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Originally Posted by: richappy  Sometimes vibration will shake loose a connector or a connector pin. Just check all of them.
Also, others have pried loose the relay tops on the control board, cleaned the contacts, glued back the tops, and found the washer worked fine. Try and reply to all threads with door latch problems with this solution!!! I may have bought a door latch assembly by mistake. But I may have avoided making a bigger mistake by buying a control module if it weren't for your post. When I checked the connections, I found a loose connection. Works fine now. Thank you very much!!!:) :)
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Thank's for the feedback.
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Well, the problem still continues as I'm right now paying $345 to get my washer fixed. Apparently Sears doesn't care about the products they are selling. After spending this money, there is only a 3 month warranly on the board.
Shame on Sears with so many people complaing about this. Will not buy an applicance from them again.
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Had F11 error code on my washer for about last 6 months. Checked all connections now all I get is --- dashed lines and washer will not operated
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What is the complete model number of the washer?
Gene.
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After 6 years of flawless service I'm now getting F11 code. Washer starts to fill and after a few seconds the code appears. Door seems to latch okay but tub does not start to turn. Is there any way to narrow down the F11 code? I've already taken the top off and checked for loose connections but have not opened the CCU cover as yet. I live in the Cayman Islands where parts are not cheap, are often not in stock, and are usually not returnable. I'm an advanced do-it-yourselfer and am willing to get my hands dirty. I have a soldering iron and supplies if re-soldering connections is worth a try. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
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Originally Posted by: lbodden After 6 years of flawless service I'm now getting F11 code. Washer starts to fill and after a few seconds the code appears. Door seems to latch okay but tub does not start to turn. Is there any way to narrow down the F11 code? I've already taken the top off and checked for loose connections but have not opened the CCU cover as yet. I live in the Cayman Islands where parts are not cheap, are often not in stock, and are usually not returnable. I'm an advanced do-it-yourselfer and am willing to get my hands dirty. I have a soldering iron and supplies if re-soldering connections is worth a try. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. You may want to review the solutions offered by maxd (page 2), savage26 (page 3) and daabs (page 4). Gene.
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Well, as fate would have it, my sister's Duet washer died this week with a drum/tub issue and I was able to scavenge it for parts. As luck would have it, her CCU board was the same as mine so I swapped it out and now my washer works. I may try to replace all the relays on my old CCU board and see if I can get it to work again. Of course I now have a lot of other spare parts, all of which are in excellent condition. Thanks for all the tips and info from other users in this forum.
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I have a Whirlpool Duet model GHW9150PW4 washer that consistantly throws the F11 code, I tried the "fix" resoldering, and all that, to no prevail. I have "fixed" a Kenmore and another Whirlpool using the methods. this ones being a pain. I broke down and ordered a new CCU (8182695) from Sears ($152), installed it and absolutly no change in operation. Ran the self test gets to C:01 and faults F11. in rinse spin setting it will run water then F11, Drain spin drains and F11. Question is whats the next step, wiring harness? MCU? Motor? other than the diagnostic self test is there a way to test MCU and the motor? have not seen any other codes other than the F11.
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I'm no expert and was lucky to get the CCU to fix my washer at no cost from my sister's broken washer. I hope you are able to return the part to Sears. If you have checked for loose connections, I would guess the MCU is next. It sucks to have to spend so much money on parts without being able to be absolutely sure of the part that's needed.
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