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Charlie Z  
#21 Posted : Wednesday, January 23, 2013 4:42:20 AM(UTC)
Charlie Z

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I've tried this connection and it didn't work is it possible that I need to separate the 2 red cables that use to be connected on the N terminal and split it between terminals P2 and 2 in the new switch, if yes please tell me which cable goes to which terminal
Gene  
#22 Posted : Wednesday, January 23, 2013 12:43:12 PM(UTC)
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Hi Charlie,

I would start from determining which wire where goes on the stove. Which wire is In and which wire is Out. The picture of the old switch you posted is not very clear.

Gene.
fyao  
#23 Posted : Thursday, January 31, 2013 7:09:20 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Turn the power off before you do it.

Gene.


Gene, Joe, and all who have helped:
For the 6 inch single burner (right rear burner for J/A cooktop CVE3401B) I purchased part #74011242. It is easy to replace and there is no problem for the screw holes. Finally, we are done.
Thank you all.
Fyao
Charlie Z  
#24 Posted : Thursday, January 31, 2013 11:51:07 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hi Charlie,

I would start from determining which wire where goes on the stove. Which wire is In and which wire is Out. The picture of the old switch you posted is not very clear.

Gene.


Red cable goes to terminal N on the old switch
Black Cable goes to terminal 2 on the old switch
Orange cable goes to terminal 5 on the old switch
Violet cable goes to terminal 4 on the old switch
Blue cable goes to terminal 3 on the old switch

I upload an image of the original circuit somewhere in this post you can see the circuit of the replacement switch, if you can't find it I'll scan it and upload it.

thanks in advance for your help

Charlie
Charlie Z attached the following image(s):
Circuit.jpg
Gene  
#25 Posted : Thursday, January 31, 2013 5:54:42 PM(UTC)
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Hi Charlie,

The Red wire (N terminal from L2 on the LF switch) should go to the P2.
The Red wire from the element goes to 2.
The Black wire (terminal 2) goes to P1.
The Orange wire (terminal 5) goes to S2.
The Violet wire (terminal 4) goes to 4a.
The Blue wire (terminal 3) goes to 4.

Gene.
Patton001  
#26 Posted : Thursday, December 26, 2013 12:01:20 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: mikecarter Go to Quoted Post
I have a Jenn Air CCE3531W and just replaced the dual infinite burner switch. The replacement part# is 12002125. The directions that came with the replacement were poor at best. After about 9 attempts I finally figured out the wiring. It is as follows:
Jumper wire supplied with new switch hooks to P1 and S1.

Double red wires must be separated and a new spade clip put on the one that comes from the inner RR burner. Put the red wire from LF switch on P2, and the red wire with the new spade clip on 2.

Gray wire from the burner on indicator light goes on S2.

Purple wire from outer part of burner goes to 4A.

Blue wire from outer part of burner goes to 4.

When completed, you will have to put a small piece of folded paper in the knob to shim it up to keep it from rubbing on the glass surface.


What did you do with the single black wire? I am working on the same unit
msj6897  
#27 Posted : Wednesday, April 23, 2014 7:32:45 PM(UTC)
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Followed your wiring instructions to the letter and the switch blew up and blew my circuit breaker.
msj6897  
#28 Posted : Wednesday, April 23, 2014 8:06:47 PM(UTC)
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Had red wires reversed.. Are you sure the gray wire goes to s2. My gray wire is a compound connection going to LF switch L1 and out to main power black.
rogerjackson  
#29 Posted : Monday, March 7, 2016 4:54:53 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hi Charlie,

The Red wire (N terminal from L2 on the LF switch) should go to the P2.
The Red wire from the element goes to 2.
The Black wire (terminal 2) goes to P1.
The Orange wire (terminal 5) goes to S2.
The Violet wire (terminal 4) goes to 4a.
The Blue wire (terminal 3) goes to 4.

Gene.

Hi Gene, I Have Jenn-air CVE3400W, The diagram and picture of the original switch provided by Charlie is similar to mine. I think I almost get it by following your instruction. One last question: Do I still need to jumper P1 and S1? your help is greatly appreciated. ( I wanna be sure before attaching the switch, I already destroyed one).

PS: I asked a "service man" in our area, He never bothered to open the appliance and told me he will come back for the price of the switch and heating element which he suggested better buying new electric "cheaper". never came back been 5 months now. I tested, the element are good, original switch literally fractured.
Whipmeister  
#30 Posted : Monday, May 28, 2018 2:26:55 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hi Charlie,

The Red wire (N terminal from L2 on the LF switch) should go to the P2.
The Red wire from the element goes to 2.
The Black wire (terminal 2) goes to P1.
The Orange wire (terminal 5) goes to S2.
The Violet wire (terminal 4) goes to 4a.
The Blue wire (terminal 3) goes to 4.

Gene.


OK. Having just been through this puzzle and realizing that pictures are worth way more than 10,000 words, I thought I'd offer this. This is my experience from our JennAir CCE3400W cooktop and replacing the old style dual-burner switch with the new one that is commonly shipped as a replacement.

[LIST=1]
  • You *DO* have to split the joined red wires and add a female spade connnector to the cut wire.
  • Be aware that wire colors change over time. The 'Blue' wire had turned green, etc.
  • The symptom I had when I had done everything right EXCEPT split the red wire was all burners but the dual-burner worked. It got voltage but simply didn't heat up. Either ring.
    [/LIST]

    Everything now works as it should. I went ahead and replaced all 4 switches.

    The aforementioned pics are attached. Hope this helps.
    Whipmeister attached the following image(s):
    20180528_161157.jpg
    20180528_161028.jpg
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