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Refrigerator/Bottom Freezer Will Not Run
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Model: DRB2201CC Brand: Amana Age: Less than 1 year
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cmm  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 8, 2010 4:24:29 AM(UTC)
cmm

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I have a six year old Amana (DRB2201CC) that when plugged in, ran briefly than stopped completely. There is power getting to it since the interior lights work. I tried adjusting the thermostat for both the freezer and fridge.
I suspect it might be the Overload relay or capacitor but when I sought a replacement for the relay (AP4013414) it has a different two wire plug-in configuration than the original part. See below URL.
Someone told me that if the overload relay is bad you can hear a rattle inside it when shaking it.

If not this what else could it be?

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Overload, relay, part number: AP4013414
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, September 8, 2010 8:16:39 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: cmm Go to Quoted Post
I have a six year old Amana (DRB2201CC) that when plugged in, ran briefly than stopped completely. There is power getting to it since the interior lights work. I tried adjusting the thermostat for both the freezer and fridge.
I suspect it might be the Overload relay or capacitor but when I sought a replacement for the relay (AP4013414) it has a different two wire plug-in configuration than the original part. See below URL.
Someone told me that if the overload relay is bad you can hear a rattle inside it when shaking it.

If not this what else could it be?

Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Overload, relay, part number: AP4013414


CMM,

You could still have a bad freezer temperature control (this control, activates your compressor).

Do you have a meter to test the circuits ?

Gray and red wires on the temperature control is your compressor run circuit, through the defrost timer, to the compressor.

Unplug the machine so you don't hurt yourself, remove one of the wires and check for a closed circuit,when the control is turned on(to cool) and an open circuit when the control is turned off(no cool) on the control terminals.

If you feel confident, you could also jump the two wires,together, and plug in the cord(momentarily) to see if the compressor starts.

At the defrost timer,

Make sure the timer is in a cool mode, and check terminal #1(gray) to terminal #4(blue) for a closed circuit in the timer, that would also keep the compressor from running.

Your new and old relay will not rattle, they are both a PTC device and are a "solid state" component.

According to my diagram you should have two wires going to the relay(1 blue and 1 white wire(s) and should attach to the same terminals on the new relay assembly.
(click on number)
Part number: AP4013414
Part number: AP4013414


Could you be confused by the "slip on" capacitor ?

Part number: AP4074064
Part number: AP4074064


Hope you have a better idea, if you need more help, drop us a line.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
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cmm  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, September 8, 2010 10:40:16 AM(UTC)
cmm

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Thank you for the reply. :) Yes I do have a meter to test circuits.
By "open circuit" you mean one that power will not flow through, correct?
Are both the Freezer temp. control and the Defrost timer located inside the freezer?
If the freezer temperature control does not pass the test you defined do I first replace it or do I test both, determine which or both might be bad:mad: then replace?

Regarding the old (orginal) and new (replacement relay) The old one has the wires together on one termial block and the new part has them seperated. basically a different plug config.
In any case it does not sound like the Overload rely is my problem.
The slip on capacitor is a seperate part that again does not seem to be the problem based on what you have first asked me to look at.
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Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, September 8, 2010 2:19:22 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: cmm Go to Quoted Post
Thank you for the reply. :) Yes I do have a meter to test circuits.
By "open circuit" you mean one that power will not flow through, correct?
Are both the Freezer temp. control and the Defrost timer located inside the freezer?
If the freezer temperature control does not pass the test you defined do I first replace it or do I test both, determine which or both might be bad:mad: then replace?

Regarding the old (orginal) and new (replacement relay) The old one has the wires together on one termial block and the new part has them seperated. basically a different plug config.
In any case it does not sound like the Overload rely is my problem.
The slip on capacitor is a seperate part that again does not seem to be the problem based on what you have first asked me to look at.


CCM,

Yes an open circuit will not allow power to pass through a component.

(what you can do, turn your meter on and set for the lowest Rx setting on the ohms scale, wether it be a digital or analog meter, nothing should occur this is the same as an open circuit, when you take the two probes from the meter and touch them together, the needle or the digits should change this indicates a closed circuit.

You freezer control is inside the control panel in the freezer compartment.

The defrost timer is located in the refrigerator control panel .

Here is a parts diagram for you to familiarize yourself with the parts location, and part number(s) when you order the parts you may need, and a service manual so you can access the components as you need to.

You still may need the relay assembly, but I believe we'll find the problem in one of these components.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)


Controls replacement parts for AMANA DRB2201CC Ref - Bottom Mounts | AppliancePartsPros.com


[FONT=Arial083.313][FONT=Arial083.313][FONT=Arial083.313][FONT=Arial083.313]http://servicematters.co...rary/docs/16021484R1.pdf[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial083.313][FONT=Arial083.313]

[/FONT][/FONT]
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cmm  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 1:23:17 PM(UTC)
cmm

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
CCM,

Yes an open circuit will not allow power to pass through a component.

(what you can do, turn your meter on and set for the lowest Rx setting on the ohms scale, wether it be a digital or analog meter, nothing should occur this is the same as an open circuit, when you take the two probes from the meter and touch them together, the needle or the digits should change this indicates a closed circuit.

You freezer control is inside the control panel in the freezer compartment.

The defrost timer is located in the refrigerator control panel .

Here is a parts diagram for you to familiarize yourself with the parts location, and part number(s) when you order the parts you may need, and a service manual so you can access the components as you need to.

You still may need the relay assembly, but I believe we'll find the problem in one of these components.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)


Controls replacement parts for AMANA DRB2201CC Ref - Bottom Mounts | AppliancePartsPros.com


[FONT=Arial083.313][FONT=Arial083.313][FONT=Arial083.313][FONT=Arial083.313]http://servicematters.co...rary/docs/16021484R1.pdf[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial083.313]

[/FONT]


The results of my testing have me somewhat confused.:confused: They are as follows:

Re: Freezer temperature control

I removed one of the wires to check for a closed circuit,when the control is turned on(to cool) Yes - closed and an open circuit when the control is turned off(no cool) Yes - Closed again but less current on the control terminals.

I jumped the two wires,together, and pluged in the cord(momentarily) to see if the compressor starts.
I did this and no start.


At the defrost timer,

Make sure the timer is in a cool mode, and check terminal #1(gray) to terminal #4(blue) for a closed circuit (Yes it was closed) in the timer, that would also keep the compressor from running.


What do you think the above results point to?
What should I test next?

Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...p;p=271293#ixzz0zXaxhuT5
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
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Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 2:02:29 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: cmm Go to Quoted Post
The results of my testing have me somewhat confused.:confused: They are as follows:

Re: Freezer temperature control


I removed one of the wires to check for a closed circuit,when the control is turned on(to cool) Yes - closed and an open circuit when the control is turned off(no cool) Yes - Closed again but less current on the control terminals.


I jumped the two wires,together, and pluged in the cord(momentarily) to see if the compressor starts.
I did this and no start.


At the defrost timer,


Make sure the timer is in a cool mode, and check terminal #1(gray) to terminal #4(blue) for a closed circuit (Yes it was closed) in the timer, that would also keep the compressor from running.



What do you think the above results point to?
What should I test next?






CMM,

Two things to question,

A) Was the defrost timer in the "cooling" mode when you jumped the two
wires at the freezer control ?

B) What do you mean " Yes - Closed again but less current on the
terminals " ?

The next test would be to check for voltage to the overload relay on the Blue wire at the compressor to chassis ground, with the unit in a cooling mode.

:confused: :confused: :confused:
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slappy  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, September 14, 2010 4:58:38 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post

Your new and old relay will not rattle, they are both a PTC device and are a "solid state" component.


If the old one is bad, it may very well rattle. The PTC ceramic pellet cooks over time (especially in some of the previous generation relays prior to 2005), and then becomes delicate and eventually breaks or burns into pieces, producing a telltale rattle;

UserPostedImage

Originally Posted by: cmm Go to Quoted Post

Regarding the old (orginal) and new (replacement relay) The old one has the wires together on one termial block and the new part has them seperated. basically a different plug config


The PTC relay has two connection possibilities. So, extra terminal spades just provide a convenient way to wire in the run capacitor. Your old relay may have instead just crimped the wires to the same connection if only one spade was on the relay. See 8ea.pdf. However, your relay may be encased in a plastic housing that also contains the overload (a separate component). The overload has a single connection, but it is important not to confuse the relay terminals and the the overload terminal if you are wiring in replacement parts with a different configuration - or without the plastic case.
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Joe / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, September 15, 2010 7:34:51 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
CMM,

Two things to question,

A) Was the defrost timer in the "cooling" mode when you jumped the two
wires at the freezer control ?

B) What do you mean " Yes - Closed again but less current on the
terminals " ?

The next test would be to check for voltage to the overload relay on the Blue wire at the compressor to chassis ground, with the unit in a cooling mode.

:confused: :confused: :confused:



CMM,

It's time to run Voltage tests.

***Be Careful, Don't ZAP yourself or the components ***

You need to make sure the unit is in a cooling mode(as before) and plugged into the outlet.

Where you start is up to you.

You will use Chassis ground as a common test point(bare metal or screw), and all connectors and wires need to be connected to components.

At the Compressor,

Blue wire to chassis ground, 110 VAC, have VAC, replace overload/relay.
(you may want to see if it rattles per Slappy).
No voltage, go to defrost timer.

At Defrost Timer,

Blue wire to chassis ground, 110 VAC, have VAC, D/F Timer, freezer control and wiring OK.
Blue wire broken or loose.

No voltage, check Gray wire to chassis ground, have VAC, bad Defrost timer contact.

Gray wire to chassis ground, 110 VAC, Have VAC, cold control and wiring OK.

No voltage, go to cold control


Freezer Temp. Control,

Gray wire to chassis ground 110 VAC, Have VAC, Temp. control OK, Gray wire loose or broken to Defrost timer.

No voltage, check red wire to chassis ground, have VAC , Bad cold control.

NO voltage, Broken RED wire in harness( possibly in cabinet), NOT REPAIRABLE.
( Possible but not probable at this time).

You ought to have this unit up and running in a few days.

:) :) :)
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cmm  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, September 15, 2010 3:41:29 PM(UTC)
cmm

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Posts: 5
Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
CMM,

Two things to question,

A) Was the defrost timer in the "cooling" mode when you jumped the two
wires at the freezer control ?

B) What do you mean " Yes - Closed again but less current on the
terminals " ?

The next test would be to check for voltage to the overload relay on the Blue wire at the compressor to chassis ground, with the unit in a cooling mode.

:confused: :confused: :confused:


Well I think I have achieved success....

First things first. Yes to your above question A.
Question B -The temp. control did show a open circuit when the control was turned to off (no cool)

By the compressor-

No rattles in the rely
No voltage off the blue wire connected to the rely to chassis ground.

Defrost Timer-
Blue wire to chassis ground, no volts
Grey wire to chassis ground, had volts.UserPostedImage

Freezer Temp. Control-

Here is where it gets intresting.UserPostedImage When testing for volts, I can not recall if it was the Grey wire or more likely the red to the chassis ground that the compressor kicked in and has been running fine since.

Does this mean the Freezer temp. control is probably still bad and I somehow kicked it back into functioning?
Should I replace the Freezer Temp. Control to be safe?

cmm
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Joe / APP Team  
#10 Posted : Thursday, September 16, 2010 6:37:28 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: cmm Go to Quoted Post
Well I think I have achieved success....

First things first. Yes to your above question A.
Question B -The temp. control did show a open circuit when the control was turned to off (no cool)

By the compressor-

No rattles in the rely
No voltage off the blue wire connected to the rely to chassis ground.

Defrost Timer-
Blue wire to chassis ground, no volts
Grey wire to chassis ground, had volts.UserPostedImage

Freezer Temp. Control-

Here is where it gets intresting.UserPostedImage When testing for volts, I can not recall if it was the Grey wire or more likely the red to the chassis ground that the compressor kicked in and has been running fine since.

Does this mean the Freezer temp. control is probably still bad and I somehow kicked it back into functioning?
Should I replace the Freezer Temp. Control to be safe?

cmm



CMM,

Based on your response,

I'm all kinds of confused. :confused: :confused: :confused:

With voltage on the gray wire and no voltage on the blue, I thought you had a bad contact in the defrost time, of a loose gray wire.

But as I understand it, When you checked red or gray at the freezer control , the compressor started running.

So, now I have to think you have a bad contact in the freezer temp control.

Part number: AP4077824
Part number: AP4077824


Part number: AP4077325
Part number: AP4077325


Also, here's the Tech Sheet for your unit, I can't recall if I ever sent you one.

http://servicematters.co...ibrary/docs/12642402.pdf

It was fun working with you,
:cool: :cool: :cool:
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