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Hi everyone, new here. Thanks in advance for all and any help.
So, my Maytag washer (MAVT546EWW) is leaking at the tub seal. I'm about to order parts to replace the seal and I was hoping someone here could verify that the only 2 parts I'll need to order are:
1. Spanner wrench AP3856712
2. Tub and Seal Kit AP4025154
Are there any other parts I'll need to complete this job? Also, I've read that this job is "somewhat difficult". Anyone have any DIY horror stories that may dissuade me from attempting this repair and simply buy a new washer instead? Sometimes with jobs like this there is collateral damage (seized/broken/stripped hardware, busted clamps, corroded hoses, etc) that wind up making the repair cost ineffective. The parts listed above will total about $84.00. Worth it if it works, but would hate to blow the $84 and still end up buying a new washer because it turns out I need to spend much more to fix this one.
Thanks.
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Cannot say what the final cost will be as you probably will not know what other parts need replacing (if any) until yo disassemble it. The following should come in handy Here are your parts Replacement parts for MAYTAG MAVT546EWW WASHER-TOP LOADING | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a service manual that includes this unit. http://appliancedigest.c...ad-washer-service-manualYou have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer. And finally see the attachment for the install sheet that comes with the kit. Also if you click on the parts item/picture is the parts a new [age will open with more views/info and a Q&A section. Juts click on the Q to see the A. |
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Denman, correct me if I'm wrong, but he needs a bearing puller to get the old hub and bearing out.
I have never done this job, but in the past, I have seen pictures of badly rusted hubs that looked very difficult to pull out.
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I do not think he will know if he needs a puller till he pulls it apart.
Who knows it may not badly that badly rusted.
In any case I would try penetrating oil (liquid wrench) before investing in a puller. |
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Thanks so much for the info, it's very much appreciated. Although, the service manual link isn't working for me. I registered, and still no luck. Tried searching the sight for it and nothing came up.
Also, I opened the hub kit pdf and it's showing a different spanner wrench than the one I ordered. I think that might be due to the updated hub design in 2005, which (hopefully) requires the spanner wrench I ordered. My unit appears to be a 2006.
I also see the hub kit pdf specifies that a spring removal tool is necessary. Do I really need this tool, or can I just muscle/pry the springs off with some vice grips or other common tool?
Thanks again.
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You will not need the spring stretcher tool, I never used one as I used vice grips, but you may need help getting the rear springs on. I last used another person on top to help get them on.
A neat trick is to use a bunch of thick washers to expand the springs, have done that before.
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Just completed the tub seal (and drive belt) replacement. The whole job took about 3.5 hours. I did not need the spanner wrench. Was able to remove the housing/bearing using 2 allen wrenches stuck in 2 of the 4 holes and an adjustable wrench as a lever against the allen wrenches. It worked very well. Also did not need the spring tool, but it was tricky getting the rear springs back on due to cramped space and tricky access. I did use the flat washer trick for one of the rear springs.
So, no more leak, and with the new drive belt the washer runs and sounds like new. Can't believe how quiet this unit is now. Total cost about $70.00. Thanks for the help guys.
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Scanloni,
I'm in the same predicament and am having to replace the transmission. I'm using a similar leverage method as you did. When trying to loosen/remove the transmission hub/seal, the entire transmission is spinning and it seems that I'm going nowhere.
What's needed to loosen the hub? Any tips or suggestions?
Thank you,
D
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Originally Posted by: DSnider  Scanloni,
I'm in the same predicament and am having to replace the transmission. I'm using a similar leverage method as you did. When trying to loosen/remove the transmission hub/seal, the entire transmission is spinning and it seems that I'm going nowhere.
What's needed to loosen the hub? Any tips or suggestions?
Thank you,
D D, I used a ratchet strap underneath to prevent the transmission from spinning. One side hooked to the tranny, the other side hooked to the frame.
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