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When I set my dryer on auto dry, the timer doesn't move and the dryer will not get hot. But, if I set the dryer to timed high heart or timed low heat the timer works and the dryer gets hot. What needs to be replaced?
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Sounds like the problem is a bad timer. - The part number for the timer is AP3038719 Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper dryer Model RGX4634KQ1Gene.
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I have a question on the answer you have provided since I am having a similiar problem with an Estate gas dryer, model # TGDS740PQ.
How does a bad Timer prevent the heat from coming on? I thought the heat was controlled by the Cycling Thermostat and that the AutoSense mode simply turned off the dryer when the clothes were dry. Is that not how it works?
That leads me to another question - how does the dryer sense moisture? I looked at all of the parts in the breakdown at this site and didn't see anything related to "moisture sensor".
I should point out that my dryer does eventually dry the clothes in the AutoSense modes, even though the timer knob does not move. It does appear to take longer than ever, and of course the dryer will run forever.
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: DerbyDad03  1. ...How does a bad Timer prevent the heat from coming on?...
2. ...how does the dryer sense moisture?... 1. The timer is a set of switches engaged by a timer motor driven cam. The timer, through these switches, provides power to different dryer parts, like the drive motor or the heating circuit. You can see it on the wiring diagram for your dryer. There is supposed to be continuity between the timer terminals TM & OR when the timer is set for "auto” dry in order for the timer to advance.There is supposed to be continuity between the timer terminals BK & R in any cycle in order for the dryer to heat.2. You dryer does not sense moister because it does not have a moister sensor and an electronic moister control. The difference between "timed" dry and "auto" dry in your dryer (as you can see from the wiring diagram) is: on "timed" dry, the power to the timer motor comes through the drive motor centrifugal switch as long as the dryer is "on"; on "auto" dry, the power to the timer motor comes only when the heating circuit is "off" which actually makes the whole cycle longer.You can learn the theory of drying from this Manual. Gene.
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Thanks for the explanation. I'll look over the manual. As I mentioned in Estate Dryer AutoSense Problem my problem turned out to be the coil kit on the gas valve. The explanation by the nice lady at the appliance parts store counter was that if the coils can't keep the valve open long enough, the clothes will eventually dry, but the dryer will never get hot enough to advance the timer in AutoSense mode.
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In dryers without a moisture sensor, the dryer sends voltage to run the timer motor whenever the cycling thermostat opens. Initially, when the clothes are wet, almost all of the heat is absorbed by the wet clothes so the thermostat never opens and the timer motor does not run. As the clothes get dry, the output temperature gets higher and higher till the cycling thermostat opens more often and sends longer periods of voltage to run the timer motor. Eventually the clothes get dry fully and the timer advances to the off position.
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Thanks richappy, that's kind of how I thought it worked.
That is also why at first I thought it was the cycling thermostat that was bad. Since the clothes were eventually drying, I assumed the CT was never opening, therefore never advancing the timer.
What I missed was the fact that if the CT didn't open, then the clothes should have been really, really hot because the only thing controlling the burner would have been the over limit thermostat.
I gotta thank the parts store lady for her suggestion that it was the coils. It makes sense that if the dryer never got hot enough, the clothes would eventually dry, but the CT would never open.
I'm smarter today than I was yesterday!
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