""It seems like a poor design but mine lasted over 6 years so maybe that'd be ok if they made it easier to fix and not tell you to junk it and buy a new washer.””

Yep that is how I see it.

You will find that most folks won’t take this on. I ordered a new machine around the 3.5 yr mark when I started taking DC/UC errors in Spin Cycle. On the Way home from HD I started asking myself what the heck was going on here. I found a post on a site where an owner had an extended warranty with Sears and the Sears RT came on site and changed out the whole outer tub for DC/UC errors in Spin Cycle! Guess that’s how they do it when $ in no object.

Did a little more digging and found a few references to the Clutch Pulley. Then the technician/troubleshooter in me kicked in and I started turning over rocks on the issue.

I canceled the HD order for the new machine and the rest is history. My wife who bought/ordered the machine back in 05 while on a trip to Fla to see her brother is a little dismayed when I tell her that the machine will last to 2020 and beyond with an occasional tear down for an Outer Tub re-build :)

You will find the machine with the exception of the drain pump/pressure switch location is fairly easy to work on/repair and replace parts.

When you get it back together use the onboard diag’s. Take a peek of the recorded diag code blocks then clear the list. Record your machines Cycle Count. Turn on the functions i.e. water inlet valves/dispenser valves, lid locks and watch those pressure switch transitions as the machine fills/empties (NF&ND error code troubleshooting) etc.

Do the thru the lid checks of the TDS range of motion check (I have pic’s of the D.C. voltage readings range of motion signaling to the Control Board). These are good base line machine health checks and just becoming familiar with using onboard functional testing/diags.

The Motor Controller and Drive Motor seem to be engineered/matched fairly well. I have seen owners replace the Control Board for no Spin, the Motor Controller for no spin/agitation but the drive motor/tranny seems to be a tank. I’m sure that's why it they have a 10 yr. warranty.

I have seen owners post with occasional over fill/flood conditions that were related to Stuck Open Water Inlet Valve and Stuck Pressure Switch but that’s not chronic and I feel no worse then other machine models.

I have tried to make sure the family goes easy with the hE detergent and the bleach dispenser location is hard on the Left Hand Lid Lock and TDS (corrosion issues).

Andy let us know how the Spinner Support scoring works out.

You gent’s are deep into the bowels of the machine and doing great......GIT-R-DONE!

Dick

HI guys I checked the left lid lock location and removed the lock and unplugged the wiring and I dont see any signs of corrosion yet unless I'm in the wrong place I think it's good so far. I got everything pretty clean now so just waiting for parts. I suppose there will be a lot of people with these problems soon since the seals seem to go bad in the 4 to 7 year range. I'm working on my spa pump also for a seal between the motor and the wet end because it was dripping and they recommend replacing the seal every year. If not then corrosion builds up and locks the shaft to impeller. Maybe the wash tub seal would have been better on the bottom or made to be able to replace without a complete tear down. (btw the spa seal is the same age as the tub seal because I built my house and installed them at the same time. As I did with all my appliances and I seem to have several needing some repair lately so maybe that's in the design for a product cycle?)

Going to send you a interesting read/link from another forum.

You guys are aware that you have to replace the Outer Tub to replace the Outer Tub bearings in the FAV6800A/FAV9800A..........right:eek:

e-mail to follow with link........Dick

Hi Guys,

Well, it would be hard to justify changing out the whole tub, knowing what we know now. Thanks to Dick. There's a guy o ******** trying to get $350 for one of these that needs a clutch and a spinner support. :eek: Ouch.

I have noticed something worth looking at: the seat on the Spinner Support where the o-ring sits - it seals the transmission to the Spinner Support - make sure it's smooth and clean. The rusty crud I found caked around the top bearing in the Spinner Support was undoubtedly due to water leaking through this seal.

Andy

Dick,

I ordered new bearings for the Spinner Support. I have to give that thing a little TLC. The old ones looked shaky.

I don't know why the guy on you-know-where thinks he needs a spinner support. Maybe the repairman told him. It's a pain to clean up - but new ones are $240.

I just finished a big project for a client, so I'm going to get going on the washer again.

Best,

Andy