We have had oven door codes and burning plastic smell when using broil element on our Kenmore 790.99913804 by Electrolux/Frigidaire. Also Convection indicator has two amber leds dimly lit with a dim blue fan on the display. I dug in to have a look and if nothing else clean all PCBs with electrical cleaner.

I found:
Blackening of harness connector at J3 - Pin 8 (black wire, assuming L1 inbound, serving K18 (the right-most T77V1D10-12 Tyco relay)
>This harness connects t the warming drawer element (black and white wires) and its thermostat (grey and brown wires)
>Warming element and T-stat connections at the other end all look fine
Blackening of harness connector at P3 - Pin 1 (Red wire, L2 in)
Charred harness connector and PCB at P11 (Yellow AWG 14 to lower left Oven element) and P7 (Blue AWG 14 to upper left Broil Element)
Browning of the relay above P11 near the PCB
>The heat appears to have been generated at the spade connectors (female on the AWG 14 wire ends and male soldered to the board),
>both are crusted together (possibly fused/melted?).
>P11 (Yellow) pulled out of the PCB, while the solder at P7 (Blue) is holding fast.

Browning, looks like lacquer bubbling, at J2 (left end of PCB on the back side of the PCB).

My R1 looks beautiful and happy. I have not checked its resistivity yet.



I was suspecting a poor connection at the L2 supplied connections for oven and broiler. Thinking about a more robust connection, or in-line fuses on the LI (red in) and LX (black in) and/or P11 and P7.

I was assuming the orange "common" are eventually connected to L1 with no apparent issues

Now I am wondering if stuck relays and runaway power found the weak link and compromised the connections at P11 and P7 causing them to deteriorate under normal use.

I will see if the stove functions without the oven control board, while I determine the right fix, and report back. I have noted different relay part numbers and manufacturers in earlier posts.

I thank all who have contributed here.

Just wanted to comment here. The switching relay for my oven was not working because the solder connection on the back wasn't making connections. I fixed it, plugged in the oven and the resistor blew. In hindsight, this is why. The switching relay T9AV5L12-12VDC had been in the 'on' position when the solder connection melted. Also, I have a broil relay (OZ-SS-112LM1F) that wasn't working and stuck in the on position. So, in this state, the power to the broil element was supplied on even though the stove was off. I believe the power came through this resistor which obviously cannot handle the current so it blew.

In hindsight, the stuck on broil relay likely lead to the overheating of the main relay as both elements were on at the same time. If you have a bad solder connection on your board, check your relays also.