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Originally Posted by: woodchuckie thanks woodchukie 4 reply . do u think this electronic adaptive defrost control work if i buy a new one. well so refer. will start cooling thanks jaime
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Originally Posted by: Jaime Perez thanks woodchukie 4 reply . do u think this electronic adaptive defrost control work if i buy a new one. well so refer. will start cooling thanks jaime Yes, that is the only part left to the defrost system.
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thanks woodchuckie keep u posted
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Hi Gene, I'm having a similar problem. I own a 3 year old Samsung RS230SH, Replacement parts for MAYTAG RS2630SH | AppliancePartsPros.com. I found the service manual, http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...cs/SAM0096.pdf. (1) The refrigerator and freezer side gets warm after resetting. It functions properly for less than a month (2) I noticed the the back wall of the freezer (part 11) was partially iced up. I was able to test for continuity on the sensor(part 16) and heater(part 19) from this diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...67&NewWindow=1. (1) The problem I have now is that I can't test for continuity on the thermistor(part 13). From my understanding, the circuit would be open if warm and closed if cold. I've placed the thermistor in another freezer and left it overnight so that it could be cold. I am still not getting any continuity from it. Does that mean that it's bad? Did I test it correctly? (2) I also checked what I believe is another thermistor but has no part # that is located behind part 3 from this diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...67&NewWindow=1. On page 26 of the service manual, http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...cs/SAM0096.pdf, they reference it as part 5-3 but it doesn't tell me what part or part# it is. It looks identical to the thermistor(part 13) except that the wire is about 1/4 inch longer. I also can't get continuity from this sensor either. Can someone tell me if this is the same part? And is it possible that both sensors are bad? (3) I also tried to test for continuity on the fan motor (part 7) but I didn't get any readings. I know that the fan shuts off when I open the freezer door, so I pressed the door switch to "imitate" that the door was closed but still didn't get anything. Do you think the fan is bad too? If the fan doesn't work, could it be one of the reasons why I'm having frost and both sides not working properly? I'm planning to order the thermistor but not sure if I should order two and plus a fan motor. Thanks in advance for your help. /Stan
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Originally Posted by: vng ...(1) The problem I have now is that I can't test for continuity on the thermistor(part 13). From my understanding, the circuit would be open if warm and closed if cold. I've placed the thermistor in another freezer and left it overnight so that it could be cold. I am still not getting any continuity from it. Does that mean that it's bad? Did I test it correctly?... Hi Stan, This part is bad. No doubt about it. I would do one thing at a time. Replace this part and hopefully it will solve the problem. Gene.
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Hi Gene ,
I have Frigidaire frs26zsh b2 and like everybody else the fridge side is not cold. Found the lower coils (bottom of the fridge ) but the diagram I looked up it seems there is second one.. I removed the panel in the back, but cannot locate the condenser. Any advice will be appreciated. Note: The fan in the fridge is not even blowing.
Thank you, Victor
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The coil has no frost and there's no frost inside the freezer. Also the fan in the freezer is blowing and seems to be in working order. There was a grinding noise for awhile before the fridge side went out.
Thanks again, Victor
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Have you cleaned the condenser?
Gene.
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Hi Gene,
Let me start off by saying sorry! The back of the freezer and condenser is a block of ice. I asked my wife to check for me before I posted. :mad: I went home and checked myself,load and behold frost and ice So its definitely a defroster problem from what I am reading.Which part can you recommend me to replace. Coils where also cleaned.
Thank you , Victor
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