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After drying 1 load, our dryer would not start for the 2nd load. We checked the thermal fuse, door switch and start switch, but they all tested good. It is, however, our first time using a multimeter, but we read the instructions carefully and watched video demonstrations, and also retested each part so we think we did it correctly.
What else can we try? My husband is fairly handy but this is the first time for either of us trying to repair a dryer.
Thanks for any help.
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Here are your parts Parts for Roper RED4440VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. I would check the power. It is the L1 to Neutral which is important here. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. Check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. [COLOR="Red"] Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR] |
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OK - we have tried as best we can to check all of this - several times. Actually we had already checked the voltage, too.
The ONLY thing we see that we are not sure about is the circular piece mounted just below the thermal fuse (thermal cutoff??). It has red and red/white wires into it, which test fine, then has 2 purple wires into it that give an infinity reading. We see no purple wires on the diagram.
Clearly we are a bit lost, but we are trying. Any final thoughts? I think we are about to give up.
And thanks for your help, BTW.
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The purple wires on the thermostat are for it's internal heater. Thermostat Heater in the schematic. The wires are marker as V (violet).
This should not effect the motor start.
It is turned on for lower heat settings and add heat to the operating thermostat which results in it cycling more often resulting is a lower main heater output.
Since the power is good, try tracing out the motor start circuit.
Set your meter to it's most sensitive meter scale. It is a good idea to short the meter leads together before starting so you can see it there is a zero offset in the meter.
Set the time to where it will not start for you and unplug it.
Attach (tape or clip) one meter lead onto the L1 prong on the line and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the motor circuit.
Black at the terminal strip should be 0 ohms.
BK (black) and BU (blue) at the timer should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal fuse on the blower should be 0 ohms.
4M at the motor should be 0 ohms.
5M at the motor should be about 1 ohm (the motor windings).
W or W-R at the start switch should be 1 ohm.
BK at the start switch should be one ohm when switch is pushed (activated)
Keep the switch activated.
NO at the door switch should be 1 ohm.
C at the door switch should be 1 ohm with the door closed.
Keep it closed.
White at the at the terminal strip should be about 1 ohm.
The Neutral prong on the line cord should be about 1 ohm. |
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