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The temperature in the kitchen appears to be about 72 F. and the outdoor temperature about 64 F. It is now midnight. Last week the reported temperature reached 100. I forgot to read the thermometer at that time, but I doubt it passed 95 because of the trees here. The hmidity was quite high until the storms passed Sunday evening. The max humidity reported Sunday was 93% (airport) with a corresponding low temp about 62 F. by the bar chart.
The gaskets have some black mildew staining, but they seem to lie flat when the doors are closed, and there is no cold draft. The doors sometimes do not close properly if they bump against something, but I do not think it happens every day, and the ice seems to come back every day.
Thanks, Gene
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The cause of the problem you described, most likely is a frozen up condensation created by very high humidity and interference between cold air inside the fridge and very warm air outside. I don't think it has something to do with the fridge itself.
You can check the door gaskets, using a dollar bill. Put it in a different spots between the door gasket and door frame and close the door. If the bill stays firm, the gasket is good.
Gene.
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Gene,
We have an Amana SBD20S4E that seems to have a somewhat similar issue. I had started another thread, "Amana Refrigerator/Freezer Problem", on which I posted a picture last evening.
A month or so ago I noticed that the ice cream was getting soft. Did not really notice a change in the refrigerator temp, but it was probably getting gradually warmer. We called a tech out to check the unit as I was out of town. His diagnosis was it was either a low on coolant or the compressor was bad. I agreed for him to recharge the system. Two weeks later, the same condition was noticed. Recalled the tech and he said he probably overcharged the system....
I asked him about the defrost circuits and he said that he didn't see anything wrong with it.
So here we are two weeks later and the unit is once again frozen solid.
I read your initial post about checking the defrost timer, but do not see it listed in the diagrams for the SBD20S4E. There is a "control adaptive-defrost" AP4009935, but that appears to be just a circuit board with no adjustment.
I've searched the diagrams for timer, defrost, and control, but come up with nothing.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Dave
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Hi Dave, The Adaptive Defrost Control board controls the defrost cycle. Denman in the other thread, created by you, provided complete instructions for you. Looks like you are on the right track. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for getting back to me. I placed an order for the board this morning. I ran the continuity checks on the defrost heater and thermostat and found them good according to my meter. I ran the live voltage checks on the adaptive control board, which indicated appropriate line voltage. I thoroughly defrosted the unit and restarted then found it warm this morning, no frost. The condenser seems to be short cycling. If the new board does not resolve the issue, it looks like we'll be getting a new refrigerator....
Thanks again.
Dave
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Originally Posted by: Gene Thanks Gene, I set the controls just as you suggested elsewhere, and sure enough the fridge cooled down. I have just received the defrost heater so I hope get that put in this weekend. The installed one was interwoven behind the spot welds for the evap. coils so I had to cut one end of the power wire. I am assuming that the replacement will be able to be installed on the front side of the coils? Thanks again for you help. Tom Valley
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Rank: Member
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Gene,
Thank you so much for your advise. The defrost heater took about 30 mins. to install. I manually triggered the defrost timer and it works great. We saved the landlord a bunch of bucks because the delivery cost in bush Alaska is unbelievable. Kudos!
Tom Valley
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are welcome Tom. I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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Joined: 6/29/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Hi Gene--First let me say how much I appreciate all of the information you've provided throughout these threads. It has helped so much. We have a 15 year old Kenmore Model 363.9565412. Started experiencing warm fridge syndrome. We diagnosed defrost system problem and after manually advancing defrost time the heater came on. We have replaced defrost timer, but after manually defrosting everything yesterday, putting in the timer, and leaving everything on overnight, the fridge was still not below 60 degrees this morning, and freezer was about 24. The evaporator coils are not frosted evenly--they frost heavily at bottom but it didn't spread to very top even after being on all night. I've attached a picture (I did have freezer off again for about 30 min. this morning, and this is about 2.5 hours of time back on). We are getting ready to test thermostat, but after reading through here, I'm suspecting a compressor or freon problem. What do you think? Thanks so much. Bruce Lenny_Lucky attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Hi Bruce,
According to all instructions, you have to wait about 24 hours after manually defrosting the fridge or after any temperature control adjustments. Your fridge is really slow due to age and design.
It is very important for proper air flow to place the rear panel inside the freezer and the rear cover for the machine compartment back in place. Did you do it?
Gene.
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