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Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.
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Gene  
#341 Posted : Monday, April 6, 2009 3:40:36 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: tjl Go to Quoted Post
...I have done manual defrost twice and am convinced that [COLOR="Navy"]the problem is with the defrost control[/COLOR]. I have been wondering how to remove the back panel of the freezer?...


The defrost controls by the main control board (#801 on the diagram) which is on the back of the refrigerator. You do not have to remove the back panel in the freezer in such case.

- The part number for the main control board is AP4297272

Gene.
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tjl  
#342 Posted : Monday, April 6, 2009 5:35:30 PM(UTC)
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Gene,

Thanks for your kind help. I didn't make it clear when I mention defrost control. I should have said one of the component in the defrost system, main control board, thermostat, or defrost heater is broken. Now if in my case is one of the latter two, how to remove the back panel? Some step by step instructions with pictures will be best for me since I never worked on fridges before.

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
The defrost controls by the main control board (#801 on the diagram) which is on the back of the refrigerator. You do not have to remove the back panel in the freezer in such case.

- The part number for the main control board is AP4297272

Gene.
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Gene  
#343 Posted : Monday, April 6, 2009 7:42:34 PM(UTC)
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Did you check the defrost circuit from the control board as described on page 3 of this thread (addressed to [COLOR="Red"]bohemian[/COLOR])? If you did, what is the result?

Gene.
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tjl  
#344 Posted : Tuesday, April 7, 2009 6:07:30 PM(UTC)
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Not yet. Seems I didn't read the instructions on page 3 carefully. I have thought that I need to remove the back panel to do the test. :) Will do this weekend.
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tjl  
#345 Posted : Friday, April 10, 2009 11:56:29 AM(UTC)
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Gene,

I just checked the wires on the control board. I tried to remove the blue wire on J9 but found it's pretty hard to do it. What I did was to remove the J7 connector, measure the resistance between pin 9 and J7 (with the blue wire connected). The circuit was open when the freezer is cold. The resistance between J8 and pin 9 on J7 is 3.8 ohms. I also tried J11 and the reading of about 100 appeared for a second and then infinity. What can you conclude from such information?

Thanks!

TJL

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Did you check the defrost circuit from the control board as described on page 3 of this thread (addressed to bohemian)? If you did, what is the result?

Gene.
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Gene  
#346 Posted : Friday, April 10, 2009 12:58:47 PM(UTC)
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You have to remove the rear cover (#241 on the diagram) to check the defrost heater (#230) and the defrost thermostat (#240) for continuity. Just remove the screws holding the cover and pull it out.

Gene.
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tjl  
#347 Posted : Sunday, April 12, 2009 3:07:40 PM(UTC)
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I removed the back panel today as instructed by Gene. The continuity test on the heater turned out to be open. The thermostat showed a low resistance (<1, freezer cold). I am pretty sure now the defrost heater is burned. I remember in another post somebody said both thermostat and the heater need to be changed. Do I have to change both?
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woodchuckie  
#348 Posted : Sunday, April 12, 2009 4:13:49 PM(UTC)
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If it's working you don't have to replace it. Maybe some would replace it while they have the back cover off any way.
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Schweeky  
#349 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 12:26:49 PM(UTC)
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I have found & replaced the defrost heater. Where is the defrost timer located for model #FRS26ZRGWC? This site does not have a schematic available. Thanks!
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Gene  
#350 Posted : Monday, April 13, 2009 12:40:56 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Schweeky Go to Quoted Post
I have found & replaced the defrost heater. Where is the defrost timer located for model #FRS26ZRGWC? This site does not have a schematic available. Thanks!


What is the original problem with your refrigerator?

The defrost timer is shown as #23 on the "controls" diagram.

Gene.
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