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Well, this part does not give any resistance reading. and it does make a LOUD audible click noise now that was NEVER heard in the past. I don't think I got a bad new part- In 26 years fixing mostly cars, trucks and some motorcycles as well as appliances and plumbing, electrical repairs that is the rarest thing- a new part that is faulty. The new one and the old one test and act identical. Something else is causing this and I feel its the compressor.
Too bad these yayhoos in government regulation force these systems to be sealed so you have to solder in service fittings to recover, evacuate, and recharge the system.
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The click is the overload shutting off because of the heat. The overload is the white part above the relay with the hole all by itself. I agree that the new part being bad is unlikely, but not unheard of. The compressor may indeed be bad, but if the new part shows open as well, it may be worth getting it replaced under warranty. It won't cost any more to find out and may prevent you from replacing the refrigerator unnecessarily or having a compressor installed when you don't need it. It is totally up to you, I am just trying to help you get your refrigerator going.
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Yeah, the loud click is not a "relay" but a circuit breaker. which explains why this never happened before the unit quit working. Now something is causing the starter to overheat. I knocked on the compressor with a hammer while it is trying to run and nothing. The compressor doesn't even hum. I believe it's either locked up mechanically or shorted internally. Why else would the overload keep kicking in?
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It would open if it is locked or if the power is not making it off of the high current draw start winding. I can send you the tech sheet if you'd like to explore it a bit.
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ok, I checked the 3 pins at the compressor and going from a-b, a-c, and b-c all are showing 0 ohms. not sure if that's normal or not.
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Rank: Member
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That would indicate the windings are all shorted, essentially condemning the compressor. Are you sure your meter is working because that is pretty rare and with the findings on the relays.....
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Rank: Member
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Actually- retested the compressor windings on a lower scale- this cheap meter I have at home sucks. My fluke 88 is at work.
The readings between the compressor windings are 10, 6.5, and 3.5 ohms. That seems to be normal from what I've read on other threads.
I double, triple, quadruple tested the new and old start device and there is no continuity between the 2 female terminals. I still don't think the new part could be bad. I don't think this is a PTC relay. there must be some other start devices that measure differently.
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Rank: Member
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Okay, well the tech sheet is below, I am headed out for the night. I hope you have a good weekend.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the tech sheet. Gonna check it over and see if there's anything I can figure out.
I took apart the old start device and I can see why there's no continuity between the 2 side by side terminals. They are not directly connected. One of those pins goes to a set of contacts that runs to one side of the capacitor. The other set goes to a small circuit board inside this control device. The other side of the capacitor goes to the circuit board also.
When I plug in the capacitor and check for resistance on a very high scale I can read some high resistance that climbs as the capacitor charges. If I unplug the capacitor and discharge it and retest I get the same thing. So this start control device is most likely ok. This is the same on the new start control device. This is obviously more than a positive temperature coefficient relay start device. There's some electronics involved inside.
looking at this tech sheet I can see a potentiometer between the 2 terminals- but why am I not getting a resistance reading on either device?
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Rank: Member
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Got a hard start relay to try from a local appliance repair place that brings their vehicles to the Ford dealer I work at.
Explained to him about the lack of continuity between the 2 terminals on the start device. He said I may have gotten a bad part. Told him the compressor windings tested ok- he said it could still be locked up and have good winding readings. Said 9 out of 10 whirlpools are not the compressor. I told him about the major dust issue on the condenser coil and he said it was possible the compressor overheated. I did try the rap on the compressor with a hammer which he has told customers to try.
Gonna try this hard start relay and see what happens. He said the whirlpool start device with the computer chip in it was prone to failure. He said they've had an issue with these for 10 years. The computer chip can't generate enough power to start the compressor.
Maybe I did get a bad part- which would totally suck. If this doesn't get compressor working then it;s getting replaced with a new frig.
I'll post an update for anyone who may be helped by checking this thread.
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