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Looks like some progress since the last time I checked in ... guessing the burning of R1 could be related to relay flakyness, ie if L2 fails when L1 switches. Just had another failure after almost a year working, replaced fried R1 again, this time with PTC in series to limit current. Would be nice if they just could provide a robust replacement board but might be time for a new range :-/ Edited by user Friday, December 18, 2020 2:27:20 PM(UTC)
| Reason: expand on failure mode/repair
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My guess is the main relays need to be replaced. They eventually burn their contacts and start sticking on or not making good contact. Both bad. Probably causes the 220 ohm resistor to blow when they stick. Relay failure is one of the most common reasons for board replacement.
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Hey, I wonder if you guys can help me out. Someone near me put out a stove at the curb - a Kenmore, stainless steel, convection with warming drawer. I have the stove now. It's in great shape, but there was a problem with the control board.
The board model number is 3164627, Rev F. I think this is the same board you're talking about in this thread. The connector for the L2 relay was browned up, specifically the L2 connector. The relay pin for that connector (the L2 out) had lost all its solder so it was no longer making contact on the PCB. The R1 resistor is fine. I figure either there is something wrong with the L2 relay or it was a bad solder joint. I haven't done anything yet with the board, just looking on digikey for relays.
My main question for now is - there are 2 white relays on the board, for P9 and P7, which is Bake and broil. P11 is for Conv - which is I guess the convection element? The stove has a fan on the back oven wall so I assume there should be a convection element behind the wall, but on the board there is no matching white relay for P11, just a blank space where the relay could be (K7 I think). Should there be a relay there? Or is it possible the board I have in this oven was a replacement board and didn't have the convection relay?
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I had exactly the same problem.
There is no third relay. on the 3164627 board.
This stove's convection works by constantly switching between the top and bottom elements. It seems to cause a lot of wear and tear on the relay.
The relay with the de-soldered pin needs to be replaced.
I'm in Canada. I ordered it from newark.com, stock 34R9918, Manufacturer part T9AV5L12-12 and it was delivered in two days.
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Hi all, Thanks so much to this thread I was able to fix my Kenmore Elite Induction Oven (Model C970-441331 ). The problem was it wasn't heating up quick enough for most of the time but occasionally it would give me the run-away temperature error code. The oven would quite noticeably heat up very quickly and burn food. I also noticed that only one element would be on as indicated by the display. Convection would not work. I was stuck with a very slow or extremely fast bake setting. Something was awry. I tested the oven thermostat and it was fine at around 1100 ohms. So I popped off the control board and saw that the R1 resistor was fried. I tested the relays as indicated in this thread. The bake one sounded to be in good working order, clear switching noise when I placed a 9V battery on the terminals. The other two, convection and broil, had a much weaker switching sound when I tested them so I suspected something was wrong with them. I ordered the parts from Digi-Key and they were shipped over night pretty cheaply (unreal!). The part list is below using Digi-key part numbers. Thank you to whomever described what resistor is needed for this because mine was fried beyond recognition and I couldn't see the colour bands Relay
PART: G5RL-1-E-HRDC12-ND MFG : Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div / G5RL-1-E-HR DC12 DESC: RELAY GEN PURPOSE SPDT 16A 12V Resistor
PART: PPC221XCT-ND MFG : Vishay Beyschlag/Draloric/BC Components (VA) / SFR16S0002210FR500 DESC: RES 221 OHM 1/2W 1% AXIAL It was a pretty easy fix to desolder and solder in the new parts. I ended up replacing all three relays and the resistor for under $20 Canadian. The most difficult part was finding accurate information on the parts needed. I spent hours researching this! I wanted to make this reply with concise information to hopefully help someone else in the future! Thank you again! Edited by user Sunday, April 11, 2021 12:09:46 PM(UTC)
| Reason: added more details
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Originally Posted by: Guest  Hi all,
Thanks so much to this thread I was able to fix my Kenmore Elite Induction Oven (Model C970-441331 ). The problem was it wasn't heating up quick enough for most of the time but occasionally it would give me the run-away temperature error code. The oven would quite noticeably heat up very quickly and burn food. I also noticed that only one element would be on as indicated by the display. Convection would not work. I was stuck with a very slow or extremely fast bake setting. Something was awry.
I tested the oven thermostat and it was fine at around 1100 ohms. So I popped off the control board and saw that the R1 resistor was fried. I tested the relays as indicated in this thread. The bake one sounded to be in good working order, clear switching noise when I placed a 9V battery on the terminals. The other two, convection and broil, had a much weaker switching sound when I tested them so I suspected something was wrong with them.
I ordered the parts from Digi-Key and they were shipped over night pretty cheaply (unreal!). The part list is below using Digi-key part numbers. Thank you to whomever described what resistor is needed for this because mine was fried beyond recognition and I couldn't see the colour bands
Relay
PART: G5RL-1-E-HRDC12-ND
MFG : Omron Electronics Inc-EMC Div / G5RL-1-E-HR DC12
DESC: RELAY GEN PURPOSE SPDT 16A 12V
Resistor
PART: PPC221XCT-ND
MFG : Vishay Beyschlag/Draloric/BC Components (VA) / SFR16S0002210FR500
DESC: RES 221 OHM 1/2W 1% AXIAL
It was a pretty easy fix to desolder and solder in the new parts. I ended up replacing all three relays and the resistor for under $20 Canadian. The most difficult part was finding accurate information on the parts needed. I spent hours researching this! I wanted to make this reply with concise information to hopefully help someone else in the future!
Thank you again! So the Omron relay listed above, did you order two of those to replace the two white relays that are side by side on the board? I haven’t pulled mine from the board but was thinking they would be the same part number. For the 3rd relay, the larger black one, what part number did you purchase from digi-key as I see they have zero stock of the T9AV5L12-12? I received the F10 error yesterday while preheating the oven. After preheat alarm, I returned to the kitchen to smell an electrical burn and then heard the resistor fry. The F10 error popped up and alarm chime began. I had to unplug the oven to turn it off. Pulled the board and the R1 is completely gone. I’ve tested the relays and they all 3 appear to be working with open close and continuity and the temp prob is showing the correct ohms. I can only come think that one of the relays stuck during use and caused a run away heating situation which caused R1 to blow.
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Does anyone know why R1 blows up? My dad thinks it might be in there to dampen inrush current when the relay switches (anti-bounce). He is a retired food service equipment technician/installer. I replaced the resistor with 221 ohm 2 watt part. I used 2 watts hoping it would last longer. I had to stand it up off the board so it would fit. After about 1 month of use, the resistor opened up. At least it didn't blow up this time but the same problem occurred. This time I will try replacing the relay and see if that helps. Many thanks to this thread! VERY HELPFUL! update 7/7/2021 So another month went by... and R1 blew up again. New relay didn't help. Weird that it works for a while, then apparently then R1 goes up in smoke. I replaced R1 again, but I expect the same thing will happen. I don't know what condition causes the problem. update 7/13/2021 Yep... up in smoke again. Wife burnt the pork chops. Came home to a smoke detector on the counter. replaced R1 again... the board is starting to look pretty rough. All the fires from the resistor have burned some casings of other parts. Resistors, diodes, and transistors seem to be ok when checked with a DMM. But hard to tell exactly without having a schematic (seeing values and parallel paths). The wife wants me to buy a new Oven but I'm too cheap to do it. I want electrolux to give me a controller that works. THIS IS RIDICULOUS! Edited by user Wednesday, July 14, 2021 3:29:56 AM(UTC)
| Reason: Update - R1 blows up again
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What most often happens with this board is one of the OMRON G2RL relays gets stuck closed causing the runaway temperature problem in the first place. These relays control the L1 side of each oven heating element. As the oven overheats, as a safety the control board turns off the K1 relay which disconnects L2 power common to both the broil and the bake elements. The problem is R1 is attached to the off side of K1 relay which is now getting feedback L1 power coming through one of the stuck-on oven elements. This L1 power to ground through R1 is why it burns. I just cut R1 out of the circuit as I see no need for it. Still have to change the Omron relays every five years but no more control board fire damage! Observation: If the resistance values for the heating elements is accurate as posted by Dirty Paws then the relay for the broil element is probably the one going bad most often since that resistance would make it draw around 17A but the Omron is a 16A rated relay. Edited by user Monday, September 13, 2021 1:11:39 PM(UTC)
| Reason: Typo in relay part number
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Thank you guys for all the findings and the discussion. Through this pandemic I can now claim to have fixed ridiculous malfunctions in three appliances. By ridiculous I really mean stuff that should have been done right at the start, but someone decided to half-ass it and put it in production. Stuff that should switch on and off and sticks in one position, stuff that should drain and is too narrow and plugs, and stuff that should be sealed properly from water/humidity -- in a machine that USES water -- but isn't.
Multiply the price of a gasket by one million and that's most of their savings right there. I guess it keeps the repair business going...
Anyway, thanks again for the discussion in this thread!
Has anyone come across a schematic diagram for the board itself (P/N 3164627 rev.F) other than the service data sheet that is found on the unit?
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We have had oven door codes and burning plastic smell when using broil element on our Kenmore 790.99913804 by Electrolux/Frigidaire. Also Convection indicator has two amber leds dimly lit with a dim blue fan on the display. I dug in to have a look and if nothing else clean all PCBs with electrical cleaner.
I found:
Blackening of harness connector at J3 - Pin 8 (black wire, assuming L1 inbound, serving K18 (the right-most T77V1D10-12 Tyco relay)
>This harness connects t the warming drawer element (black and white wires) and its thermostat (grey and brown wires)
>Warming element and T-stat connections at the other end all look fine
Blackening of harness connector at P3 - Pin 1 (Red wire, L2 in)
Charred harness connector and PCB at P11 (Yellow AWG 14 to lower left Oven element) and P7 (Blue AWG 14 to upper left Broil Element)
Browning of the relay above P11 near the PCB
>The heat appears to have been generated at the spade connectors (female on the AWG 14 wire ends and male soldered to the board),
>both are crusted together (possibly fused/melted?).
>P11 (Yellow) pulled out of the PCB, while the solder at P7 (Blue) is holding fast.
Browning, looks like lacquer bubbling, at J2 (left end of PCB on the back side of the PCB).
My R1 looks beautiful and happy. I have not checked its resistivity yet.
I was suspecting a poor connection at the L2 supplied connections for oven and broiler. Thinking about a more robust connection, or in-line fuses on the LI (red in) and LX (black in) and/or P11 and P7.
I was assuming the orange "common" are eventually connected to L1 with no apparent issues
Now I am wondering if stuck relays and runaway power found the weak link and compromised the connections at P11 and P7 causing them to deteriorate under normal use.
I will see if the stove functions without the oven control board, while I determine the right fix, and report back. I have noted different relay part numbers and manufacturers in earlier posts.
I thank all who have contributed here.
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