Exact same problem as everyone else. Already spent $175 on a bellows and door lock switch. NOW I need to spend another $150 on a CCU.....extremely disappointed in this product, will without a doubt be the last time I spend money with this manufacturer.
In 3 years i have spent 1/4 of the purchase price on repairs.....glad they don't make cars.......

The above sounds like our experiences and we may have stumbled upon a solution; at least it has run for a little over 10 days without a single beep (knocking on wood and fervently hoping not to tempt fate; no superstition here, but a little twitchy on this machine !).

Have replaced door switch, 2 CCU's, and 1 MCU, all to no avail. Did lots of wire wiggling with machine top removed for months. Last cycle before repair was four failures in one cycle. Okay getting to the chase.

Because of the repeating communications error code (F11), spoke at length with customer service trying to locate the main wiring harness for this machine, but it was not affiliated with this model number (Kenmore Elite HE4t). Picked a Whirlpool Duet number off another suppliers site and tried it here with a hit. The main wiring harness is Whirlpool 8182212 which translates to AP3764456 on this site. The harness (with tax and freight is less than $160.00, considerably less than competitors) takes about 45 minutes to install and all plugs can only go into the correct receptacle. There is a ground wire that goes to the back of the machine needing removal of back panel; in our situation that would entail removal of dryer and a big production, hence I spliced the ground wires together with a wire nut and electrical tape. So far this wiring harness has solved the performance issues completely, and I recommend doing this before replacing computer boards.

It is my opinion that part of the problems are due to shaking of the machine during spin cycle. Our machine is mounted on a pedestal and was levelled to a gnat's eyebrow, but would still shake to an alarming degree. I shored up the floor under the laundry with pier blocks and a 4X6 beam so the floor was solid; still shaking. Maddening. In disgust, while I was installing wire harness, I removed the drawer (2 screws on slides at front of drawer area) and using a 1/4 inch ratchet, backed the feet off all the way into the frame and snugged them down. The machine now feels solid although a bit off level and no longer shakes the house when spinning. In fact it is a quiet as it has ever been. One wonders if the shaking compounds the communication errors. So here we are with a functioning washing machine again, poorer but wiser. Good Luck in your efforts, try the wiring harness first.

Thanks for the reply Ex-Sears Tech. I spoke too soon about the wiring harness effectiveness. We are now back to 2+ failures per cycle although it has restarted without our having to open up the top.

Pretty disgusted with this machine and my ineffectiveness in getting it to run without problem. Unless someone has a different suggestion; (I mean what else is left? 2 CCU and 1 MCU replaced, door latch replaced, main wiring harness replaced, and it still gives F-11 error codes or dashed lines on the display when new components installed. Sheesh!) I will change my suggestion to save your money for a replacement machine. We bought the machine used with an extended warranty but Sears only uses the original (lost) phone number to track warranty instead of the S/N.

I am considering a commercial grade front loader, or an HE top loader, but find Whirlpool involved in home grade top loaders. Water efficiency is important here so HE is pretty much mandatory. Do any have insight or suggestions? How about a recommendation to a reliable machine ?

Sorry for the disgruntled-ness. I've spent in excess of $600.00 on this thing to no avail. Be forewarned. Good luck in your efforts.

We've had our first FdL error code after owning our Whirlpool Duet front loader trouble free for a number of years. This machine literally has done 3 loads a day excepting weekends for that entire time which translates into thousands of dependable wash loads. (Wife is massage therapist.)

I read this thread, pulled the diagnostics paperwork from under the machine and ran them, the complaint being that the door latch solenoid does not latch to start the load. It passed (and latched) during the diagnostic C:00. Since then the machine has run one load normally with no additional failures. We'll see.

Deano K.
Beaverton, OR

Take top of washer off.Theres 2 nuts on back(easy).Fold a 1/4 sheet of regular writing paper roughly 5 times.You can test the thickness in a minute.looking in the top of the washer youll 5 pink wires on the right side.Each one of these is a plug and are not real electrified so its ok to touch.Take this paper and you want just enough thickness to slide above the 2 rt hand side pink wires.you kind of lodge it in there .this should solve the problem.if its till acts up just make a little thicker slide it in deeper and try agn.If you have a problem,wiggling and actually pulling out these 2 pink wires,then plug them back in and then add the paper.Thissl force the wires to a tighter fit.Mines been working for 9 months now with only 2 screwups.I do wash daily.If it messes up take paper out wiggle wires up/down and then put paper back in.Let me know .Thanks Damon