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RUsum1  
#1931 Posted : Friday, July 26, 2013 7:55:39 AM(UTC)
RUsum1

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What is a possible problem if the three common ones listed here don't solve it? I changed my defrost timer (not sure if the old one was even bad but I still have it), I know for a fact that my defrost heater is working properly because when I turned the timer it got hot, and I just changed the defrost thermostat hoping that will solve it. But if for some reason that doesn't fix it, what's another option?

There is no ice blocking the passage from the freezer to the fridge (I poured hot water to melt it away so it's completely clear again).
peterg99  
#1932 Posted : Saturday, August 3, 2013 1:44:14 PM(UTC)
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Same situation with a Whirlpool gx2fhdvy04 - freezer is fine, refrigerator too warm. What baffles me is that the hinge seal on the French door ( a flat narrow panel that turns flat to join and seal the side doors) is almost hot to touch. Where is the heat coming from???
richappy  
#1933 Posted : Sunday, August 4, 2013 1:01:40 AM(UTC)
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You have a hot yoder loop that is caused by a bad condensing fan motor or clogged condenser in the back.
jwa95ta  
#1934 Posted : Monday, August 19, 2013 5:41:07 PM(UTC)
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I followed the steps at the beginning of this thread, and determined my thermostat was bad. In fact the plastic part had bulged out of the back of it.

I have the new one in and I did hear it enter the defrost mode when I turned the knob on the timer. I didnt hear it as loud as I usually do, but the dishwasher was running at the time too.

How long before all the frost has cleared out enough so that the air can circulate again to the refrigerator? I don't feel much difference yet. Do I need to defrost it more?

Where could I see the portion of the refrigerator that allows the cold air to move from the freezer to be absolutely certain that is whats causing the trouble? The coils were really frozen up good though.


Thank you for any assistance.

Jason
jrdean  
#1935 Posted : Wednesday, August 21, 2013 12:46:06 AM(UTC)
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Same problem as the rest. I have removed back panel inside the freezer and the coil is frozen over / hard freeze. Freezer temp is around 0 F but the Fridge temp is 47 F. I removed the defrost Thermostat and checked it and it tests fine. Also checked air flow from freezer and the path is clear and air is moving through the vent. I would like to test the defrost timer but not sure where to find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I am having trouble locating parts due to the age of the unit.

Thanks in advance,
Jamie Dean
GE Model TFF24RTG Side by Side.
jrdean  
#1936 Posted : Wednesday, August 21, 2013 6:02:44 PM(UTC)
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Update: I found the Defrost Timer and with Gene's earlier post was able to test it. It is the problem. I found one on ******** from a service about 60 miles away.. So I manually made the defrost timer thaw the coils and it is at 34.4F with freezer at or below 0F .. I will do a 30 min manual defrost 2twice a day till the part gets here Friday... If Gene reads this Thanks for the forum and thanks for the great advice..

Jamie Dean
zukkev  
#1937 Posted : Friday, August 30, 2013 1:10:53 AM(UTC)
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Hello Gene,
Just got home from work to a warm fridge...again...
We have also been experiencing a cold freezer/warm fridge issue the last few weeks. I did replace the Defrost heater/thermostat assembly due to open heater elements, along with the defrost timer as these were the most common failure items, and were really inexpensive! Got everything together, and when I initially plugged the fridge back in and turned it on, the compressor did not start, but I did hear the 'sizzling' from the heating coils, which told me the heaters were now working! But I also screwed with the setting on the timer to get the compressor and fans to kick on...Fast forward a week, and we have a warm fridge again...And frosted up coils/back panel. On the advice earlier in this section, I just adjusted the timer to start the defrost mode which shuts off the compressor (this is normal?) while in defrost mode, which I did again hear the sizzling' start...Sure enough after a period of time the compressor and fans started running again, so I guess we'll see if my original messing with the timer is why the thing frosted up again (I am assuming I should not have messed with it in the fiirst place????)! There is a ton of good info in here, and as a result is now in my 'favorites'! Thank you again for this forum! Will keep you posted on my findings...
zukkev  
#1938 Posted : Friday, August 30, 2013 8:42:53 AM(UTC)
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Well, this morning, it does not cool on the fridge side, and seems to be getting warmer on the freezer side...We are checking its temp now. :( We have replaced the defrost heaters/stat assy, and the timer... Still freezing up at the cooling coils... I can hear the 'sizzle' when forced to defrost mode using the timer. Model#CSX22KAXA Hotpoint sidebyside...
richappy  
#1939 Posted : Saturday, August 31, 2013 1:25:25 AM(UTC)
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Did you replace the defrost thermostat 5303918214
lucasaltic  
#1940 Posted : Saturday, August 31, 2013 6:02:05 AM(UTC)
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Hi all, I'm having this problem with a bit of a twist. Model is fgus2642lf0. It's a Frigidaire side-by-side with the temp controls on the front freezer door. Just purchased this from a prominent online want-add website as a replacement for a unit who's compressor took a dump. Unit is plugged in, loaded, and allowed 24 hours to reach equilibrium. Freezer and fridge temp setpoints are set to 0 F and 33 F respectively. The digital temperature readouts for freezer and fridge are 0 and 33. I placed a thermometer in both the freezer and fridge. Now here's the kicker... the freezer temp on the thermometer shows 0 just like it should but the fridge temp shows 45 and can climb to above 50 if we are opening or closing it a lot. Compressor kicks on and off and does not run continuously. It's almost as if the fridge "thinks" it is at the correct temperature but it's not. It's acting on bad information...

There is a little bit of frost on the vents above the top shelf of the fridge compartment. I first thought it could be a defrost issue, but this would not explain the incorrect temperature reading. Next thought was the thermistor for the fridge section but that almost seems too easy. The frost on the vent made me think that possibly the airflow is being restricted. If it were moving slowly, it would be very cold but just not high enough volume to keep the fridge at temp. If the thermistor were located close to the airflow stream, it would be getting a colder reading than the rest of the fridge. I don't know where the thermistor is located...

Any ideas? Thanks so much in advance.

Luc
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