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dh1200s  
#41 Posted : Monday, February 7, 2011 5:41:47 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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""It seems like a poor design but mine lasted over 6 years so maybe that'd be ok if they made it easier to fix and not tell you to junk it and buy a new washer.&#8221;&#8221;

Yep that is how I see it.

You will find that most folks won&#8217;t take this on. I ordered a new machine around the 3.5 yr mark when I started taking DC/UC errors in Spin Cycle. On the Way home from HD I started asking myself what the heck was going on here. I found a post on a site where an owner had an extended warranty with Sears and the Sears RT came on site and changed out the whole outer tub for DC/UC errors in Spin Cycle! Guess that&#8217;s how they do it when $ in no object.

Did a little more digging and found a few references to the Clutch Pulley. Then the technician/troubleshooter in me kicked in and I started turning over rocks on the issue.

I canceled the HD order for the new machine and the rest is history. My wife who bought/ordered the machine back in 05 while on a trip to Fla to see her brother is a little dismayed when I tell her that the machine will last to 2020 and beyond with an occasional tear down for an Outer Tub re-build :)

You will find the machine with the exception of the drain pump/pressure switch location is fairly easy to work on/repair and replace parts.

When you get it back together use the onboard diag&#8217;s. Take a peek of the recorded diag code blocks then clear the list. Record your machines Cycle Count. Turn on the functions i.e. water inlet valves/dispenser valves, lid locks and watch those pressure switch transitions as the machine fills/empties (NF&ND error code troubleshooting) etc.

Do the thru the lid checks of the TDS range of motion check (I have pic&#8217;s of the D.C. voltage readings range of motion signaling to the Control Board). These are good base line machine health checks and just becoming familiar with using onboard functional testing/diags.

The Motor Controller and Drive Motor seem to be engineered/matched fairly well. I have seen owners replace the Control Board for no Spin, the Motor Controller for no spin/agitation but the drive motor/tranny seems to be a tank. I&#8217;m sure that's why it they have a 10 yr. warranty.

I have seen owners post with occasional over fill/flood conditions that were related to Stuck Open Water Inlet Valve and Stuck Pressure Switch but that&#8217;s not chronic and I feel no worse then other machine models.

I have tried to make sure the family goes easy with the hE detergent and the bleach dispenser location is hard on the Left Hand Lid Lock and TDS (corrosion issues).

Andy let us know how the Spinner Support scoring works out.

You gent&#8217;s are deep into the bowels of the machine and doing great......GIT-R-DONE!

Dick
rambler2411  
#42 Posted : Monday, February 7, 2011 6:11:40 AM(UTC)
rambler2411

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Hi Guys,

I've been thinking about this. All the washers have what we call a "rotating feedthrough" in the vacuum industry. This washer has a compound version, with one drive shaft inside the other. That tub seal is probably as good as any of them get, but I think Mike's vaseline idea is a real good one. I have an inert colorless oil (TorrLube) I'll use to condition the o-ring. Most grease that breaks loose will float and coat the outer tub, so I doubt we'll be looking at clothes with grease stains.

My brothers work in the marine industry. I'm going to ask them what the propeller shaft seals look like. I'm sure they leak, too.

I'll work the surface over with fine emery cloth and use Vaseline on it. BTW, on the rusty parts, once they are wire-brushed clean, you can drive any dampness off with Heet (methanol engine starter) then rub some protective grease on them when they're dry.

This is actually a lot of fun. The machine is a complex piece of mechanical engineering, and it's unique. It's very cool to see how the engineers worked through the issues and made this thing work.

I also own a Kenmore Series 90, on which I've replaced the Driver Coupler and the Timer. Parts for that are available all the time on ********. That thing is a tank, but its tub is starting to have rust spots where the enamel is worn off. What's really cool about the Series 90 is that the whole cover slips off, leaving you total access all around the machine.

I should have my new clutch by Friday. If I have time, I'll work on cleaning parts until then. You guys have a great week.

Best,

Andy
dnmll  
#43 Posted : Monday, February 7, 2011 11:13:16 AM(UTC)
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HI guys I checked the left lid lock location and removed the lock and unplugged the wiring and I dont see any signs of corrosion yet unless I'm in the wrong place I think it's good so far. I got everything pretty clean now so just waiting for parts. I suppose there will be a lot of people with these problems soon since the seals seem to go bad in the 4 to 7 year range. I'm working on my spa pump also for a seal between the motor and the wet end because it was dripping and they recommend replacing the seal every year. If not then corrosion builds up and locks the shaft to impeller. Maybe the wash tub seal would have been better on the bottom or made to be able to replace without a complete tear down. (btw the spa seal is the same age as the tub seal because I built my house and installed them at the same time. As I did with all my appliances and I seem to have several needing some repair lately so maybe that's in the design for a product cycle?)
dnmll  
#44 Posted : Monday, February 7, 2011 11:21:40 AM(UTC)
dnmll

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On a side note maybe they should have recommended a service plan with preventative maintenance like cleaning and lube parts like the clutch bearings and corrosion control. They could probably make good money with volume and provide some jobs while they're at it.
dh1200s  
#45 Posted : Monday, February 7, 2011 11:54:07 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Going to send you a interesting read/link from another forum.

You guys are aware that you have to replace the Outer Tub to replace the Outer Tub bearings in the FAV6800A/FAV9800A..........right:eek:

e-mail to follow with link........Dick
dnmll  
#46 Posted : Monday, February 7, 2011 5:35:16 PM(UTC)
dnmll

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HA ha that's funny. Just think if we were service men and knew exactly what to do to fix these machines. I would fix them on the side and "clean up" pun intended.lol. I would just come up with a flat price, order all parts, (tub seal, o-ring, clutch, and 4 bearings)and when I had the parts I would show up and do all work necessary and salvage the good parts for a future repair. After a couple of times I think you could do it pretty fast. Not to mention all the other work you would pick up.
rambler2411  
#47 Posted : Tuesday, February 8, 2011 8:48:19 PM(UTC)
rambler2411

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Hi Guys,

Well, it would be hard to justify changing out the whole tub, knowing what we know now. Thanks to Dick. There's a guy o ******** trying to get $350 for one of these that needs a clutch and a spinner support. :eek: Ouch.

I have noticed something worth looking at: the seat on the Spinner Support where the o-ring sits - it seals the transmission to the Spinner Support - make sure it's smooth and clean. The rusty crud I found caked around the top bearing in the Spinner Support was undoubtedly due to water leaking through this seal.

Andy
dh1200s  
#48 Posted : Tuesday, February 8, 2011 10:58:42 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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""There's a guy o ******** trying to get $350 for one of these that needs a clutch and a spinner support.""

That machine will be on the block forever. Whats wrong with the spinner support of the above machine? Is it missing?

""I have noticed something worth looking at: the seat on the Spinner Support where the o-ring sits - it seals the transmission to the Spinner Support - make sure it's smooth and clean.""

Yep a good clean up is key. Andy, how does the caged needle bearing look in the Spinner Support Clutch Pulley end?
rambler2411  
#49 Posted : Wednesday, February 9, 2011 9:27:54 AM(UTC)
rambler2411

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Dick,

I ordered new bearings for the Spinner Support. I have to give that thing a little TLC. The old ones looked shaky.

I don't know why the guy on you-know-where thinks he needs a spinner support. Maybe the repairman told him. It's a pain to clean up - but new ones are $240.

I just finished a big project for a client, so I'm going to get going on the washer again.

Best,

Andy
dnmll  
#50 Posted : Thursday, February 10, 2011 4:07:18 AM(UTC)
dnmll

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Well guys great news. I got all the parts last night about 2:00pm and had it back together by 5:00pm. Every thing works and no leak so far. I left the front panel off so I can watch it for a bit. I ran the spin test and it hit 850rpm so we ran one quick wash with hot water and bleach just to clean any grease or vaseline off. I ran another with whites and it is working great. I'm glad I replaced all the bearings because it is so quiet now. We didn't realize it had gotten louder. I lubed the new clutch with slick 50 one lube and it locked up like it was suppose to. When I first tried to spin it you had to spin hard but now it locks immediately. I put vaseline on the o-ring and the tub seal. I can't thank you enough Dick and Andy. I have been off work with a broken hand and had my wife helping me. Right now I have more time than money so it was nice to be able to get it back running without buying a new one. Thanks again.
Mike
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