I have been researching this problem on the internet and came up with this post which is very similar to my problem. My question is, is there a timer issue with this machine or is it something other than the timer? Is there more than one timer for the machine? Was there a defective batch of timers?

nomaytag1865's Full Review: Maytag Atlantis MDG8400AW Gas DryerI bought a brand new Maytag Atlantis Intellidry Dryer model number MDG8400AWW. It worked for just over two years with no problems. Then the timer started getting stuck in certain settings. No problem, right? Just replace the timer. And, I have a home warranty to take care of such expenses with AHS American Home Shield. Well, It broke down on 25 Jan 07 and today, 25 May 07 marks the 4 month anniversary of it NOT BEING FIXED YET.

Three separate repair companies have been working on it, the timer has been replaced 4 times and the problem is still there. All the techs say it is the timer but because there is so much confusion on which particular timer should be used they haven't figured it out. Apparently there are anywhere from 3 to 7 different timers.

I have started keeping track of the timer models to try to help the techs. AHS has been getting nastier and nastier and giving me more double talk as their expenses keep piling up.

In my last conversation I asked them to just replace the machine and the customer service person said "My system shows you were offered that option last week and you declined so that option is no longer available to you." And even though this is a lie, since it says it in their system, to them it makes sense.

My advice - stay away from Maytag, none of the Techs had anything good to say about it. Stay away from AHS, they like collecting your monthly fees but you better hope you never need their services.

Gene:

I am so happy you responded. I am assuming the internet post from the other owner doesn't lead you to believe it might be a defective (wrong) timer problem.

I just repaired a Carrier Furnace that had a defective circut board, so I believe I have the determination and skill level when directed to solve this problem.

Yes I have a multi-meter and am a half-way decent handyman. The unit is at my 88 year old mom's house that is five miles from me, but if you can give me some starting point tests on the dryer I would be able to check them out and move forward from there.

I have read a lot of the other "timer doesn't work" posts and have never seen where the poster finally stated they solved the problem. Hopefully I will be the first.

I was curious if one could make a timer testor by taking an extension cord and cutting off the female end and crimping on two insulated connectors to slide onto the clock timer contacts then plug the cord into an oulet to see if the clock runs?

Thanks so much.

John

Gene:

Thanks again about getting back to me. The dryer serial number is 23313384EC. The model # of the dryer is MDG8400AWW and the new timer numbers are 4305A 63721240M295 then
KINGSTON 70674 A00843.


Many Thanks,

John

John,

The numbers you posted have nothing to do with a valued Maytag part number. There are three different part numbers listed for this model and they all consist of eight numbers and start with 3300. The correct part number for the timer in accordance with the model and serial numbers is 33002855.

You have to check the timer motor and the proper voltage (120 VAC) to the timer motor as described in the Service manual, using the wiring diagram which should be in the control compartment.

You also can find the wiring diagram in the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDG8400AWW Dryer - Gas | AppliancePartsPros.com

If there is no proper voltage to the timer motor, the problem can be a bad dryness/display assembly (#13 on the diagram).

Gene.

Gene:

I got 118 VAC to the timer via the larger black wire and small yellow wire coming from the power cord. This was taken with the plug disconnected and connected. The voltage on the red wire (when the timer is engaged and plugged in) is 118 VAC, which goes to the temperature control. I was taking the reading by going to ground with the black test meter lead. Should one always do a test by grounding the black lead rather than to the common?

I am going to replace the little dryness circuit board as you suggested. I am curious if the neutral to the timer motor has been compromised so the timer isn't running. I am assuming that the hot and neutral leads come from the little circuit board. Should I have been taken a voltage test on the two small wires that run the little timer motor?

I looked at the three wiring diagrams via the Internet link you provided and wasn't sure which one to use. I couldn't find the diagram that might come with the machine.

Thanks for your help,

[FONT='Times New Roman']John[/FONT]