The temp readouts on my PDS22SFSBRSS were flickering for a while (not sure how long, since I had been away until a week ago), and then the clicking started (and the temp displays went from rapid dim-full flickering to on-off flickering in time with the clicks). I isolated the clicks to control board, searched the internet, and found this thread.

I was able to get a replacement board quickly, but it wasn't a new one (newest model number, just not a new board). I plugged it in, and... click...click...click.

Great, the replacement's bad, too.

The old board doesn't have any obviously bad solder joints or burned out components, so I plugged it back in. One click, and the condenser kicked in. Loose or corroded connect, maybe? It didn't look like it. At some point overnight, the clicking started again. So much for the miracle fix.

I got a little more methodical at this point. I didn't want to get yet another control board if it was actually some other component causing the problem indirectly. I started checking voltages, and found that the J2-3,8 voltage was 11.7 V. Pulling off the access panel, I could see that the condenser fan was not turning on with the condenser. I swapped in the newer board, and the clicking returned. However, with each click the fan turned a fraction and the voltage on the J2-3,8 circuit was 13.something V.

I wasn't sure about the timing of my different efforts, but started to wonder. Could the old board's only failure is be the fan voltage? If the condenser overheats, would the overload shut it down, causing the click/fail cycle until the condenser's temp falls again? I pointed a fan at the coils (panel still off) after the clicks started again early this morning, and after a while the condenser started. Not sure if it's related though. To check some more, I swapped in the newer board (leaving the fan running throughout the process) to see if it would work with known-to-be-cooled parts. No such luck. Click...click...click.

At this point, I'm looking at either two bad boards (with the old one being right at the edge of the click-of-death) or an off-board issue that affects the two board's differently (different tolerances to line levels?), or one of each...

Before I get another (new) control board, I may try to swap out the capacitors on the original board when I get home tonight. Which caps are associated with the relay circuit, and which (if any) are associated with the condenser fan circuit? The two resistors look ok (haven't taken a meter to them, though...). Any other components to consider?

Thanks,

--Mike

Same problem here on a GE GDS20KBSAWW here is a picture of capacitors

What capacitor should i use to replace them ??

Thanks!

I have a GE model GDS20SBSBSS, constant clicking from the main board. compressor doesn't turn on, fan doesn't turn on. is the same problem with the main board? Refrigerator was purchased in 2005. Would the replacement board be still covered by the policy? is it possible that the compressor has been damaged too?