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Originally Posted by: eggy  ...Last night it just 'died'... Can you describe it more detailed? Does anything work? How about lights inside and water dispenser? Gene.
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Very well written article. This is very helpful to a non pro especially. There are some "Pros" out there who could benefit as well..
Again it was written in a very real easy to understand style, like someone would explain it to you in person and NOT sound like a engineer who writes manuals. Thank you
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Kenmore dryer 110.96281100. Need to know how to test thermal cut off & high limit? Originally Posted by: Gene
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Remove the wires from them and test both for continuity.
Gene.
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Nicely written. I am familiar with testing equipment, but I don't do it on a regular basis, therefore, it is helpful to have an article to fall back on.
Very kind of you to be so helpful to others. It is much appreciated.
Take care.
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Thanks for the info, I hate to sound dumb, but I never ne any of this info. Now I do and it will really help a lot. Thaks...:o
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In my Kenmore side-X-side refrigerator, I believe the solenoid for the crushed/whole cube ice selector is bad (I get no reaction pushing the door button when the door switch is depressed as well). I'm assuming this will be a continuity test? If there is an 'infinity' amount of resistance will it be bad? Doh? So, unplug the fridge, remove the wires and test the connectors...ta da!
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Very helpful, still reading,learning, thanks.
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I have a dual burner (Jenn Air JEC9536ADS)not working and want to check the control unit. Has a L1 and L2, however not a H1 and H2. There is a common (3) and an inner (2) and an outter (1). How would I properly test the control?
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