ok, I ordered thepart. In the meantime I checked the resistance between those two small square holes on the side of the device below where the capacitor plugs in. They are the 2 holes I thought you might be referring to last night but didn't have anything small enough to go in there. I have some very small pin type connectors for my fluke meter here at work and they go in those 2 holes and read .7 ohms.
I also plugged the capacitor back into the start device and checked the resistance between the 2 side by side compressor terminals and it was very high in the megaohms indicating an open. The weird thing was the meter might have charged the capacitor because when I checked it for dc voltage it had around 1.1 volt and slowly bled off with my meter leads attached.

Edit: I don't think the meter charged the capacitor through the relay- I believe the capacitor had some residual voltage on it from when the frig was running 2 days ago- I shorted the terminals together and checked it-the capacitor was dead on the money 12 micro farads. After doing the capacitance test the capacitor had charged up a very minute amount of voltage- like .1 volt.

I will update when I get the new start relay and verify the repair.

Well, so much for that. The start device did NOT fix anything and is doing the same thing as before. I also ohm tested the new part and there is no continuity between the terminals on the new one either. I said there was no heavy rattling when shaken, the new one has the same light tick as I said the old one did. I was told there should be continuity between two of the terminals that plug into the compressor and that was obviously not the case for this part. Thanks for making sure I blew 50.00 of my hard earned money though. I really appreciate being pushed over and over to buy a part from you guys that was not needed!!!!

Frig still broken.

Yeah, it's hard to find knowledgeable help these days. If I had access to the wiring diagram I could have diagnosed it and saved time and money. I assumed you knew how to diagnose this start relay and were aware of what terminals go where on the inside of the device. Obviously that is not the case. The terminals you said should have 4-5 ohms would only have that reading if the device was powered and the relay contacts were closed. I have been working on electrical circuits since being trained in the military in 1985.

How does the information I suggested indicate the relay is bad? I stated there was no loud rattling- the new device has the same tiny tick when shaken- and I gave my resistance testing results- which don't indicate a faulty device as the new device has the same readings.

Since when are opened electrical parts returnable?

The information below is directly from the service manual published by the manufacturer. That is what I based my diagnosis on.

Okay, well anyway, I just wanted to let you know you can return that part and show you how the manufacturers (all of them) recommend testing the PTC relays. I hope you have a great evening.