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Johnslagirl  
#221 Posted : Tuesday, November 9, 2010 4:49:02 AM(UTC)
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Johnslagirl

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My fridge has been clicking non stop since yesterday it's model number is GBS22KBSAWW. Serial number VH042634. I was wondering if this fridges motherboard was under the replacement policy? If not what part do I need to order to fix it thanks
Gene  
#222 Posted : Tuesday, November 9, 2010 12:23:02 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Originally Posted by: Johnslagirl Go to Quoted Post
My fridge has been clicking non stop since yesterday it's model number is GBS22KBSAWW. Serial number VH042634. I was wondering if this fridges motherboard was under the replacement policy? If not what part do I need to order to fix it thanks


Your refrigerator may be eligible for the free of charge main control board replacement. You have to contact GE Consumer Relations.

Gene.
Pilm  
#223 Posted : Friday, November 12, 2010 7:13:51 AM(UTC)
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Pilm

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Big thank you to the fellow from Costa Rica who posted about replacing the two 470uF 25V caps and the fellow who posted the very helpful pictures!!! I replaced the two caps and everything is working like a charm, and only cost me $3.19! I was so pleased plugging the board back in and then the frig, and then only hearing a single click as the compressor fan started up, just like it's supposed to do! :D

I picked up the caps at Radio Shack, they had 470uF 35V, so got an even better voltage rating than the OEM part. BTW, my cap's weren't burnt but I could tell they were swollen, the tops of the part were rounded instead of flat! It does appear part of the problem might be these caps are located right next to the heatsink for a voltage regulator, and the heat may cause the cap to swell and fail. :eek:

As far as replacing the caps, it's pretty straightforward, just make sure you have or buy some solder wick to remove the solder from the leads on the back of the board, then use needle nose pliers to wiggle the cap loose from the top side. Once the part is out, just fit the leads of the new cap in the holes (note: these are polarized caps, so just make sure you keep the negative cap lead facing toward the center of the board and you'll avoid any fireworks), and apply a bit of solder to the backside leads, clip off any excess lead length on the back of the board, and you are ready to go. Oh, and as others have said, locate the caps away from the heatsink of the regulator so they aren't touching this heat source.

Again, big thanks to those posting on the cap replacement, saved us over a $100 for a new board! And thanks to the website host for providing a great forum to discuss this problem!
electriccat  
#224 Posted : Monday, January 3, 2011 10:08:57 PM(UTC)
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are located right next to the heat sinks of control board op-amps. those electrolytic caps are sensitive to heat, as heat decrease their expected lifespan by %50 per 10 C. Must be a rookie did the PCB layout, as an experienced EE would have caught that.
xxsurfersxx  
#225 Posted : Sunday, January 30, 2011 4:24:14 PM(UTC)
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xxsurfersxx

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I have the same clicking issues. I can not find the make or part in the systems though. GE:

Serial Number: SH218366

Various part numbers on the board:

WKKT 0158-00-04
200D4854G013
0205DG or 0205D6
Gene  
#226 Posted : Sunday, January 30, 2011 5:48:52 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Originally Posted by: xxsurfersxx Go to Quoted Post
I have the same clicking issues. I can not find the make or part in the systems though. GE:

Serial Number: SH218366

Various part numbers on the board:

WKKT 0158-00-04
200D4854G013
0205DG or 0205D6


We need the complete model number of the refrigerator. It should be on the same name plate where you found the serial number.

Gene.
xxsurfersxx  
#227 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 2:42:47 PM(UTC)
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xxsurfersxx

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Model #
GSH25JFRF CC
Gene  
#228 Posted : Monday, January 31, 2011 5:38:56 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Pull the refrigerator out of the wall and pinpoint the clicking noise. If it's coming from the main control board (#801 on the diagram) then check for 120 VAC at the connector J7-9 to the terminal J8.

If the reading is incorrect, the main control board has to be replaced.

Your refrigerator may be eligible for the free of charge main control board replacement. You have to call GE consumer relations department.

- The main control board Part number: AP4436216
JLMEND11  
#229 Posted : Tuesday, February 8, 2011 8:31:48 PM(UTC)
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:confused: Hear clicking sound at back of fridge at mother board when using ice dispenser. Ice dispenser is not dispensing, also when clicking starts compressor and condenser fan quit working. I have to unplug fridge,compressor and the condenser fan wait a few minutes then plug everything back then clicking is gone. Everthing works fine until I try to use the ice dispenser again. Does this sound like the mother board. Please help...thanks? (GE model# GSH25JFRFBB)
jarnohams  
#230 Posted : Wednesday, February 16, 2011 6:36:24 PM(UTC)
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jarnohams

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The ole GE's been clicking here and there for a few weeks then it went to clicking for about an hour or so before finally kicking in. Ordered the replacement motherboard but it would be another 5-7 (business days) for it to arrive and the clicking is too obnoxious in a studio type condo to be able to sleep.

Grabbed the Radio Shack capacitors for $1.49 and a soldering iron for $8 and at least i can sleep until the new motherboard comes in. It was painfully obvious as to what capacitors were the problem. Thanks for the pics... but they essentially fell apart at even touching them with pliers and were burnt to a crisp. Another reason I'm still replacing the entire thing is because the faulty capacitors got so fried they started to melt the whole area around them is burned as well as a that little capacitor next to the bigger ones.

The $5 capacitor fix is some of the best advice i have read on the internet in ages.

Thanks so much for that... truly, truly appreciated.
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