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No sizzle sound after rotating defrost timer, and continuity good, closed circuit. Condenser still icing up, and fridge to warm 45 deg F.
I replaced the thermostat, and the defrost timer, problem still exists.
I just order a new defrost heater, as the total spent on parts thus far is well under 2 hours of a service persons time.
I am making the assumption that the heater is not getting hot, even though it has continuity.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Hi Nancy, 1. What was the condition of the evaporator coils before you defrosted it? The coils were covered with frost (snow) and some of the lower part of the cover over the coils. After turning the system completely off for the night it defrosted nicely. Turned it back on in the morning and Small fan over the coils was running fine. 2. I'm afraid I did not get clear what did you meant "after readings"? If you meant that you did enter the diagnostics mode then what was the reading for each step? This is the most important part. "After Readings" are the number I got after doing the diagnostic test instructions you sent me. I don't remember anything about "each step". I thought is was just pressing the Select & Power buttons. Please reseand the "steps" you are referring to. 3. Did the compressor come on later or was it was silent for all that "half of the day"? I guess you would say quiet. I could tell it was running but not hard. I then turned it off for the rest of the day so I could put things back together and or course after I did all this and turned it back on, it stated beeping again. Turned it off and went to bed ! Then today I thought I'd try again and it went on without a hitch, no noise and the fan that is in the top portion of the set up was running like crazy, no bad noises. I'm turning it off again. No frost build up in the freezer yet. I could feel a little bit of air coming from one of the vents from the freezer. Does it sound like my problem was just a fluke or should I keep doing the tests you give me ? I'll get a new water filter but if is doesn't work and I get the leak again, I'll be back for help, but in the meantime I'll just buy a bag of ice. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP. I'M SURE MYSELF AS WELL AS THOSE OTHER WHO POST HERE ARE VERY THANKFUL TO HAVE YOU AVAILABLE TO HELP US ! ..........NANCY;) 4. Kitchen Aid is the division of Whirlpool, that's why all parts made by Whirlpool. Everything was quiet for that part of the day ! 5. The new water filter has the instructions on the box. Also, such instructions can be found in the Owner's guide. - The water filter Part number: 4396510
6. Probably not unless it's cracked. More likely it can be a bad water line, a bad water inlet valve or a bad filter housing. All these parts have to be inspected to determine exactly which one is bad. Gene. See my postings below above area of concern. I'm still having a problem with how to use this site. I've typed quite a bit of information for you but when I tried to send it I was told it was "too short" ?
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Originally Posted by: rosezhang2000 1. ...I left the freezer door open for some time before I took off the rear panel...
2. ...What's a seal problem?...
3. ...Is it ok to run the fridge without the rear panel?...
Hi Rose, 1. The major purpose of that picture is to let me see what is the condition of the evaporator coils. Your mistake is that you broke the real picture by letting the coils to defrost. You have to run the refrigerator for a few more days to see how it'll perform. 2. Did I say "seal"? The sealed system is in a simple words "cooling system" which includes compressor, evaporator, condenser, tubes, a few other parts and Freon. 3. Absolutely Not. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: tcvalley Gene,
Maytag side by side RSW24EODAB
I have been following this thread and I hope I am not beating a dead horse: cold freezer warm fridge. It must be very frustrating to have people ask the same question over and over. My question is a little different I think. I ascertained by following your troubleshooting that the defroster heater is bad. When I removed it one of the elements was broken. I have ordered a new one. Now here is my question: I have defrosted the evap coils and checked for obstructions into the fridge compartment, and found none but the fridge still doesn't seem to be cooling well. How long should we expect it to take for it to cool to recommended temp once the unit has been unplugged for a few hours? Otherwise I can't come up with a good reason that the fridge doesn't cool. It seems poor efficency to just let the cool air build up in the freezer and ooze over into the fridge. wouldn't using a fan to blow it there be more efficient?
Thanks for all your patient hard work.
Tom Valley Hi Tom, You have to wait about 24 hours after the fridge was defrosted or after any temperature controls adjustments. How did you set the temperature controls? Did you clean the condenser coils? Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Maytag RSW24E0DAB REF - SXS/I&W | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Originally Posted by: on_mitch No sizzle sound after rotating defrost timer, and continuity good, closed circuit. Condenser still icing up, and fridge to warm 45 deg F.
I replaced the thermostat, and the defrost timer, problem still exists.
I just order a new defrost heater, as the total spent on parts thus far is well under 2 hours of a service persons time.
I am making the assumption that the heater is not getting hot, even though it has continuity.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated. What is the complete model number of the refrigerator? What is the temperature in the freezer? Does the fan in the freezer work properly? Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hi Rose,
1. The major purpose of that picture is to let me see what is the condition of the evaporator coils. Your mistake is that you broke the real picture by letting the coils to defrost. You have to run the refrigerator for a few more days to see how it'll perform.
2. Did I say "seal"? The sealed system is in a simple words "cooling system" which includes compressor, evaporator, condenser, tubes, a few other parts and Freon.
3. Absolutely Not.
Gene. Hi Gene, There was huge frost buildup on the rear panel, even the screws were all covered up. That was why I decided to let it defrost a bit. The idea of taking a picture came to me when I couldn't identify the parts in the defrost system. I was going to do the test as you described in your first post. I'm pretty sure it's the defrost problem because each time after I defrost the fridge by turning it off and opening the freezer door (is there any other way to defrost manually?), it's running very well for a few days. The temperature in the freezer is around -19 degree C, and around 2 degree C in the other half. So here comes my original questions: 1. Is it possible that my model doesn't have a defrost timer? 2. How do I replace the heater if necessary? Thank you so much for your help! Rose
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Originally Posted by: Gene In order to remove the rear cover inside the freezer you have to remove all shelves and the ice maker first. The defrost timer is located inside the control box. - The defrost heater Part number: 2323197
- The defrost thermostat Part number: 2321799
Rose, Did you see this post which was posted on 6/15? Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Rose,
Did you see this post which was posted on 6/15?
Gene. Yes, I did! But I couldn't find the thermostat anywhere in my freezer.
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Sorry, I missed the control box part. Where is the control box?
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Originally Posted by: rosezhang2000 Sorry, I missed the control box part. Where is the control box? The control box is where all controls are - inside the refrigerator, on top of it. The defrost thermostat is on top of the evaporator coils, inside the freezer, behind the rear panel. Gene.
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