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The dishwasher appears to have no power. The outlet works fine. It just stopped working one day. Any ideas, I'm pretty handy once I get headed in the right direction
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL DU945PWPQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208535431.pdf A possibility is the fuse, Item 4 in the "Frame and console" section Next would be the door latch switches The above assumes that power is getting into the unit and it is not just a bad wire nut connection. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Originally Posted by: denman Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL DU945PWPQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208535431.pdf A possibility is the fuse, Item 4 in the "Frame and console" section Next would be the door latch switches The above assumes that power is getting into the unit and it is not just a bad wire nut connection. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. hEY THERE, THE TECH SHEET FOR THIS DISHWASHER IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE HERE? ANYWAY YOU CAN SEND ME A LINK FOR ANOTHER ONE PLEASE? THANK YOU
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Please see the attachment |
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My wife went to wash dishes the other day and the whirlpool dishwasher filled up but would not start wash cycle nor drain when I pushed cancel. I checked for clog in hoses. Any suggestons where to start?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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You have to do more troubleshooting.
Does the unit seem totally dead? If yes then the thermal fuse may have blown.
Is the pump getting voltage but not starting? |
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