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ssp123  
#1 Posted : Thursday, February 11, 2010 3:23:28 PM(UTC)
ssp123

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

I have a Maytag dryer that I have no problems with...works great. A few days ago my timer would not stop running and would not shut off the dryer. I replaced the timer. Pretty simple process everything marked and wires are color coded. Now dryer will not start. It is getting power...lights are on. No breakers tripped. Again, was running great.
Any help would be great. Thanks
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, February 11, 2010 3:51:07 PM(UTC)
denman

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Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG LDE9606ACE Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16008714.pdf

Take a look at Page 5-71, you will see 2 thermal fuses inline with the motor, perhaps one of these is blown, both should be 0 ohms. If one of them is blown then get back to us as you still have to try to figure out what caused it to blow and there are different possible causes.

On your original problem. If the timer was not advancing then unless you measured the voltage across the timer motor and saw 120 volts there is no way to tell if the timer or it's control board is the problem.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
ssp123  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, February 16, 2010 6:06:50 PM(UTC)
ssp123

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks. I had a service man look at this problem today. He checked all of the fuses with his voltage meter. No issues. He ran 110 directly to the motor but it still wouldn't start. He determined that the motor was bad. So I am considering a new washer.
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