You are looking in the wrong area! The RS2545SH has dual evaporators, meaning that the compressed freon liquid splits and goes to evaporators in both the freezer and the refrigerator sections, where each has a fan that blows the cold air around their respective sections. You looked in the freezer, which is working fine, meaning that of course after pulling the back off, you found coils that looked normal. NO air blows from the freezer to the refrigerator section, unlike what
libertyappl was suggesting -- what he/she said only applies to single evaporator systems (the clear majority of refrigerators out there), which do have their cooling done in the freezer section.
You found cool temps at the bottom of your refrigerator section, and warm at the top. That means the evaporator there is working but the fan is not blowing the cold air around the inside. It's blocked or not working. If you had pulled the back cover off of there, you'd probably have found that the coils were encased in a block of ice. If you didn't hear the fan blowing (which only happens when the door is closed -- or the light switch taped down), it is either stuck in ice, dead and not working, or is in fact working but you got mislead because of the door being open, which turns off the fan. (This fooled me once, too!).
That blower motor runs off of 10V DC. You can remove it after removing the back cover (which is held in place by 6 or more screws AND a couple of clips, so be careful you don't bust those clips). Don't forget to unplug the various wires near the right light socket area. They only go back one way, so you don't have to worry about mixing them up. Also, if you do have one solid block of ice, it will hold the cover in place like glue, making it hard to remove. One suggestion: remove all the food and lower shelves and put a small electric space heater (one with a fan blower) in the bottom, aimed at the back, set to the lowest heat setting, and close the door. In less than 30 minutes, it will melt enough ice to release the cover from the ice. Check on the temp inside periodically to make sure nothing is getting so hot that the plastic will soften! I use a $10 space heater for this. Better than holding a hot air gun for a long time.
After all of this and you finally getting the back cover removed, plug that fan back in, plug the refrigerator back in, push the door light switch closed, and see if the fan runs (after around a 10 second delay). If it does, and you did have a lot of ice around that coil, you might have a bad defrosting element, which is part of the evaporator.
I'm not going to tell you anymore because the best advice is found in this thread:
"Samsung Refrigerator Defrost Coils Freezing" http://forum.appliancepartspros...rost-coils-freezing.html And for a replacement/repair of the heating coil, definitely look at
Samsung Refrigerator Heater Repair (RN's site) Samsung Refrigerator Heater Repair (RN's site) Also, I know I'm replying to a posting last looked at April 2009, but I figured this might help somebody else as I’m going through these same issues. I also have a manual that pretty much fits this particular model number, so don’t be worried that the model number is slightly off; this one will give you a lot of information
RS2545SH Service Manual http://www.servicematters.com/m...library/docs/SAM0060.pdf (6.25 MB file). And if you know
nothing about working with Freon and soldering or brazing pipes, don’t try and REPLACE the evaporator, as it is charged with Freon. Just follow RN’s advice if you want to replace the heater. A heater/evaporator part costs around $40 bucks, though currently out of stock at one place I recommend:
Refrigerator compartment replacement parts for MAYTAG RS2545SH Ref - Sxs | AppliancePartsPros.com (Diagram 10, part 19). Remember: Share what you learn as you fix things (or break things). We can all learn from what others are doing, and hopefully we can save some money along the way, too!
