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richappy  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, September 29, 2009 1:44:47 PM(UTC)
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richappy

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Subject washer will only tumble the spin basket during the wash and spin cycles, but will not do high speed spin during spin.
Hope someone has seen this before, thanks in advance.
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ThatGuy  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, July 27, 2010 6:07:50 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Subject washer will only tumble the spin basket during the wash and spin cycles, but will not do high speed spin during spin.
Hope someone has seen this before, thanks in advance.


I hate to resurrect old posts, but I have a very similar problem and need help.

I have been working on the same WFC7500VW0 front loader. The customer's complaint was it only spins in the morning or on the first load. I ran it though two sets of self diagnostic tests and the washer spins just fine.

But when wet clothes are placed in the basket, and the washer is set on "spin" only it just sits there. Tumbling and draining over and over. I thought the cycle was taking forever, so I started timing it a 13 minutes left. Three minutes later it still said "13" minutes left and was still tumbling and draining. The door lock light comes on, and the door locks.

I'm wondering about the pressure switch. The test procedure in the manual looks like it was written by a 6 year old in another language. It has two blue wires to it and two brown. When blowing into the switch I get continuity on the two blue, but never on the two brown.

The wiring diagram is a joke, as is the picture of where to put your test leads on the pressure switch. Its a crying shame we can't build anything in America anymore.

I'm down to the place where I think its either the pressure switch or the CCU. Any help would be appreciated.

I've noticed several people on the Internet have this problem, but no one seems to know whats causing it.
richappy  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, July 27, 2010 7:36:45 AM(UTC)
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Monitor the current into the speed control board main two wire power connector, black and white wires. If well over 3 amp, the bearings are bad and causing the speed control board to shut down on overload.
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, July 27, 2010 8:33:00 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Monitor the current into the speed control board main two wire power connector, black and white wires. If well over 3 amp, the bearings are bad and causing the speed control board to shut down on overload.


I believe, based on your description, your problem would be in the pressure switch and or the switch wiring harness,to or from the control unit.

A continous tumble, drain, indicates the control thinks it is overfilled or in a suds detect mode,and not draining proper, all are ascociated to the water level switch or wiring.

Yes, it could be a improper input due to motor drag, bad bearings, but I don't think I would start there.But it is an easy test with an amp meter.

Hope this will help
ThatGuy  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:45:41 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Monitor the current into the speed control board main two wire power connector, black and white wires. If well over 3 amp, the bearings are bad and causing the speed control board to shut down on overload.


Would this happen even in test mode? (It spins like crazy in test mode, load or no load). This particular machine is barely over a year old. So bad bearing are unlikely, but as I have learned over the past 20 years of servicing appliances, nothing is impossible. Especially with the quality parts we are getting now. I'll try the amp test when I go to work on it next time. Thanks!
ThatGuy  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:59:40 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
I believe, based on your description, your problem would be in the pressure switch and or the switch wiring harness,to or from the control unit.

A continuous tumble, drain, indicates the control thinks it is overfilled or in a suds detect mode,and not draining proper, all are associated to the water level switch or wiring.

Yes, it could be a improper input due to motor drag, bad bearings, but I don't think I would start there.But it is an easy test with an amp meter.

Hope this will help


That's the conclusion I came up with, especially after finding out that one of the brown wires never makes contact with anything in the p switch in either state. Like I said the job aid #8178738 is kind of a joke. The wires are OK all the way back to the CCU so either its the pressure switch, CCU, or perhaps the motor. I ordered a P switch, but the closest one is in Texas and I'm in Nebraska, so its going to be Friday before it shows up.

I'm pretty much in the middle of nowhere and this is the first one of these I've had the pleasure of working on. I think there is an excellent chance it will be the last one I willingly work on. What a pain to service. (its in a 5Th wheel bathroom in a tiny closet) I looked up the CCU and its $277 my cost so its probably the real problem. And people say I'm negative. ; ) 20 years of doing this will make you that way eventually. Thanks!
ThatGuy  
#7 Posted : Saturday, July 31, 2010 6:49:04 AM(UTC)
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Well, I got the new pressure switch and the bad news is it tests just like the old one. So the test procedure in the job aid is garbage. I'm going to put the old pressure switch back in and check the motor amperage. If that's not it, its back to the drawing board. BTW the motor is like $600. Is that ridiculous or what. I did find out that the lady that owns it hasn't been using HE detergent.
Joe / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Monday, August 2, 2010 8:26:58 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: ThatGuy Go to Quoted Post
That's the conclusion I came up with, especially after finding out that one of the brown wires never makes contact with anything in the p switch in either state. Like I said the job aid #8178738 is kind of a joke. The wires are OK all the way back to the CCU so either its the pressure switch, CCU, or perhaps the motor. I ordered a P switch, but the closest one is in Texas and I'm in Nebraska, so its going to be Friday before it shows up.

I'm pretty much in the middle of nowhere and this is the first one of these I've had the pleasure of working on. I think there is an excellent chance it will be the last one I willingly work on. What a pain to service. (its in a 5Th wheel bathroom in a tiny closet) I looked up the CCU and its $277 my cost so its probably the real problem. And people say I'm negative. ; ) 20 years of doing this will make you that way eventually. Thanks!


Could you please supply me with the job aid Number or the wiring diagram number.

I still believe your problem is still, in the wiring harness or air dome hose.

In general :

Disconnect the air dome hose from the pressure switch.

Disconnect the pressure switch harness from the CCU(PR6).

Check the suds circuit (pin 1 to pin 2) on the harness connector. should be a open circuit.

Check pin 4 to pin 6 on the harness, should be a closed circuit(tub empty).

When you fill the tub(air dome attached) :

Pin 1 to pin 2 should remain open.

Pin 4 to pin 6 should be an open circuit.

Pin 4 to pin 5 should close as well as pin 4 to pin3.

Any other readings in the test(s) would mis inform the CCU, and the unit won't spin (CCU thinks water is in the tub).

I can be more exact if you can supply the wiring diagram number or job aid number.
ThatGuy  
#9 Posted : Thursday, August 12, 2010 8:26:04 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Monitor the current into the speed control board main two wire power connector, black and white wires. If well over 3 amp, the bearings are bad and causing the speed control board to shut down on overload.


Went back on this washer a few days ago after ordering a new pressure switch. Didn't even take the pressure switch out of its bag. Just tested it through the bag and found it tested exactly the same as the old switch. That tells me that the "test" procedure in the job aid 8178738 (see post no.6) is a bad joke. This same job aid has almost nothing to say about why the washer would have trouble spinning.

I reassembled the washer checked the amperage to the motor. It would spike briefly over 3 amps when it went into high speed spin, but never really exceeded 3 amps. I checked every connection and wire that I could see. All seemed OK. Ran it through the tests and through the spin only cycle. Worked perfectly without clothes. I asked the customer about overloading and soap use. Apparently they have been using regular soap and the husband indicated that the wife likes to overload it.

I told them to use only HE soap and to cut down the size of the loads. It might have been a loose connection, the husband had taken it apart several times before I worked on it. So its hard to say now.

Thanks for all the help guys! TG
sqott  
#10 Posted : Friday, February 13, 2015 4:11:32 PM(UTC)
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For the benefit of others with this problem I had the same exact situation, pressure switch and all. So I ended up just removing all the wiring plugs from the machine control board and re-installing them. Washer spun out perfectly, so it was a poor wiring connection somewhere in that board.
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