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FAV6800A/FAV9800A Left Hand Lid Lock issues

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As a PM measure I would remove the left hand lid lock and inspect for corrosion. The location of the

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Old 02-05-2011, 09:12 AM
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Default FAV6800A/FAV9800A Left Hand Lid Lock issues
Model Number: FAV6800A/FAV9800A   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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As a PM measure I would remove the left hand lid lock and inspect for corrosion. The location of the bleach dispenser seems to be very hard on the Left Hand Lid lock and the TDS. I’m going to paste in my post from a FAV6800A Sticky from another forum.
************************************************** ***********************************
Your machine is displaying error codes to the LED display such as OP, OD, FL. I’m not sure what the FAV9800A LCD version of this TL will display.

These error codes are related primarily to the Left Hand Lid Lock. Due to its location near the Bleach Dispenser that lid lock suffers big time from corrosion issues. I recommend you disconnect the plug end of the Right Hand Lid Lock and tape up that plug to simplify troubleshooting.

The machine will operate as designed with just the Left Hand Lid Lock in operation. The Left Hand Lid Lock has dual functions that the Right Hand Lid Lock does not support. That is via a Magnet in the Lid assembly which operates the Magnetic Reed Relay in the Left Hand Lid Lock for signaling the Lid Is Open “OP” error code and via Control Board monitoring the “OD” error code when the Control Board has not sensed that the Lid has been opened for three machine cycles.

The OP error code the “Lid Is Open” and “Lid is Closed” loss of signaling could be caused by a lid magnet out of position.

If your machine is issuing an “OP” error code to the LED display or LCD display. I would first check for a Lid magnet out of position. This check is very easy. With the OP error code showing and the Washer Lid open/raised. Place a strong magnet over the Left Side Grey rubber bumper and see if the OP error code clears. See the Pic below with magnets placed on the left side Gray lid bumper.

If the OP error code cleared then go to the Service Manual “see pic page 35 top left for the Lid Magnet” and follow the SM for access/inspection of the Lid Magnet. If the “OP” error code did not clear its time to dig deeper with troubleshooting into the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly.

Severe corrosion in the Left hand Lid Lock could cause the lead from the Magnetic Reed Relay to break off (see the 1st Pic” and open up the signaling path thru the Left Hand Lid Lock preventing signaling to the Control Board for a “Lid Is Open/Lid Is Closed” most of the time this is the issue. If so you can try to re-solder the lead on the Magnetic Reed relay or replace the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly if you don’t want to attempt the repair.

OK an external magnet on the Left Hand Grey Bumper does not clear the “OP” error code. It’s now time to remove the Left Hand Lid Lock. Follow the SM for Lid Lock removal page 34. I find it easier to remove the ” hex screw and hold the lid lock in my hand then remove the plug from the lid lock.

Corrosion in the plug end could make it very difficult to remove the plug end from the lid lock. Be careful you do not stress/cause damage to the lid lock assembly when removing that assembly.

With the Left Hand Lid lock removed gently open up the assembly top cover. The locking tabs break off in a heartbeat. Take your time here working the top cover off.

Once the top cover is off review for corrosion issues and a possible open lead issue on the Magnetic Reed Relay sees pic’s below. Clean up the corrosion issues if any. I use WD-40 and an emery finger nail file board to clean up the male pins in the Left Hand Lid Lock.

Reassemble/reinstall the Left Hand Lid Lock and give it a try. If you still have issues, post as a new problem and I or others will try to help. Please don’t post in the sticky unless you have a correction or troubleshooting support update for the sticky.

The “FL” error code for Failed to Lock. This could be caused by loss of signaling back to the Control Board. This issue could be caused by a washer lid alignment issue and the Lid Latch does not protrude into the lid properly or over shoots the lock position maybe caused by a distorted washer lid.

The Control Board will attempt to lock the lid 6 times or so before it issues a “FL” error code for Failed to Lock.

There is a slide switch mechanism in the Lid Lock assembly that will send +12.0 VDC back to the Control Board for “Lid Is locked” when the Lid Lock is operating as designed. See attached pic where I monitor signaling at the Control Board. The Pic with the DVM shows me montoring +12.0VDC at the Control Baord. You can monitor back to the Control Board with a DVM for the “Lid is Open” the “Lid is Closed” and the "Lid is Locked" +12.0VDC signaling at the Control Board Conn_P3 for nailing down the fault location causing the error code.


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Attached Images
File Type: jpg Big Pic of Left Lid Lock.jpg (41.2 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg CONN P3 labled pin out Rev A1.jpg (63.6 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg FAV6800AW Left Lid Lock Pin Out.jpg (58.0 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg Control Board 12VDC Lid Is Locked.JPG (81.9 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg Corrision Left Lid Lock FL&LO Error.JPG (23.6 KB, 83 views)

Last edited by dh1200s : 02-05-2011 at 09:21 AM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2011, 11:21 AM
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Default

Pic of magnet over Left Gray bumper to see if the OD or OP error code will clear.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Magnets.JPG (29.3 KB, 79 views)

Last edited by dh1200s : 02-27-2011 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:00 PM
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Default Cant Clear OD

I've tired all the suggested methods of fixing this problem but seems nothing i do will clear the board saying OD.

The magnet method didnt work. I took apart the Left Hand Lid Lock and cleaned off the green corrosion. Putted it back together with high hopes. But still OD.

The only thing i can think of is that the control board might be off. The normal, spin only, quick wash options don't work. Is there any connection with the two?

Any idea will help. Thanks

Last edited by luckyduck : 01-08-2012 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:58 AM
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Do you own a DVM?

I don’t replace parts like the Left Hand Lid Lock without a bit troubleshooting to get me closer to the fail point. When you opened up the Left Hand Lid Lock did the solder connections look solid on the reed relay in the Left Hand Lid Lock? See the pick of the black and red leads on the reed relay in the pics in this thread.

I would verify on the workbench/kitchen table that the left hand lid lock is signaling correctly. See this post Maytag 6800 OD code go to post dated 04-15-2011, 02:24 AM

I show the reed relay switching action for lid open/closed with my DVM in Ohm meter function using an external magnet . Can you check that action if you have and DVM/Ohm meter?

If you see proper switching action of the reed relay on the work bench then I would check to see if +12VDC is showing at the Control Board at Conn_P3 Pin 9 with the + lead of the DVM and the – lead of the DVM on Conn_P3 Pin 10 with the washer lid closed. When you open the washer lid +12VDC will be removed from Conn_P3 Pin 9.

You could just replace the Left Hand Lid Lock but I would not spend a dime until you do some troubleshooting. The clean up routine is a first step.

I’m a technical owner not a appliance repair tech but I feel additional troubleshooting is called for before throwing parts at the machine.

I don’t want to send anyone to the Control Board unless they have some basic skill sets using a DVM. If the Left Hand Lid lock reed relay has the switching action I show in this post Maytag 6800 OD code go to post dated 04-15-2011, 02:24 AM then it would be time to troubleshoot further in the upper wiring harness to the Control Board.

The pic I show at the Control Board in this post is measuring +12VDC switching action for “”Lid Is Locked”” signaling.

Dick

Last edited by dh1200s : 01-09-2012 at 01:07 AM.
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