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Originally Posted by: Barney33  Jim,
I have encountered the same problem as you did, just about one year later. See the attached picture for how my stator looks. My story is about the same as yours. The problem started with a F1 error code, then turned into both an F50 & F51 error code. It also had an F80 as well, but I think that was just a fluke thing. However, as you can see by my picture I have another major concern: the center of my stator hub wasn't only cracked, but also covered with a black, greasy, oily, slimy substance that I'm pretty sure isn't supposed to be there?!?! My bet is that I'm on the verge of a tub bearing failure, and that this mess is coming from what is supposed to be a "sealed" bearing above it on the driveshaft. I've seen where this is another known issue with these units on various message boards on the internet. This is the only thread that I have found about the cracked stator issue though??? Either it is an uncommon failure, or others haven't looked close enough at their stators to see the cracks. All I know is that I have a unit that will not spin and I'm not 100% sure what is causing it? Please advise as to what you ended up doing to finally remedy your situation. I would greatly appreciate it!
Thanks,
Barney Barney, What about the "rotor" Part number: AP3882831
Did you find the same substance in the rotor assembly ? From the looks of it you do have an issue with the tub seal, it's just starting. You'll need to decide if you want to replace the outer tub assembly, Part number: AP5306816
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OK, so I changed out the RPS sensor kit which includes the lower wire harness assembly, the stator shield, and the RPS sensor itself. Then I also replaced the outer tub assembly as well in order to solve the possible driveshaft bearing issue. After completing these replacements I buttoned the machine back up and ran it thru a test cycle only to have it error out on the F50 error code all over again with seconds!?!? So at this point I figured the issue had to be either with the cracked stator or the main computer control board. After reading about all of the horror stories about the F1 error code with this units via Google, I figured I'd start with that. So I obtained a replacement board and had it swapped out within 5 minutes....and wallah! The machine immediately went into the 23 RPM spin during the C0 test cycle and also agitated during the C5 portion of the test cycle as well. So even though it was initially giving the error codes of F1, F50, F51, & F80, ultimately the only problem was with the main computer control board and I could've had it completely fixed within 5 minutes time had I just replaced this board first...ugh! Oh well, my machine is bascially brand new now as I thoroughly cleaned it when I had it all torn apart, and if I could advise you all as to anything that I leared during this entire process it would be:
1) replace the main computer control board first if you get any of these codes as it is the easiest thing to try first.
2) make sure that you run the cleaning cycle on your machine at least once a month. I highly recommend using a product called Affresh when doing so as well. You would not have believed the sludge that I had to scrape and wipe off of the inner tub basin and under the agitator unit!!! I went thru a whole roll of paper towel and a whole tub of Chlorox wipes in order to get it all off!
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Barney, There is a light coat of grease on the stator plate, this is to ease production and acts as a preservative. As long as there's no water or excess oil/grease in the rotor, you can replace the cracked stator and RPS kit and be fine. The cracks allow the stator and cover to "flex" and misalign and cause the various UL, DC and other codes.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Jim, That's basically, the complete suspension system. You should find the issue somewhere in these areas, Keep in touch and let us know what you do find out.
Thanks and Good Luck, I am new here but I am also having the uL error. I took the stator off and I do not see any cracks anywhere, and looking at the picture here I gather they should be fairly easy to see. I am wondering does that basically leave me with the stabilizers to replace? Is there anything else I should be looking at? And if I am relacing the stabilizers is that to be done from the top or can I still work from the bottom of the machine? I appreciate the help a lot.
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Originally Posted by: DaveCSR I am new here but I am also having the uL error. I took the stator off and I do not see any cracks anywhere, and looking at the picture here I gather they should be fairly easy to see. I am wondering does that basically leave me with the stabilizers to replace? Is there anything else I should be looking at? And if I am relacing the stabilizers is that to be done from the top or can I still work from the bottom of the machine? I appreciate the help a lot. Dave, You still need to check the RPS sensor, and wire harness from the stator up to the main control board. Ensure there are no loose connections, twists or kinks, etc. in the wires. Just about all repairs to this type washer are performed from the top of the washer, The pumps and stator are about the only exceptions. Once you have the washer top up, you may want to retrieve the tech data information attached to the inside of the front panel, run the diagnostics and test modes, You should be able to determine the issue from there.
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Hi,
I have a 2006 Kenmore Oasis made by Whirlpool, and thought this was going to be an easy fix. Started with the RPS, realized I needed new wiring, then got the stator apart and it was cracked. Just replaced everything today got it back together, and immediately back to F51, but all you have to do it hit Stop and Start and it usually finishes. It will do this sometimes at the beginning, sometimes in the middle etc.
Bearing seemed fine both visually and by turing it. What do I troubleshoot next -- I'm fully committed with $250 in parts into this thing in the last 6 months (did suspension kit then).
New control board? Take out inner tub and clean outer tub? Just some stuff I read.
Also, is there a reset for this control board -- is it possibly throwing old codes???
Washer works fine and makes no bad noises, -- great spin cycle dries clothes really well.
Thanks in advance...
Metrowest
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Took the machine apart because I was getting UL code on spin cycle only to find my stator to be cracked in 3 places,
[IMG]https://photos.app.goo.gl/MbgP7N7AHNKs2Fiz2[/IMG]
However, I found this mysteriously burnt hole in the bottom of the outter tub near the shaft, the bottom of shaft bearing looked rusty as water had been leaking from the hole. So I guess I'm changing the 1. motor stator 2.the bearing kit +the special tool needed to assemble 3. The RPS thing ? I mean after everything this will cost more than getting a new one. Not to mention the time I have to spend on getting the parts and change them out.What a POS that whirlpool is putting out, but I did see their stock drop today that kind of made me feel a tiny bit better.... No not really they need to just go outta business, this great American brand had turn to sh!t, what we buying is essentially an American brand that's assembled with cheap and flimsy Chinese parts, I mean how much money are u saving from using cheap springs that gives out? SPRINGs for crying out loud! Did I pay less cuz it was using cheap parts? HELL NO!
Nothing but disappointments whirlpool u might as well sell to some Chinese company, they will at least sell it cheaper.BTW i will be shorting ur stock because u are no longer fitted to survive
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Originally Posted by: Newappliancesusecheappart Took the machine apart because I was getting UL code on spin cycle only to find my stator to be cracked in 3 places,
[IMG]https://photos.app.goo.gl/MbgP7N7AHNKs2Fiz2[/IMG]
However, I found this mysteriously burnt hole in the bottom of the outter tub near the shaft, the bottom of shaft bearing looked rusty as water had been leaking from the hole. So I guess I'm changing the 1. motor stator 2.the bearing kit +the special tool needed to assemble 3. The RPS thing ? I mean after everything this will cost more than getting a new one. Not to mention the time I have to spend on getting the parts and change them out.What a POS that whirlpool is putting out, but I did see their stock drop today that kind of made me feel a tiny bit better.... No not really they need to just go outta business, this great American brand had turn to sh!t, what we buying is essentially an American brand that's assembled with cheap and flimsy Chinese parts, I mean how much money are u saving from using cheap springs that gives out? SPRINGs for crying out loud! Did I pay less cuz it was using cheap parts? HELL NO!
Nothing but disappointments whirlpool u might as well sell to some Chinese company, they will at least sell it cheaper.BTW i will be shorting ur stock because u are no longer fitted to survive WOW !!! Sounds like the problem was around for a while, before the UL error code was displayed. When it comes to damaged tubs and drive system components, it can get expensive for the parts. With more than one part needed it seems even worse. Good Luck,
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I have a Cabrio WTW8600YW0 Washer that is throwing codes and acting up. Over the past two weeks I have received an F50, several UL and a few SD. From what I can tell the load has not been uneven and we have not changed our soap usage one bit over the years of owning the machine.
Tonight after I got a UL code and adjusted the load I then got a SD code. The lid lock would not shut off after the SD code and I have to unplug the machine to try and reset the CPU and get the lid open.
The basket spins free and when it gets into it’s spin cycle there doesn’t seem to be any issues there from what I can tell.
Tonight after getting both codes and then the lid open I ran the machine through the rinse, drain cycle to get the clothes dry and it seemed to work fine.
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Originally Posted by: Clothierti I have a Cabrio WTW8600YW0 Washer that is throwing codes and acting up. Over the past two weeks I have received an F50, several UL and a few SD. From what I can tell the load has not been uneven and we have not changed our soap usage one bit over the years of owning the machine.
Tonight after I got a UL code and adjusted the load I then got a SD code. The lid lock would not shut off after the SD code and I have to unplug the machine to try and reset the CPU and get the lid open.
The basket spins free and when it gets into it’s spin cycle there doesn’t seem to be any issues there from what I can tell.
Tonight after getting both codes and then the lid open I ran the machine through the rinse, drain cycle to get the clothes dry and it seemed to work fine. Clothierti, The codes you supplied indicate an issue in the drive system. There are several things to check, before you dismantle the stator , rotor and RPS sensor. A stuck article between the tubs, as small as a babies sock or handkerchief can create enough "drag" on the tub to create the error codes. If the basket hub drive doesn't engage properly, when the water is drained and the basket drops down into position on the drive gear, will cause the error codes. Then you'll want to remove the rotor and check for a cracked or loose rotor, loose stator bolt, then the RPS sensor and wiring. When you check the basket hub and drive gear, make sure there are no burrs or debris on the "teeth" of the gears. At this point, it sounds like a sensor or stator issue, you may want to start there.
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