Dual Infinite Switch Replacement

[Joe_APP_Team]

[quote=dillybob;282094]Joe,
I ordered the new switch and it got here already! Wow! Problem persists equally with both switches. When I put the dual red wire from the power supply on P2, and the dual black power supply on P1, I the burner doesn’t come on at all. When I reverse those two, I get High only.[/quote]

Dillybob,

We still have something mis wired or crossed,

Do you have the wiring diagram / schematic that came with your cooktop ?

Did you remove or disconnect any wires at the other infinite switches or elements ?

I need you to go through and check and make sure the switches are wired according to the wiring diagram. (dual black on L1 and dual red on L2 etc.)

Then we can get this new switch properly wired and operating.

[dillybob]

Joe, I have the wiring diagram. It’s a little confusing at the bottom where it discusses compound connection and L2 piggyback connection.

To summarize my current wiring:

This dual burner appears to be the first of the burners from the main power supply. The red wire from the power supply is currently attached to the P1 (L1,2) and it also continues on to the next switch.

The black wire from the power supply had another black wire attached to it (piggyback?) that went directly to the burner sensor and was never directly attached to the old switch. It apparently supplied power to the burner sensors, all of them are daisy chain connected to this wire. I cut this wire and attached it to terminal 2 of the new switch. The main black wire from the power supply is connected to P2 (L2) on the new switch and also continues on to the next switch.

The jumper wire goes from P1 to S1 on the new switch.
Orange wire is for the indicator light and is conneccted to S2 (P,5).
The purple and green wires are the inner/outer element wires connected to 4 and 4a.

I did not remove any wires from any of the other switches/burners. With this wiring, all the burners come on and work properly, except the dual burner which is either on or not. It does not switch on/off for temperature control when I turn it down like the other burners do.

When I reverse the dual red and black (L1,2), and L2, which is seems to be according to the wiring diagram, all the other burners still work, but this one does not come on at all.

I really appreciate your help.
Bob

[quote=Joe / APP Team;282361]Dillybob,

We still have something mis wired or crossed,

Do you have the wiring diagram / schematic that came with your cooktop ?

Did you remove or disconnect any wires at the other infinite switches or elements ?

I need you to go through and check and make sure the switches are wired according to the wiring diagram. (dual black on L1 and dual red on L2 etc.)

Then we can get this new switch properly wired and operating.

[/quote]

[Joe_APP_Team]

[quote=dillybob;282378]Joe, I have the wiring diagram. It’s a little confusing at the bottom where it discusses compound connection and L2 piggyback connection.

To summarize my current wiring:

This dual burner appears to be the first of the burners from the main power supply. The red wire from the power supply is currently attached to the P1 (L1,2) and it also continues on to the next switch.

The black wire from the power supply had another black wire attached to it (piggyback?) that went directly to the burner sensor and was never directly attached to the old switch. It apparently supplied power to the burner sensors, all of them are daisy chain connected to this wire. I cut this wire and attached it to terminal 2 of the new switch. The main black wire from the power supply is connected to P2 (L2) on the new switch and also continues on to the next switch.

The jumper wire goes from P1 to S1 on the new switch.
Orange wire is for the indicator light and is conneccted to S2 (P,5).
The purple and green wires are the inner/outer element wires connected to 4 and 4a.

I did not remove any wires from any of the other switches/burners. With this wiring, all the burners come on and work properly, except the dual burner which is either on or not. It does not switch on/off for temperature control when I turn it down like the other burners do.

When I reverse the dual red and black (L1,2), and L2, which is seems to be according to the wiring diagram, all the other burners still work, but this one does not come on at all.

I really appreciate your help.
Bob[/quote]

Bob,

Now I know were we went wrong(I think ??).

First,

Re connect the two Black wires together, so they are piggybacked, (like originally) and install them on the other P1 terminal on the new switch.

Second,

Separate the dual(piggybacked) Red wires.

Determine which Red wire is routed back to the power junction box, and install it on the P2 terminal on the new switch.

The remaining Red wire, should “daisy chain” to the remaining switches on the L2 terminal, and should be attached to terminal 2 on the new switch.

Here’s how it should look after you’re re wired and installed :

P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2
terminal.

4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.

4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.

S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.

S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.

P2 = Red wire to power junction box.

2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).

With the piggybacked Black wires separated, you were “back feeding” L1 to the switch, from the sensor,through the indicator light.

That’s why it was only on high when the element was on.

Now that I know how you had it wired, you should not have damaged either one of the switches you installed (keep one as a back up).

Let us know what happens,

[dillybob]

Wired as directed. The other 3 burners don’t come on at all, and the dual burner still is on or off only. Don’t give up yet…this can’t get the best of us.
Bob

[quote=Joe / APP Team;282416]Bob,

Now I know were we went wrong(I think ??).

First,

Re connect the two Black wires together, so they are piggybacked, (like originally) and install them on the other P1 terminal on the new switch.

Second,

Separate the dual(piggybacked) Red wires.

Determine which Red wire is routed back to the power junction box, and install it on the P2 terminal on the new switch.

The remaining Red wire, should “daisy chain” to the remaining switches on the L2 terminal, and should be attached to terminal 2 on the new switch.

Here’s how it should look after you’re re wired and installed :

P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2
terminal.

4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.

4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.

S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.

S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.

P2 = Red wire to power junction box.

2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).

With the piggybacked Black wires separated, you were “back feeding” L1 to the switch, from the sensor,through the indicator light.

That’s why it was only on high when the element was on.

Now that I know how you had it wired, you should not have damaged either one of the switches you installed (keep one as a back up).

Let us know what happens,

[/quote]

[dillybob]

I have the Jennair wiring diagram 209534A that came with the cooktop. If you can’t find a copy I can scan and email you tomorrow if you need it.
Bob

[quote=Joe / APP Team;282416]Bob,

Now I know were we went wrong(I think ??).

First,

Re connect the two Black wires together, so they are piggybacked, (like originally) and install them on the other P1 terminal on the new switch.

Second,

Separate the dual(piggybacked) Red wires.

Determine which Red wire is routed back to the power junction box, and install it on the P2 terminal on the new switch.

The remaining Red wire, should “daisy chain” to the remaining switches on the L2 terminal, and should be attached to terminal 2 on the new switch.

Here’s how it should look after you’re re wired and installed :

P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2
terminal.

4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.

4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.

S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.

S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.

P2 = Red wire to power junction box.

2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).

With the piggybacked Black wires separated, you were “back feeding” L1 to the switch, from the sensor,through the indicator light.

That’s why it was only on high when the element was on.

Now that I know how you had it wired, you should not have damaged either one of the switches you installed (keep one as a back up).

Let us know what happens,

[/quote]

[Joe_APP_Team]

[quote=dillybob;282539]I have the Jennair wiring diagram 209534A that came with the cooktop. If you can’t find a copy I can scan and email you tomorrow if you need it.
Bob[/quote]

Bob,

I’m almost lost, now.

Yes, send me a copy of your schematic, I doubt if theres a difference, but let’s see.

I’m guessing we’re going to have to start from the beginning and work our way out of this mess.

So be ready for some things and checks that may not make sense to you.

[dillybob]

I saw the schematic you have…It’s the same, except mine has a text box on the bottom that reads: "NOTE THERE IS A RESISTANCE HEATER IN ALL INFINITE CONTROLS IN SERIES WITH H1 & H2. EXCEPT LEFT REAR (the one we are working on) WHERE THE TESISTANCE HEATER IS IN SERIES WITH L1 AND N. SEE REVERSE SIDE FOR DETAILS.
quote=Joe / APP Team;282724]Bob,

I’m almost lost, now.

Yes, send me a copy of your schematic, I doubt if theres a difference, but let’s see.

I’m guessing we’re going to have to start from the beginning and work our way out of this mess.

So be ready for some things and checks that may not make sense to you.

[/quote]

[Joe_APP_Team]

[quote=dillybob;282740]I saw the schematic you have…It’s the same, except mine has a text box on the bottom that reads: "NOTE THERE IS A RESISTANCE HEATER IN ALL INFINITE CONTROLS IN SERIES WITH H1 & H2. EXCEPT LEFT REAR (the one we are working on) WHERE THE TESISTANCE HEATER IS IN SERIES WITH L1 AND N. SEE REVERSE SIDE FOR DETAILS.
quote=Joe / APP Team;282724]Bob,

I’m almost lost, now.

Yes, send me a copy of your schematic, I doubt if theres a difference, but let’s see.

I’m guessing we’re going to have to start from the beginning and work our way out of this mess.

So be ready for some things and checks that may not make sense to you.

[/quote][/quote]

Bob,

My schematic apparently is the same as yours(mine has the same notes as yours’ as well).

Let’s try this:

Since the new switch is # 1 in the switch harness,and it sort of works,

RECHECK the splices and terminals that you made in the beginning on the piggybacked Black and Red wires at the new switch.

Be CAREFUL this is a live 240 volt test at the switches and wiring.

*** You’ll need to turn power off and on between checks ***

1. With power on and access to the switch wires, check from P1 terminal to p2 terminal for 240 VAC .

2. Then turn the switch on and see if you have the same voltage on the same terminals.

3. Now,remove and check each Red wire on the new switch to chassis ground for 120 VAC (only one red wire should have 120 VAC on it at this time).

The red wire with 120 VAC should go on terminal P2 on the new switch , the other should go on terminal 2. (if wiring needs to be switched).

4. Recheck for 240 VAC at terminal P1 and P2, with the switch on.

5. Now check for 120 VAC at L1 (Black) to chassis ground on all the other
   switches

6. Now check for 120 VAC at L2 (Red) to chassis ground on all the other
   switches.

7. Now Check for 240 VAC from L1 to L2 on all the other switches.

Let us know what you get, and what, if any repairs, you had to make.

[dillybob]

Joe,
I took apart the old switch and fixed it. Wired it back according to the wiring instruction sheet and it works. I feel silly that I didn’t try that before I ordered new switches and took all this time (yours/mine). I still don’t know why the new switch wouldn’t work for me, but I guess now I don’t care. I sure hope it doesn’t break. thanks for your help.

Bob,

My schematic apparently is the same as yours(mine has the same notes as yours’ as well).

Let’s try this:

Since the new switch is # 1 in the switch harness,and it sort of works,

RECHECK the splices and terminals that you made in the beginning on the piggybacked Black and Red wires at the new switch.

Be CAREFUL this is a live 240 volt test at the switches and wiring.

*** You’ll need to turn power off and on between checks ***

1. With power on and access to the switch wires, check from P1 terminal to p2 terminal for 240 VAC .

2. Then turn the switch on and see if you have the same voltage on the same terminals.

3. Now,remove and check each Red wire on the new switch to chassis ground for 120 VAC (only one red wire should have 120 VAC on it at this time).

The red wire with 120 VAC should go on terminal P2 on the new switch , the other should go on terminal 2. (if wiring needs to be switched).

4. Recheck for 240 VAC at terminal P1 and P2, with the switch on.

5. Now check for 120 VAC at L1 (Black) to chassis ground on all the other
   switches

6. Now check for 120 VAC at L2 (Red) to chassis ground on all the other
   switches.

7. Now Check for 240 VAC from L1 to L2 on all the other switches.

Let us know what you get, and what, if any repairs, you had to make.

[/quote]

[Joe_APP_Team]

[quote=dillybob;282909]Joe,
I took apart the old switch and fixed it. Wired it back according to the wiring instruction sheet and it works. I feel silly that I didn’t try that before I ordered new switches and took all this time (yours/mine). I still don’t know why the new switch wouldn’t work for me, but I guess now I don’t care. I sure hope it doesn’t break. thanks for your help.

Bob,

My schematic apparently is the same as yours(mine has the same notes as yours’ as well).

Let’s try this:

Since the new switch is # 1 in the switch harness,and it sort of works,

RECHECK the splices and terminals that you made in the beginning on the piggybacked Black and Red wires at the new switch.

Be CAREFUL this is a live 240 volt test at the switches and wiring.

*** You’ll need to turn power off and on between checks ***

1. With power on and access to the switch wires, check from P1 terminal to p2 terminal for 240 VAC .

2. Then turn the switch on and see if you have the same voltage on the same terminals.

3. Now,remove and check each Red wire on the new switch to chassis ground for 120 VAC (only one red wire should have 120 VAC on it at this time).

The red wire with 120 VAC should go on terminal P2 on the new switch , the other should go on terminal 2. (if wiring needs to be switched).

4. Recheck for 240 VAC at terminal P1 and P2, with the switch on.

5. Now check for 120 VAC at L1 (Black) to chassis ground on all the other
   switches

6. Now check for 120 VAC at L2 (Red) to chassis ground on all the other
   switches.

7. Now Check for 240 VAC from L1 to L2 on all the other switches.

Let us know what you get, and what, if any repairs, you had to make.

[/quote][/quote]

Bob,

Great,

Glad to hear that,

Like you, I hope it works for a long while,

Good Luck,

[akaruba]

I have the JES9800AAS model stove. I originally found this site when trying to diagnose a burner that wouldn’t cycle off. I was led in the direction of replacing the infinite switch and found links to service manuals. I got the replacement part, which as was well summarized by the originator of this thread, had different wiring instructions than the original switch. I came back to this site and was not disappointed. The instructions for wiring the new switch provided by Joe were perfect and our stove is now working again! I can’t thank you enough. Please keep up the good work helping us folks trying to hang on to our hard earned dollars by trying to take ownership of our fix-it issues.

[Joe_APP_Team]

AKA,

The APP Team are Glad we were able to help you out.

Thanks for the critique on my post, I’m very glad it was helpful.

Have a good Thanksgiving.

[ThatcherDeane]

I just want to say how much I appreciated finding this thread, the prior entry of which helped me replace my Dual Inf switch with minimum fuss. Joe you are great!

[Joe_APP_Team]

Thatcher,

We’re always glad we could help.

I’m glad it went well for you.

Thanks for the compliment, really appreciate it.

Have a good Holiday Season,

Joe M.

[HotInHouston]

Joe,

I have a CVE3400W, similar to DillyBob in previous posts on this thread. I am having the exact same problem with getting the switch to work. Unfortunately for me, it looks like DillyBob fixed his OLD switch, and the two of you never finished debugging how to get the new switch to work with a CVE3400. Appreciate if you could please pick up the old thread again with me.

I have the new switch wired as follows:

P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2
terminal.

4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.

4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.

S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.

S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.

P2 = Red wire to power junction box.

2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).

But (same as DillyBob) now the dual infinite burner works, but the other three don’t.

Shouldn’t I just move the red wire from 2, and put it back together, piggybacked as they were originally, and put it on P2 (and leaving 2 empty)?

I can’t see otherwise how the remaining switches get power from L2.

Appreciate your help.

[Joe_APP_Team]

[quote=HotInHouston;522543]Joe,

I have a CVE3400W, similar to DillyBob in previous posts on this thread. I am having the exact same problem with getting the switch to work. Unfortunately for me, it looks like DillyBob fixed his OLD switch, and the two of you never finished debugging how to get the new switch to work with a CVE3400. Appreciate if you could please pick up the old thread again with me.

I have the new switch wired as follows:

P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2
terminal.

4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.

4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.

S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.

S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.

P2 = Red wire to power junction box.

2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).

But (same as DillyBob) now the dual infinite burner works, but the other three don’t.

Shouldn’t I just move the red wire from 2, and put it back together, piggybacked as they were originally, and put it on P2 (and leaving 2 empty)?

I can’t see otherwise how the remaining switches get power from L2.

Appreciate your help.[/quote]

Houston,

Your issue should be simple( you most likely have the Red wires reversed at the terminals of the new switch). Or

You may have clipped the wrong wire. All the red L2 wires, at all the switches, should have 120 VAC to chassis groung, with power supplied to the cooktop.

Good Luck,

[amgribben]

Joe,

I wired my same switch per your recommendation. Only the outer burner heats up. The outer burner heats up regardless of which direction you turn the switch. The inner one does not come on. Recommendations?

Andy

[Joe_APP_Team]

[quote=amgribben@comcast.net;664502]Joe,

I wired my same switch per your recommendation. Only the outer burner heats up. The outer burner heats up regardless of which direction you turn the switch. The inner one does not come on. Recommendations?

Andy[/quote]

Andy, Did you check and make sure the wiring at the element is OK ?

Could you please get me the model and serial number of your product, so we can get this wiring issue resolved,

Thanks,

[amgribben]

Jenn air cooktop, Model cce3401b. Serial 14610867UQ. The burner wiring appears to be in good shape and in tact.

[Joe_APP_Team]

You’re going to need to recheck the L2 (red) wires and make sure they are on the correct terminals at the new switch. At this point we have L2 power into the switch and 2 L2 power out to the element crossed or mis wired.

Heres a little help for the location of the wires at the new switch, it may help

[ATTACH]4120[/ATTACH]

Good Luck,

Untitled001.PDF (70.9 KB)