at the top of page 39 in the SM.
I’m proceeding with tranny removal. What is the upshot of doing this aligned at 7 o’clock, and is there supposed to be 2 Jounals, one on the back of each Tumbler?
Thanks,
Andy
“”I am finally disassembling and have hit a couple of possible issues. First, I cannot rotate the Spinner so the arrow points toward the back (12 o’clock). It just won’t rotate.””
It sounds like the Spinner Assembly is locked up in the Outer Tub bearings. You can’t rotate the wash basket CCW is that correct? If so I would just continue with tear down.
“”Next issue is only the “L” tumbler had a toothed Jounal - the part shown at the top of page 39 in the SM.””
“”and is there supposed to be 2 Jounals, one on the back of each Tumbler?”” If you mean this see pick below Journal Lock
We are talking about these parts [COLOR=#0000ff]AP4009556[/COLOR] it looks like someone tried to pull the tumbler before.
“”I’m proceeding with tranny removal. What is the upshot of doing this aligned at 7 o’clock,””
I think you are refering to the resting posistion of the wash basket because can’t rotate the wash basket to the posistion as shown page 39? If so go forward with tear down.
I have to leave for work shortly 3:30PM to 12:30AM Tue thru Sat. Maybe Mike can jump in here and help if you have questions he is moving right along with his project. I did this two years ago and have only a poor memory and some pic’s to fall back on. Will drop back in after work tonight.
Dick
Journal Lock.jpg (7.8 KB)
[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]Link did not come thru go to FAV6800AWW parts break down and view this [/COLOR][COLOR=#000000][COLOR=#0000ff]AP4009556[/COLOR][/COLOR][/LEFT]
[COLOR=#000000]Or click on this URL[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000]Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Lifter flange bearin, part number: AP4009556[/COLOR]
Hi Andy
I think if I understand correctly you have some bearings locked up. If that’s the case just proceed with tear down. You dont need to worry about the timing until you put it back together. I would keep trying to spin the basket at each stage of disassembly. Take the clutch off first and spin, then tumblers and spin, transmission and spin, etc just to get an idea what part is locked up. Mike
Hi Mike,
Good suggestions. I didn’t check for spin after I took out the tumblers, and one of them was missing its Journal lock - the part pictured in Dick’s post from earlier. There was some spin scoring on the Tumbler Bearing beneath the one Journal Lock. I’ve ordered a new set.
I took the Spinner out and have also taken the tub out. The bearings are okay, but I’m going to replace them anyway since they’re getting a little rough.
The Pulley Clutch looks like a bomb went off in it. I’m going to try to attach a picture. The sheet metal springs are bent and the SS pin is loose and rolling around inside. I don’t know if I can salvage it.
Andy
Here’s a second try at the pic upload
Pulley Clutch.pdf (56.4 KB)
Well, it looks like the pulley clutch bearings completely failed. The white teflon housing was covered with a greasy black film, and when I drove the coupler out it was caked with a burned-on grease mess. The roller bearings don’t look like they’ll ever roll again.
I’ll post a pick later.
Got the big 1.75" nut off using a spud wrench, which I tapped CCW while holding the spindle with the handle of a spanner.
I’ll replace the tub bearings tomorrow and order a new clutch assembly ($93!) and some Journal Locks.
Andy
Dick,
It looks like the culprit was a seized bearing in the pulley clutch. Once that froze, the clutch spring apparently got mangled, as you can see in the pdf I posted earlier. I’m going ahead with the tub bearing replacement while I wait for a new pulley clutch assembly, since they feel a little rough.
My spinner bolts came out with some effort, but they were not too bad. That Journal Lock thing is called a Lifter Bearing assembly and you gave me the right number, thanks. It looks like an order of 1 gets you 4 pieces- 2 for each Tumbler (Lifter).
A plumber’s spud wrench ($10) can be used on the big 1.75" nut, if you put the handle of a wrench in the slot of the spindle, hold them both with one hand while tapping the spud wrench with a small hammer. It takes time - the nut turns with difficulty for about the first full 1-2 turns. I don’t have an impact driver.
The spinner basket seems to have water in it, and I haven’t figured out how to get it out. I’d like to drain it and somehow seal it against any more water getting in, if possible. Do you know if/how that can be done?
Is there a way to tell if the tranny is still good? Should the gears be a little resistant to spinning?
A lot of questions, I know. I really appreciate all the help you’ve given me. This has actually been kinda fun so far.
Best,
Andy
Hi Andy,
Good job on the tear down. It kind of sounds like someone might have tried to repair it before and didn’t do a good job of it.
We also have the water in the washbasket. I have not had a chance to see how the water got in or how to get it out.
Did they give you the part #'s for the parts you need, such as the clutch, bearings, and seals? If not, let me know. I still have the info since I just ordered all mine yesterday.
The transmission should be a little resistant to spinning. If you look through the plastic while you turn it, you should be able to see the oil slowly slosh back and forth. If it moves quickly, then it means you have water in there.
Good luck,
Mike
That’s down right nasty. No saving that Clutch Pulley.
Mike, Andy, heads up.
““We also have the water in the washbasket. I have not had a chance to see how the water got in or how to get it out.””
That I believe is a saline solution to help dampen out tub oscillations installed from the factory, don’t fix that….. it’s not broke.
Like Mike mentioned there will be some resistance to turning. I have not seen any trannys go bad in the many hundreds of post on four different forums I have been on. The drive motor in this machine seems to be real solid also.
You gents are making some solid headway two new FAV6800A GURU’s welcome to the club and spread the knowledge. You both will have a real good working knowledge of the machine when this is all over.
Keep your eyes open for machines that folks are junking and grab them up. It’s good to have a spare Control Board, Console, and Motor Controller for troubleshooting…Pulling the plug I just got home from work and I’m dragging tonight.
You can extend the service with the PM’s you guys are doing. The Left Hand Lid Lock will cause some issues I believe I mentioned it in this post. But first things first the Outer Tub rebuild…Have a good one gents…Dick
Andy,
I see you are on line can you give me a quick ping on my e-mail
Tnx,
Dick
Hey thanks for the heads up Dick. I might have drilled a hole and let it out or something.lol I’m glad I was gone most of the day.I still have to read your post on the lid lock too.Thanks
Mike
No problem when I pulled my inner tub out I scrached my head… what the ![]()
I guess Andy is passed out at the keyboard see him on line…well his computer is awake.
I wanted to chat with him about his Clutch and the p/n we discussed.
Pulling the plug for sure now.
Hi Guys,
Today I got the tub bearings out, cleaned up the races with a wire brush on my drill, lightly greased the whole thing, and put in new bearings. I used the old bearings as buffers between the hammer and the new bearing, and that worked fine. I found that if I put the bottom bearing in first, I tended to knock it back out of the race when I tapped in the top bearing, which has no stop in its race. So, I flipped the tub over and finished by bottoming the bottom bearing in its race. Now, the spacer is snug between the two bearings, an I wonder if I should have packed the space between the spacer and the housing with grease. This is an area where the grease from the bearings ends up. The more I look at the tub seal, the more it looks like the old bearing cup from one of my early autos, and I am tempted to pack it with grease, too.
Would that cause grease to leak into the washer?![]()
I wish I had scrubbed some of the crud off the tub while I had the bearings out. Once I had that back together, I didn’t feel like getting water into the bearing housing, so the tub stays cruddy.
I’m cleaning up the Spinner Support Assembly, and that part bothers me. I think there is supposed to be a watertight seal formed between the Tub Seal and the inner radius of the portion of this assembly that holds the shaft. It appears to be a cast aluminum pat, and there are some nicks and aluminum oxide flowering in this area. I am going to try to smooth and polish it, trying not to cross that sealing surface with any scratches.
I missed the post on the $77 clutch and wasted an extra $16. Oh well.
Dick: Good Luck to the Steelers!
Andy
Andy,
Did you remove the old Tub Seal sleeve from the Spinner Support?
“”I wonder if I should have packed the space between the spacer and the housing with grease.”” I vote no for that but let’s have Mike chime in.
“”This is an area where the grease from the bearings ends up.”” The bearings are sealed so I’m not sure I follow.
“”The more I look at the tub seal, the more it looks like the old bearing cup from one of my early autos, and I am tempted to pack it with grease, too.””
I used nothing extra and the tub seal I had came pre greased.
“”I’m cleaning up the Spinner Support Assembly, and that part bothers me. I think there is supposed to be a watertight seal formed between the Tub Seal and the inner radius of the portion of this assembly that holds the shaft. It appears to be a cast aluminum pat, and there are some nicks and aluminum oxide flowering in this area. I am going to try to smooth and polish it, trying not to cross that sealing surface with any scratches.””
Andy the scoring/pitting you are describing is that the area I have highlighted in red on the Spinner Support that slips into the Tub Seal?
Do you have a Pic?
Spinner Support Tub Seal location.JPG (33.8 KB)
Hi Bill,
Yeah, you’re picture shows the spot. I can’t see how that tub seal makes a good watertight seal there. The spinner basket rotates, so the Spinner Support must rotate inside the tub seal sleeve, right? (I did remove the old sleeve). The upper bearing inside the Spinner Support assembly on my washer had a lot of rusty buildup caked against it. I think I can clean up those bearings but I want to make a better seal.
Go Steelers! I can’t believe - you must be writing during commercials.
Best,
Andy
‘’“Go Steelers! I can’t believe - you must be writing during commercials.”"
Yep it’s all over now.![]()
"“The spinner basket rotates, so the Spinner Support must rotate inside the tub seal sleeve”
The metal sleeve seemed to be a tight friction fit on the Spinner Support and I think that it and the Spinner Support spin inside the seal.
[COLOR=#333333][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]I never gave it very much thought except the Tub Seal system seemed very lean in design for such an important function. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR]
Dick
From what I can see the tub seal sleeve fits tight against the shaft and spins inside the rubber part of the seal. I think the reason it failed is because it got hard over time. It seems like a poor design but mine lasted over 6 years so maybe that’d be ok if they made it easier to fix and not tell you to junk it and buy a new washer. I dont have the new seal yet so I’m guessing you want to make the shaft as smooth as possible and I would think using vaseline on all rubber seals would be good. That’s how you do it on pools and spas. I think they should have a different drive system without making spinning part go through water. Just think how long it would last. Oh yeah they wouldn’t like that much would they? Lol. As far a packing the area between the bearings with grease I dont see any benefit to it. I do think the holes in the outer tub in that area are vents to reduce heat in there. Just my 2 cents.
Mike