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Hi there: Our 8 year old Whirlpool double oven is completely dead. For the first time ever, we tried out the self cleaning cycle and right after the cycle completed, the unit went dead. The last thing I remember seeing on the digital readout during the end of the self clean cycle was "cool", which tells me it went through the entire self cleaning cycle. The door will open, but the lights do not work and the digital panel is dead.
I tried the breaker switch, it looked fine (it shares a 160 amp breaker with our dryer which is working fine).
Please Help!!
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There is the thermal fuse plugged in the control board which has to be replaced. The thermal fuse Turn off the circuit breaker for the oven. Open the lower oven door. Remove the screw holding the each side trim (#1 on the oven break down diagram) and remove both side trims by pulling them from the bottom toward yourself and down to release from the control panel tabs. Remove the screw on each side of the control panel. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward yourself and upward to release it from the side tabs. Now it's all yours. - The part number for the thermal fuse is AP3110028 Gene. P.S. To avoid such problems it's better not to use the self clean. P.P.S. The 160 Amp breaker is way too much. According to the installation instructions an oven and a dryer must have a separate circuit breakers with no more than 30 to 40 Amps. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS!
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Rank: Member
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Gene:
please see my post from last week; I would greatly appreciate any help you can give me; it begins "no error codes . . . "
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Unfortunately this is beyond my expertise.
Maybe somebody else on the forum can help you better.
Gene.
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:) I just wanted to say thank you for your advice on replacing the thermal fuse as that was the exact problem! We were able to replace the part for around $20 versus having to pay a couple of hundred to have an appliance guy come in. Thank you!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hi sillyshopper,
I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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man this was so dead on and so simple to repair, Gene is the man:D:D:D:D:D
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"Open the lower oven door. Remove the screw holding the each side trim (#1 on the oven break down diagram) and remove both side trims by pulling them from the bottom toward yourself and down to release from the control panel tabs. Remove the screw on each side of the control panel. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward yourself and upward to release it from the side tabs. Now it's all yours."
Many thanks! This repair was easy, thanks to you.
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First, thanks so much for this forum. My issue: Used the Auto Clean. Everything shut down an hour or so into the cycle. Door locked and display blank. I let things cool off and turned off the circuit breaker for about 15 min. Reset breaker with not effect. Found the forum and tried to find the thermal fuse to see if that might be the issue. Found what I think is the fuse but it does not seem to be blown. See attachment. So is this the fuse? Is it blown? If it looks ok, what is the next thing to check? Thanks, Greg  wgbergman attached the following image(s):
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Yes that is the thermal fuse.
You have to measure it with a meter to tell if it is blown.
Should be 0 ohms.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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