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raderrustler  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 4, 2009 8:33:49 PM(UTC)
raderrustler

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Joined: 1/4/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

I have a Maytag builtin 30" oven, The touchpad will not beep when I depress the Bake button, The 6 numeral, or the 9 numeral the oven light button does not beep either. The Broil feature works as well as the keep warm warm feature which tells me both elements (broil top,and Bake lower are working. All the other buttons beep when depressed. I am wondering if this could be a Control panel issue part ap3495120, or could the Clock, part ap3127552 be causing the control panel to not beep. Both parts are over a hundred dollars and where I live it is a 50 dollar surcharge on top of a 90 dollar inspection fee...very pricey. I do almost allAny help would be appreciated as I am not a rich person. Is there a way to check the control panel functions? or is blind guess and keep replacing parts the accepted method. Thanks in advance.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, January 5, 2009 1:55:55 AM(UTC)
denman

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here is your parts breakdown
Model MEW5530DDB

Here is a service manual and a tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16022506.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16022507.pdf

You will notice that 6, 10 and Bake keys all have track 10 on the ribbon cable in common (See Tech Sheet , Page 4 , Maytag Matrix).

Unplug the oven
Open up the control console
Unplug the keyboard ribbon cable from the control board.
If the ribbon cable is clear plastic check the tracks for hairline cracks, a magnifying glass helps here.
If the cable is the type where they just remove the insulation for an edge connector. The cable end can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser, it is too abrasive.
Would not hurt to also clean the connector on the control board. Use electronics cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and also make sure all the solvent has evaporated before reconnecting.
With a little luck all it needs is a cleaning.

If the above does not work.
The tech sheet does give the procedure for checking the keys with a multimeter. If you have a meter I would do this before reconnecting the cable above.

You will need a meter. If you do not have one I would suggest you purchase one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
raderrustler  
#3 Posted : Monday, January 5, 2009 7:05:47 PM(UTC)
raderrustler

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/4/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks for the info on the ribbon cables, I have a couple of good fluke meters and a modelers magnifying glass. I will check out what I can and see what develops and post back with results....Thanks again, Great Site:)
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