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fixertoys1...thanks for that info.
All...is there anything I should check before I go and install the new control board? I don't want the new one to fry as soon as I install it!
thanks
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/25/2018(UTC)
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I checked the oven element for corrosion and breaks along with the connections going to it. I also checked the heat sensor probe which in my case is in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I used an ohm meter on both and everything checked out good. Also, I use a web site called ************************.com. They sell the parts and have great repair videos. Punch in the model number and the sight will take you into the parts for your unit or you can drop down to the repair help section and go from there. Let me know if the board works okay because I'm thinking about buying it also. Good luck
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/26/2018(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: fixertoys1  I checked the oven element for corrosion and breaks along with the connections going to it. I also checked the heat sensor probe which in my case is in the upper left hand corner of the oven. I used an ohm meter on both and everything checked out good. Also, I use a web site called ************************.com. They sell the parts and have great repair videos. Punch in the model number and the sight will take you into the parts for your unit or you can drop down to the repair help section and go from there. Let me know if the board works okay because I'm thinking about buying it also. Good luck Thanks, but this website blocked out the site you mentioned (see quote above^^).Can you send me the site info in a PM please? Thanks
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Rank: Member
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I guess I should'nt be trying to sell you on another repair site which no offense was intended. Actually I use all of them.
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Joined: 9/16/2020(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: Alabama
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Originally Posted by: niallp ... if I get it apart again I'll have to try an externally reset fuse/breaker or PTC. how would one go about figuring out the fuse type/ size/ amps?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/16/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: Alabama
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I have the same issue with No Heat and my R1 resister burnt out.
I tested the Thermal Circuit breaker it passed
I tested the RTD, at 79 Deg F it measured 1099 ohms, the ohms increased with the heat gun, close to the RTD scale, but hard to know specifically because it is hard to check the air temp exiting the heat gun.
I tested the Bake Element = 23.6 ohms
I tested the Roast Element = 13.9 ohms
I bench tested both elements, both heat.
I tested the Main Terminal Block by testing continuity from inlet wire all the way to the main circuit board.
I then replaced the R1 resister with a 220.8 Ohm resister and it blew again.
BTW I replaced R1 with a Red/Red/Black/Gold. I thought the gold was supposed to be a multiplier, but it measured 220.8
Never designed a circuit before so I'm not sure if I should change the resistance on R1 (up or Down) or replace it with a fuse, but how do you calculate the amps? I'm not excited to buy a new timer (almost $200 refurb) because the unit is already 13 years old, but it is a Kenmore Wall Oven so replacing it with the exact same rough opening is going to be difficult. Any ideas how to breath new life in the timer?
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Joined: 9/16/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: Alabama
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I also want to add that when the unit was not working, I could hear a clicking sound. It would last for .5 sec then a pause that was either 9.45, 19.45 or 29.45 seconds. I assume this was the relay trying to energize the bake element, but auto resetting. I did not time the noise after replacing the resister as there was a clear and loud pop when I turned the oven on.
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Joined: 10/3/2020(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: Québec Thanks: 1 times
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I had the same problem with my R1 resistor burning. I replaced the resistor with a new 220 ohms resistor and not it works perfectly. The resistor costs only 10 cents, I found one a at local electronic store. To make sure it does not burn again, I purchased a 3W resistor instead of the original 0.5W. To replace it, I watched a youtube video how to mount a resistor on a PCB board. It basically takes 5 minutes using a soldering gun and soldering wire (borrow one from a friend or you can purchase them for 20 $). I could fix the problem the same day. I am very happy not to purchase a new board at more than 200 $ or wait for a technician (that would have cost at least 100 $ to tell me to change the board). Thanks to everybody on this blog to identify the problem and tell what resistor type to purchase. ****************** Update 2 weeks later : the resistor did not blow, but my board started to display an error message and the oven stopped working (or I should stay started to burn my food). So the resistor blowing up is not the problem itself bu a sign of something else not working. I recommend not changing it. I unfortunately decided to go for a new appliance because replacing the board is almost half the price of a new appliance. Edited by user Tuesday, November 3, 2020 3:59:09 PM(UTC)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/16/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: Alabama
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Finally got my board working. I went to an Appliance repair technician near me looking for the K1 relay, which he didn't have, but he did have a damaged board he gave me for free. This board had heavy damage on P9 and P7, but the R1 resister was good. So I removed the donor K1 relay, bench tested it and it was good. Inserted it into my board with a new R1 and the R1 didn't blow, but the unit didn't work. I then bench tested my original K1 (passed) and inserted it back into my donor board, and I repaired all the damage to the donor. The back side of the donor had delaminated the copper tape from the board, but there was enough remaining to spread out the solder and use a donor pin from P3 to secure it back to the board. I then attempted to plug in the donor board. It all seemed to work, except the donor board had a different connector for the thermocouple (which I left off) and the unit threw me an error message. I then replaced all the relays on my board with those from the donor, bench testing them all (all were good). The unit still didn't work. I then made a huge commitment and went all in to fix the donor instead of my own. There were 19 different jumpers, resisters and diodes I had to remove from my card to the donor. When I was done the unit still didn't work but the resister did not blow. The only difference I saw was the U2 EPROMM was a different manufacture, so I switched them (mine to donor which is now the card I'm using) and this time the R1 blew up. I thought I was getting close, so I ordered and replaced the U2 with the same manufacturer: ST PN: ULN2003A (along with another R1 220 ohm resister) and SUCCESS.
So my best guess is my EPROMM was what caused the R1 failure, but to be honest there is an outside chance that there was another diode or the like that my original board may have also failed. If I had to guess if there was a complementary issue it would be the D13 Diode, as it did not survive the transplant. When I went to remove it, the diode cracked and broke apart. I didn't think I was using too much pressure pulling on it when I removed it so I half suspected it may have also been damaged. I gambled and used another diode from D11. This transplant was done prior to the new EPROMM, so I'm still rather certain the EPROMM was the main and likely sole issue.
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Joined: 11/21/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: St. Albert
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Hey all, thanks for all the insightful information! I too had the R1 resistor burn up. With the help of this site, I knew what value of resistor to replace it with. I also tested the relays with a 9v battery and they all sounded like they were working, so I put it all back together to give it a test run... Unfortunately it had the same problem as before I put the new resistor in: the oven would come up to temperature, but then (even though the display indicated it was remaining at set temperature) it started dropping in temperature. So I flipped the control panel up over the stovetop so I could watch the relays (in dim light), and could see one relay arcing (flashes of light inside when the contacts closed). I again removed the control board and, while actuating each relay with a 9v battery, checked for continuity... one did not have continuity when “closing” with the relay coil, but it was not the same one that was arcing. I replaced the two trouble relays with equal-rated 16A 250V with 12v coil (but other branded) relays, and all is good now! Thanks again for this site and your information. Hope my information helps someone too. Edited by user Saturday, November 21, 2020 7:17:29 PM(UTC)
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