Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE6700AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a tech sheet and a manual and a bulletin which may apply
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16026881.pdf http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16025911.pdf http://www.servicematters.com/m...rary/docs/TDL-0141-B.pdfI'm hoping someone can help me out the dryer goes through the regular cycle when I dry (spins and everything) except the clothes are still wet like if I never turned it on. I use the fluff cycle (a couple of times at 99 minutes) and the clothes get dry. I am assuming that if you run the unit for a couple 99 minute cycles the clothes will dry independent of cycle type though the above seems to indicate that the clothes will never dry on any cycle other than a Fluff which would be very weird.
My grandpa seems to think the heating element core without having seen it. Grandpa may be correct and since I have 5 grandchildren I just naturally feel I should side with him.
You could try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heater requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing I would check it at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts
If OK
Try the diagnostics to see if it will help narrow the cause down.
If OK or inconclusive
Open the unit up and check the heating coil, should be approximately 10 ohms.
If OK
Check the thermostats in the heater circuit, all should be 0 ohms
If OK
Check the thermistor and the moisture sensor
If OK
Odds are high that the control board is shot.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
