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Parts for Whirlpool LEN2000KQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

Start by checking the power.
The motor etc. uses half the line (120 volts) but the heating coils require the full 240.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

See the following post it has a wiring diagram as an attachment.
http://forum.appliancepartspros...t.html?highlight=len2000

[COLOR="Blue"]I checked for voltage to the heating coils with the dryer both off and on. There was no voltage going to the heating coils. Should I have a voltage reading there at the heating coils?[/COLOR]
A lot depends on how/where you are measuring.

[COLOR="Blue"]Could I have a bad switch or control?[/COLOR]
Yes.
The safest way to check for it is to unplug the unit and use resistance.
Use your most sensitive resistance scale. Also short the meter leads together before starting, This will tell you that the meter is working and also if there is any zero offset.
One way is to measure across the components in the heater circuit.
Another way is to attach one meter lead to L1 (black) and leave it there.
Set the timer to mid scale of a heating cycle type.
The red side of Timer Switch 2 should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the Thermal Cutoff should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the Operating Thermostat should be 0 ohms.
Both side of the Hi Limit Thermostat should be 0 ohms
One side of the Heater should be 0 ohms, the other side should be about 10 ohms.
There you now have measured everything in the heater circuit other than the centrifugal switch on the motor.

[COLOR="Blue"]If so, which one?[/COLOR]
See above.

Note that if the Thermal Cutoff is blown get back to us as there are other things you should check before replacing it.

You may want to do the following

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)

Part number: AP3094244