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robert45  
#1 Posted : Friday, August 8, 2014 11:46:53 AM(UTC)
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robert45

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Joined: 8/8/2014(UTC)
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PLEASE HELP!!! I put a load of laundry in dryer, closed the door, and pushed the start button, I then heard a noise like something shorting out, and dryer would not start. I have checked the breaker-no problem there. I unplugged the dryer and plug it back in, still not working. The interior light is on when I open the door but the timer is not working either. I took the panel off and checked to make sure it was getting current with tester and everything is hot with exception to the start button.
MODEL# MDE7600AYW
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, August 11, 2014 1:53:53 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MDE7600AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a link to a service manual.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download it.
The wiring for your unit is on Page 10-19.

Looks like on this unit the interior light works off of L2 but the main motor and timer motor use L1 so I would start by checking the power.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

If the power is OK.
Then unplug the unit and check the thermal fuses.

If the one on the blower is blown then the most likely cause is a dirty vent system but could have other problems.

If the one on the heater is blown then it gets more complicated.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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