I hope you’re still here Joe, I’ve got a question. I too replaced the switch per your instructions and tested. The dual element burner turns on both large and small rings but only on high. When I turn the dial I can hear the thermostat click but no reaction from the burners? Was my switch not the problem afterall? I replaced the infinate switch because the RF dual burner only went on to high with no adjustment to low? Help
Zinger, So far everything sounds normal, and operational. You did need a new infinite switch. If the burner remains on “HI” Regardless of setting, this indicates the “cycling” switch and circuit contacts have arced together and the switch needs to be replaced. When you use the dual element burner, the “low” setting(right side of switch) operates the inner ring only. When you select the “HI” (left side of the switch) this operates both the inner and outer elements, and they cycle off and on in unison. Right now, you’ll need to check and make sure the Red L2 wire is attached to the P2 terminal of the new switch. (The L2 red will be “hot” 120 VAC as long as there is power applied to the range, and common to all the infinite switches). The other two red wires will attach to the number two(2) terminal of the switch (these red wires will enter the wiring harness junction connector and attach to the heater elements in the cooktop). If the wiring at the new switch is not correct, you wont have any L2 power to the element and it wont work. Thanks
Hi Joe, thanks for the quick response. I wired the new switch exactly like the original poster was advised. Here is the wiring from old switch to new:
#1 Blk to S2
#2 Dual Blk wires to P1
#3 Tan (Brn) to 4
#4 Red to 2
#5 Dual Red wires to P2
#6 Yellow to 4a
There was no markings on old switch to determine the “L2” labeling, just numbers?
I was thinking maybe I need to remove the glass top and see if any of the wires to the element are bad or loose before possible ordering a new element?
Jes9800AAB -oven
old switch - 7403P406-60
new switch - 12002125
sure would be great if they would just continue to make parts the same so replacing would be easier!
I didn’t split the dual red wires that went to the #5/N terminal on the old switch as the diagram that came with the new switch was hard to determine what connection I had. The instructions given to original poster was for my same unit so I did what was advised.
Zinger, Everything sounds and looks correct. Here’s another check to make, using a multimeter, set for 240 VAC ( You need to be careful, this is a live voltge test) re apply power to the range, at the new infinite switch check across P1 (dbl black wires) and P2 (double red wires) switch terminals, you should have 220 to 240 VAC wether the switch is off or on. This will confirm you have the proper power supply and the switch is wired correctly. You can then turn the switch on low and check for 220 VAC across red and tan at the element, then high setting red to yellow. If you have the correct voltage, then replace the element, if not, you’ll need to trace wires back to the switch.
Joe M - YOU ARE THE MAN! I have a JES9800AAB Jenn Air and the wiring instructions on page 1 of this thread were spot on.
I thought I’d post some additional comments that hopefully will help someone else with the same model range/oven.
To get to the switches, there is no need to take the glass top off. I slid my unit out just enough to expose the 2 black screws on each side of the control panel. I removed those 2 on each side, then opened the oven door and removed the 4 black screws holding the control panel to the oven. Be sure to have someone ready to “catch” the control panel because it will be ready to tip out at this point. I only removed the knob and knob screws for the one switch I was replacing (in my case, the far right one). Having a helper hold the control panel tilted out, I was able to disconnect the defective switch and reconnect the new switch. My replacement (12002125) came with 2 jumpers. I ended up using the jumper that had the right angle connector on it and was thinner wire than the other jumper provided. The other jumper didn’t seem to fit. I plugged the uninsulated right angle end into P1 with the wire facing outside the switch and the insulated end into S1.
Hope this helps someone else.
Thanks AppliancePartsPros for the great price on the replacement switch and the priceless advice for installing it!
[quote=jhcrowman;802927]Joe M - YOU ARE THE MAN! I have a JES9800AAB Jenn Air and the wiring instructions on page 1 of this thread were spot on.
I thought I’d post some additional comments that hopefully will help someone else with the same model range/oven.
To get to the switches, there is no need to take the glass top off. I slid my unit out just enough to expose the 2 black screws on each side of the control panel. I removed those 2 on each side, then opened the oven door and removed the 4 black screws holding the control panel to the oven. Be sure to have someone ready to “catch” the control panel because it will be ready to tip out at this point. I only removed the knob and knob screws for the one switch I was replacing (in my case, the far right one). Having a helper hold the control panel tilted out, I was able to disconnect the defective switch and reconnect the new switch. My replacement (12002125) came with 2 jumpers. I ended up using the jumper that had the right angle connector on it and was thinner wire than the other jumper provided. The other jumper didn’t seem to fit. I plugged the uninsulated right angle end into P1 with the wire facing outside the switch and the insulated end into S1.
Hope this helps someone else.
Thanks AppliancePartsPros for the great price on the replacement switch and the priceless advice for installing it![/quote]
Jhcrowman, Thanks
We appreciate your comments, We’re glad we were able to help you out.
Thanks for the update of your experience, it will come in handy for other DIY’s reviewing the Repair Forum and taking on a similar repair.
Great Job !!!
Thanks Again,
I need help! I have wired the Dual infinite switch to the wiring instruction but when I leave the two red wires together on P2 the dual burner does not work. When I put the red wire coming from power to the P2 and the red wire going to the next switch in line on 2 the dual burner works but rest of burners do not. It is on a Jennair cook top. Model number CVE3400W.
Mdeudy, Presumaly we’re working with the
AP4008679 Dual Infinite Switch Kit.
You almost had it. The Red wire, common to all the infinite switches will attach to the P2 terminal of the new switch.
The remaining Red wire ( common lead to the left rear element) will attach to the #2 terminal of the new switch.
As long as the remainder of the wiring to the switch is proper, you should be fine.
I switched the wires and it trips the breaker. The switch for the dual burner is first inline from the power. One of the red wires goes to the power and the other red wire goes to the next switch and so on to the other two then to the dual burner.
Hopefully the new switch was not damaged, but we’ll see in a minute.
You’ll be working with both, the left rear “dual” infinite switch and the right front infinite switch.
At the left rear dual switch the double red wire attached to the N terminal on the original switch, will be attached to the P2 terminal of the new switch.
At the right front infinite switch the double red wires attached to the L2 terminal, will need to be separated. The red wire common to all the infinite switches will attach to the L2 terminal of the right front infinite switch. The remaining red wire, which can and should be traced to the left rear element, will need to be re terminated (install terminal on end of wire), and attached to terminal 2 of the new dual infinite switch.
When you’re done wiring the new dual infinite switch :
P1 terminal will have two black wires one end of the jumper wire and black L1 wire common to all the switches (one wire on each P1 terminal).
Terminal 4 will have the blue wire to the inner element ring attached to it.
Terminal 4a will have the purple wire to the outer element ring attached to it.
Terminal S2 will have the orange wire to the indicator light attached to it.
Terminal S1 will have the other end of the jumper wire from P1 terminal attached to it.
P2 terminal will have the double red wire, from the terminal block and common to all the switches attached to it.
Terminal 2 will have a single red wire from the left rear element sensor attached to it.
Once you’re checked and ensured the wiring is correct, restore power to the cooktop and check the burner for proper operation.
I have a Jenn-Air JES9800AAB the the Front-Right Double Burner would only operate on High. I ordered a replacement infinite switch and ran into similar issues that others have had, in that the enclosed instructions were a little confusing. I followed the instructions on the first page for the JES9800AAW which seems to work just fine. The only difference was a minor difference. The ‘brown’ wire was actually ‘tan’ on my stove. I figured tan = brown, so it didn’t cause much confusion.
For the JES9800AAB, the wiring was:
Install the jumper wire from one of the two P1 terminals to the S1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Black wire to the second P1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Single Red wire to the 2 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Red wire to P2 on new switch.
Connect the Single Black wire to S2 on new switch.
Connect the Brown or Tan wire to 4 on new switch.
Connect the Yellow wire to 4A on new switch.
Everything appears to be working correctly now. Thanks for all the info on this forum. It would have been much more confusing without your assistance.
[quote=neilf;834976]I have a Jenn-Air JES9800AAB the the Front-Right Double Burner would only operate on High. I ordered a replacement infinite switch and ran into similar issues that others have had, in that the enclosed instructions were a little confusing. I followed the instructions on the first page for the JES9800AAW which seems to work just fine. The only difference was a minor difference. The ‘brown’ wire was actually ‘tan’ on my stove. I figured tan = brown, so it didn’t cause much confusion.
For the JES9800AAB, the wiring was:
Install the jumper wire from one of the two P1 terminals to the S1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Black wire to the second P1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Single Red wire to the 2 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Red wire to P2 on new switch.
Connect the Single Black wire to S2 on new switch.
Connect the Brown or Tan wire to 4 on new switch.
Connect the Yellow wire to 4A on new switch.
Everything appears to be working correctly now. Thanks for all the info on this forum. It would have been much more confusing without your assistance.[/quote]
Neil, You’re Very Welcome , We’re glad we could help you out.
Sounds like you did a great job. Thanks Again.
[QUOTE=neilf;834976]I have a Jenn-Air JES9800AAB the the Front-Right Double Burner would only operate on High. I ordered a replacement infinite switch and ran into similar issues that others have had, in that the enclosed instructions were a little confusing. I followed the instructions on the first page for the JES9800AAW which seems to work just fine. The only difference was a minor difference. The ‘brown’ wire was actually ‘tan’ on my stove. I figured tan = brown, so it didn’t cause much confusion.
For the JES9800AAB, the wiring was:
Install the jumper wire from one of the two P1 terminals to the S1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Black wire to the second P1 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Single Red wire to the 2 terminal on new switch.
Connect the Double Red wire to P2 on new switch.
Connect the Single Black wire to S2 on new switch.
Connect the Brown or Tan wire to 4 on new switch.
Connect the Yellow wire to 4A on new switch.
Everything appears to be working correctly now. Thanks for all the info on this forum. It would have been much more confusing without your assistance.[/QUOTE]
I also have a JES9800AAb and both of the double burners only operate on high. My question is regarding the left dual burner…there is a blue and an orange wire and wanted to verify the layout for these on the replacement dual infinite switch (12002125). the replacement for the right dual burner was spot on.
thanks so much
[QUOTE=Tiger59;838802]I also have a JES9800AAb and both of the double burners only operate on high. My question is regarding the left dual burner…there is a blue and an orange wire and wanted to verify the layout for these on the replacement dual infinite switch (12002125). the replacement for the right dual burner was spot on.
thanks so much[/QUOTE]
Tiger59, In short, you’re going to follow the same steps as you did on the right front switch. The wire colors will be different, but the procedure will be the same.
P1 terminals will have the L1 (common to all the switches) on one terminal and one end of the jumper wire on the other terminal.
#4 terminal will have the Tan wire(inside ring of element) attached to it.
#4A terminal will have the orange wire(outside element ring) attached to it.
S2 terminal will have the black indicator light wire attached to it.
S1 terminal will have the other end of the jumper wire attached to it.
P2 terminal will have one of the red wires attached to it. ( you’ll need to separate the red wires at the wire terminals, attach the red wire common to all the switches to the P2 terminal).
#2 terminal will have the “left over” red wire attached to it. ( this red wire is routed down to the element and attaches to the “hi limit” switch on the element sensor.
The wiring diagram we have doesn’t show a “blue” wire at the infinite switch. You will need to trace that wire to the termination point and make the appropriate changes to the wires and positions.
I have the CVE3400W and ordered the replacement dual infinite switch 12002125 .
I have been having the same problems with 1) not getting power to the three burners when following the original instructions and 2) flipping the breaker when swapping them.
I noticed that mdeudy6565 did not indicate if the switch still worked after he popped the breaker due to swapping the P2 and 2 red wires (when incorrectly separated). Would it have caused any damage?
I will try the additional instructions you provided and hopefully will resolve this if the switch is still good.
[QUOTE=gte037p;853979]I have the CVE3400W and ordered the replacement dual infinite switch 12002125 .
I have been having the same problems with 1) not getting power to the three burners when following the original instructions and 2) flipping the breaker when swapping them.
I noticed that mdeudy6565 did not indicate if the switch still worked after he popped the breaker due to swapping the P2 and 2 red wires (when incorrectly separated). Would it have caused any damage?
I will try the additional instructions you provided and hopefully will resolve this if the switch is still good.[/QUOTE]
GTE037, Yes, there is a possibility that the switch contacts will get damaged, if the wires are incorrectly connected to the replacement switch. Chances are the switch is damaged, based on the information you supplied.
try and remember that the L2 (red)wire is common to all the infinite switches as is the L1(black) wire. These are both “power in” wires/circuits. You may have to determine which red wire(s) attach to the P2 terminal by checking the voltage on the red wire to chassis ground, with power applied to the cooktop and all the switches in the off position.
The wiring information in the previous posts pertains to 99% of all the machines the switch is used in. So you should be able to trace the termination points of the wires and re wire the new switch properly.
Well, I followed your instructions and disconnected the red wire from the front-right switch that went to the Left-rear heating element sensor. I put a spade connector on it and connected it to 2 of the new dual infinite switch (left-rear). I’ve reconnected power and three elements work, but the left-rear still doesn’t work. The light turns on when I turn the switch either way, but the element doesn’t heat up for either the inner or outer ring.
There is 220v to the red wire of the left-rear dual element. Is there a way to connect power to just verify the operation of the switch before I replace it?
[QUOTE=gte037p;854246]Well, I followed your instructions and disconnected the red wire from the front-right switch that went to the Left-rear heating element sensor. I put a spade connector on it and connected it to 2 of the new dual infinite switch (left-rear). I’ve reconnected power and three elements work, but the left-rear still doesn’t work. The light turns on when I turn the switch either way, but the element doesn’t heat up for either the inner or outer ring.
There is 220v to the red wire of the left-rear dual element. Is there a way to connect power to just verify the operation of the switch before I replace it?[/QUOTE]
gte037, You should not have 220 VAC on a wire, especially at the element. You’re testing it wrong or you have a wiring issue. There should be 120 VAC on the black L1 wire and 120 VAC on the red L2 wire, and 220 VAC across the two wires, at the new switch. And no voltage to the element until the switch is turned on
To voltage test the switch, you’ll need to be very careful, due to the shock hazard, but attach the black L1 wire to the P1 terminal, and the red L2 wire to the P2 terminal. Leave the remainder of wires disconnected. Turn the switch to the high setting and check for 120 VAC out on the no.4 terminal, 120 VAC out on the 4A terminal and 120 VAC out on the no.2 terminal, you’ll use chassis ground as a common and you should have the correct voltages if the switch has not shorted out internally.
The black L1 wire, and the red L2 wire, should have 120 VAC on the terminal, whenever power is applied to the cooktop. The red wire with the voltage, should be attached to the P2 terminal of the new switch, and then jumps around to the L2 terminal on all the other switches.
[QUOTE=Joe / APP Team;243682]Sir,
I am not sure I can be exactly correct in helping you wire your new switch.
Your wiring colors are correct but your switch locations are not, based on my wiring diagram for a JES9800AAW and the new switch configuration.
I will assist you as best I can with the information I have.I will be including the component the wires should be going to so you may varify if you need to.
First, install the jumper wire from P1 to S1 terminals on new switch
Red wire(single) on terminal 4 on old switch should be on terminal 2 on new switch and terminates at burner sensor circuit.
Red wire(dual) on terminal 5 on old switch should be on terminal P2 on new switch and will terminate at terminal block and jump over to the next infinite switch.(two directions).
Black wire (single) on terminal 1 of old switch should be on S2 terminal on new switch and terminate at indicator light.
Black wire(dual) on terminal 2 on old switch should be on P1 terminal on new switch(beside jumper wire connection) and terminate at terminal block and jump to the next infinite switch(two directions).
Brown wire terminal 3 on old switch should be on terminal 4 on new switch and terminate at outside burner element terminal on burner.
Yellow wire terminal 6 on old switch should be on terminal 4A on new switch and terminate at inside burner element terminal on burner.
Test burner operation, low and hi settings and re assemble the unit.
This is a compilation of the information you supplied, the wiring diagram for the unit, and the new switch configuration, and should have you up and running in no time
Thanks for leting us help you[/QUOTE]
I replaced both dual burner switches and wired them as described above. The right front burner works fine. The left rear switch in the the inner burner position is very dim and in the both burner position only powers the outer burner.
[QUOTE=drazlou;909623]I replaced both dual burner switches and wired them as described above. The right front burner works fine. The left rear switch in the the inner burner position is very dim and in the both burner position only powers the outer burner.[/QUOTE]
Drazlou, We’re going to need the model number of your product, so we can trace the wires and circuits to get the rear burner element to work properly.
In the mean time, you’ll want to use a multi meter and check both the inner and outer element ribbons for “closed” circuits and make sure the ribbons aren’t shorted together. you’ll make those checks at the terminals on the side of the element housing. Once we get the model number, we can recheck the wiring and connections at the new switch, and get you up and running.